My new barn / tractor shed

[QRTRHRS]

The roof was installed today and we would have finished the walls but the rat seal didn't come in with the rest of the material. Here are some more photos including the "double bubble insulation" installed under the metal roof.

Glad to see you used the bubble wrap. My motto is "don't build without it"!

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting how some people don't realize that there is no topsoil in some areas. Cut the grass low and start building is all you have to do if the area is already flat and level. The reason for removing the top soil is because it does not compact. Grass will never cause any issues when built upon because it wont settle or decompose to a noticable degree over time. Removing it would just be an added expense without any advantage.

Eddie

 

[SixHoeBob]

Interesting how some people don't realize that there is no topsoil in some areas. Cut the grass low and start building is all you have to do if the area is already flat and level. The reason for removing the top soil is because it does not compact. Grass will never cause any issues when built upon because it wont settle or decompose to a noticable degree over time. Removing it would just be an added expense without any advantage.

Eddie

Around here we have topsoil 4"-8" thick, sometimes a lot more more.
If there is not any topsoil, I suppose time should not be spent trying to strip it.

Post 11 - There looks to be two different colors of soil. The soil with the roots in it that is on top, I would strip it. I get paid by the hour. If I can add more steps to a project, I can charge for more hours. Next I would fill in the area stripped with shale and 2a modified. Then I would find a place to use the excavated soil.

Why is the dump truck making ruts while spreading the stones?
The vegetation alone is 1" - 2" thick. I would have scraped that off with the
Bobcat.

I could have added thousands to the cost of the project.:ashamed:

 

[AGGIE00]

Concrete poured on top of top of topsoil and vegetation does make me go huh, but I'm sure there are construction techniques I used that others may disagree with. What I'm more curious about is why there are no beams in the slab. How do you keep a 4" slab together that is poured on uncompacted topsoil with vegetation with only wire mesh for reinforcement? It may hold together fine, but I can't possibly see how. I know I work in a different part of the country and am curious if this works.

 

[EddieWalker]

Why is the dump truck making ruts while spreading the stones?
The vegetation alone is 1" - 2" thick. I would have scraped that off with the
Bobcat

I can only guess, but ruts in soil have nothing to do with topsoil. I've driven across very organic soil without leaving any sing, and I've been burried to my axles in clean fill that wasn't compacted and a little wet.

The interesting thing about this site is that things are done differently all over the country, depenind on soil, weather and code. I've been on jobs in CA where we had to go down 20 feet for footings, but never took off any top soil or vegitation. All the inspector checked was the depth of the holes. And this was near the coast, where temps rarely get below freezing and frost heave isn't even thought about.

Eddie

 

[Uncle Wayne]

Why is the dump truck making ruts while spreading the stones?

We had almost 2 inches of rain the night before the gravel arrived. I was worried he might not even get to the area where I needed the gravel. I had two 24 ton loads of gravel delivered for this job. Most of the second load, if not all, will be spread under my side lean-tos where most of my equipment will be stored.

I've never been in any other part of the country doing constructing work like this but this is the way it's done in North Alabama. Unless, like you admitted, the contractor wants to pad the cost of the job.

I can show you at least a dozen slabs, a couple 12 years old, that were done the same way mine was done without any problems. I won't have any either.

 

[Uncle Wayne]

What I'm more curious about is why there are no beams in the slab. How do you keep a 4" slab together that is poured on uncompacted topsoil with vegetation with only wire mesh for reinforcement?

I'm not sure I understand your question. "Beams" in the slab? Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by that.

I had the option to have fiber mixed in the concrete for re-enforcing instead of using the wire mesh. I've had good luck with the wire mesh in the past so i didn't see any need to change on this slab.

When I called the finisher to hire him for my job, he asked if I was going to use wire or fiber for re-enforcing. I asked if he had a preference or which one did he recommend. He said either one would be fine.

 

[MacLawn]

Uncle, I am in similar country here in Georgia, red clay, etc. I think you will be fine.

Man, I do like your building! Almost exactly what I need for my junque, tractor excluded in junque description . My land is sloped, so I am thinking of using fill to bring it up higher than the lowest spot would be.

And, for the 40' slab, did you put in any expansion joints, or the metal key way? You know, kind of defining your cracks before they happen? - That's what metal key way does.
Great looking job!

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm not sure I understand your question. "Beams" in the slab? Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by that..

A Beam in the slab is an extra trench that is dug and looks like a footing that makes the slab a lot stronger. It's not load bearing like a footing, but instead it adds strength to the slab in soils that have extrememe movement. In and around the Dallas area, the soil is famous for how much it moves. From winter when it's wet and then freezes, to summer when it dries out and cracks, the soil can move several inches rather quickly. A standard slab will crack under those conditions. Another reason for a beam is for load carrying of what is parked on top of it. I've seen this done in shops that will work on the big diesel trucks. Making your slab thicker in those areas does the same thing.

The problem with a beam is that it has to have a rebar frame built into it so that it ties into the rest of the slab. The design, spacing and size of the rebar is critical and somehing that I'm not qualified to design. I've seen it done, but have never tried to figure it out myself. Just digging the trench and adding concrete doesn't really accomplish what the beam is supposed to do.

As for fiber or wire, both have their place, but fiber is more for helping with the hairline cracks that occur in concrete. It doesn't give the slab any strength and it does not replace wire or rebar. Some people like to believe it does because it's cheaper, faster and A LOT EASIER. Wire does a great job if it's in the middle of the slab. Unfortunately, it's just about impossible to get it to do this over an entire slab. YOu have to walk on it to spread the concrete, and when you do this, you push it down to the bottom. Pulling it up while working it sort of looks like it works, but it never does. Rebar that is placed on chairs to keep it in the middle of the slab is my favorite method. It's always right, and there is never any doubt. It's more work and more money, but it's worth it in the long run in my opinion.

Eddie

 

[Uncle Wayne]

And, for the 40' slab, did you put in any expansion joints, or the metal key way? You know, kind of defining your cracks before they happen? - That's what metal key way does.
Great looking job!

Thanks. Good luck with your project. I was lucky to have space to move my slab to get the most level grade without hauling in fill.

No, I didn't include any expansion joints or metal key way. My concrete guy said a 40 x 40 slab was the dividing line. I could put them in if I wanted but most didn't. He said anything over that size should have them.