Buying Advice Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing!

   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #111  
can you still get MEK in your area.. that should take it off.. ;)

soundguy
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #112  
I've been wanting a nice Massey 165 for years now. I FINALLY bought one a couple weeks back. '67, gasser (Continental) w/MultiPower and VERY low hours. All it needs is tires, a seat, and some fresh paint. For the last 10 years, the previous owner has used it to pull wagons in and out of his cabinet shop. Those wagons were "drying racks" for laminate counter tops they made. The rear end and fenders have a nice thin coat of contact adhesive overspray..... This ain't gonna be all that much fun.

MEK, maybe Acetone if you want something a little less harsh but still a VOC.
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #113  
can you still get MEK in your area.. that should take it off.. ;)

soundguy



I still have connections at a few vendors I did business with (while still in construction) One is a supplier who handles plastic laminates, cabinet hardware, ect... They're sending me a couple gallons of some sort of solvent (maybe MEK) sold exclusively to clean up contact adhesive....

Or the sand blaster.....;)
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #114  
tough choice.. mek will do it.. but gotta be carefull.

Sb will do it.. but sheesh.. it gets everywhere.. :)

soundguy
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing!
  • Thread Starter
#115  
Spent a good bit of time yesterday taking some things a part and scraping all the thick stuff off. We filled almost 2 5 gallon buckets just from the operators platform and around the loader posts. We started to get in around the fuel tank, but ran out of time. Its really heavy in there. I found the source of what I believe to be the main fluid leak...a cracked cover plate. I'll be ordering a replacement tomorrow, and will replace the plate when I do the fluid change.

One one side of the radiator, the support piece has been broken away. How much of a concern should this be to fix?

I'd like to fix 2 other leaks while I have the fluid drained. One is coming from the loader control valve, and the other is one the bucket. The bucket leak may just need to have the fitting removed, cleaned and tightened down. It looks like its a bit out anyway. Opinions on the control valve? I'm thinking my best bet is to clean it off real well first because the leak could be coming from several spots. But if someone can tell from the pic, it would be nice to order the parts at the same time.

The last pic is of a line next to the brakes. I believe this line attaches to the clutch housing. It looks like its been dented a couple of times. Should this be of any concern for flow rate?
 

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   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #116  
concern? none.. as long as you fix it to suppor the radiator to prevent vibration.. etc.

soundguy
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing!
  • Thread Starter
#117  
concern? none.. as long as you fix it to suppor the radiator to prevent vibration.. etc.

soundguy

What do you recommend as a fix?
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #118  
post a very detailed pic of the damage... my clarivoyance powers are on the blink right now :)
unless you are talking about the piece unsoldered from the tank.. in which case.. that's easy.. it's a re-solder job...


soudnguy
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing!
  • Thread Starter
#119  
Ah solder...duh! Any particular kind I should use? I've never had to work on a radiator before...and really don't want to screw it up with the price tag on a new one of those!
 
   / Bought a farm, looking for a tractor...and help choosing! #120  
stuff you might normally use at a shop is usually the high diameter acid core.. though for that repair the plumbers no-lead solder pack that comes with the paste flux like you see in the lil sweat solder packs at walmart and hardware stores will be fine.

sand or chemically remov ethe rust.. then sand and clean up.. get it bent so under no tension.. flux the bajeebers out of the 2 parts. tin that piece of steel first.. then lightly tin the rad.. keep as much heat away from the seam as toy can.

remove cap so no pressure builds up otherwise it will blow the joint out. I might even leave coolant up to the level of the seam.. flux it up again.. put heat to it and then as soon as it wets.. join and back the heat away, holding the part steady till it dulls over.

just like sweating a pipe...

as for flux.. can't ever have too much. if you think you ever have too much flux on a joint, add a lil mor ethen go for it. flux is your friend when soldering...


soundguy
 

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