ASV Undercarriage design 4500/4810

Bison · Jul 12, 2011

Sounds fine by me,prob what i would do.
Can you PM (or post) the source of the long bolts.?
I think i would have a hard time finding them aftermarket here in Can.

bz1 · Jul 12, 2011

Update:
The long bolts I found were 1/2x13x13", so they are 1/2 inche longer than OEM but it either won't matter or a guy could cut them off. I saw them at a local place, not sure if they mail stuff or not but you can ask. I'll PM the contact info.

Regarding the wear point of the sprocket sleeves. I talked to a guy who sells tracks and seemed to know a lot about these machines. He said that once you get to where the outer sleeves can move out of concentricity by over 1/8 inch they need replacing. He said failure to watch this is one of the key reasons why the second set of tracks on these machines don't las near as long as the first. He says when the sleeves get too worn and sloppy if effectively reduces the pitch diameter of the sprocket. This in turn causes the sleeves not to mesh correctly with the lugs on the rubber track, just like using a sprocket that is too small. This ruins the track lugs faster. I don't remember him saying anything about the limit on outer sleeve OD which would add to this problem. Mine currently measure about 1.350 min. OD while new measure 1.5" OD Note that the dimensions I posted earlier there is only about 0.062 clearance between inner and outer sleeves. Mine now appear to have around 3/32 but I haven't actually measured yet.

In regards to the planetary drives. I talked to an engineer at the company that makes the drive. He sent my the appropriate drawings that show how these are assembled with torques and such. He said there would be no problem taking these apart while still installed on the machine, might have to use a puller to get the hub off the main spindle. If you need these drawings I could send them to you.

Regarding axle seals. I did find a local source for the inner oil seals used on my axles. The part number in my ASV manual allowed them to find them. They are only $4 each compared to $12 from dealer. For outer AP seal (dirt excluder) I found the manufacturer and a local source. Only problem is the ones used by ASV must be special since the OEM are 35x72x19.5 and the only ones standard available are 35x72x12. Unfortunately I forgot to ask price since they were wrong width. Then I got to thinking, do you think one could get by using a 12mm width rather than 19.5mm? I suppose one would have to install a spacer to keep the seal where it's supposed to be. Comments?

I removed my outer bearing support today and removed the sprocket on the side where I have to dissassemble the planetary. Do you know how to remove the round press fit bearing cover on the outer support bearing housing?

bz1 · Jul 14, 2011

Update: I got one sprocket removed and took several inner and outer sleeves off. The inner sleeves are worn out of round of course, the largest OD is 0.95" which is right near either end. The center portions have more wear and measure around 0.85". So I think my idea of installing new outer sleeves with 1.0" ID rather than the OEM 1.032" ID will work fine. The track supplier I mentioned said that the inner sleeves are commonly not replaced but can be rotated to put the wear opposite of where it contacts the tracks, just like is commonly done with dozer track bushings. Rotating them would put the thickest wall against the track. My plan now is to look for some surplus 1.0" ID x 1.5" OD seamless drawn tubing and use my cuttoff saw to make new outer sleeves. I think this will be way cheaper than buying sleeves at $5.15 each. As long as I have this thing apart I'm going to replace them. Still haven't figured out how to get the outer support bearing press fit cover off but I really haven't tried yet either, thoughts?

trailbuilder · Jul 14, 2011

I would like to hear about the PT100G issues, I am in the market for upgrading my PT100.

Bison · Jul 15, 2011

bz1 said:
Update: I got one sprocket removed and took several inner and outer sleeves off. The inner sleeves are worn out of round of course, the largest OD is 0.95" which is right near either end. The center portions have more wear and measure around 0.85". So I think my idea of installing new outer sleeves with 1.0" ID rather than the OEM 1.032" ID will work fine. The track supplier I mentioned said that the inner sleeves are commonly not replaced but can be rotated to put the wear opposite of where it contacts the tracks, just like is commonly done with dozer track bushings. Rotating them would put the thickest wall against the track. My plan now is to look for some surplus 1.0" ID x 1.5" OD seamless drawn tubing and use my cuttoff saw to make new outer sleeves. I think this will be way cheaper than buying sleeves at $5.15 each. As long as I have this thing apart I'm going to replace them. Still haven't figured out how to get the outer support bearing press fit cover off but I really haven't tried yet either, thoughts?

I wonder if a guy can use nylon or plastic outer sleeves.Seamless precision tubing is pricy stuff.

On the freezeplug cover,what if a guy welds a 3/4" nut to the center and pulls it out with a U or big piece of pipe setup and a piece of treaded rod and nut

bz1 · Jul 17, 2011

I think one could definitely use plastic tubing but I think it would have to be high density polyethylene. In fact you can buy aftermarket plastic ones from Bair Products but they are more expensive. I looked to find some plastic tubing and it is very expensive stuff too. We have a few steel surplus yards around here where one can get steel stuff like this for half the price of new if they have it. That would be where I check first. Otherwise the best price I found was new tubing that cost about $180 for enough to make 48 sleeves. That's still cheaper than $5.50 each.

Wish I would have thought of your idea on the freeze plug cover, I removed the first one with a die grinder and chisel but it's ruined. Didn't come out easy. Guess I never thought of welding mainly because I wasn't sure how close all that heat would be to the bearing which appeared to run smooth and was OK. Now that I've got one apart I can see that it might work.

redprospector · Jul 18, 2011

trailbuilder said:
I would like to hear about the PT100G issues, I am in the market for upgrading my PT100.

I don't want to derail this thread so here ya go.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/land-clearing/211755-out-frying-pan-into-fire.html

Andy

bz1 · Jul 19, 2011

Update: got the planetary drive apart very easily while still attached to the machine. Despite having 1800 hours my drive is in very good shape inside, very clean and no noticeable wear or play in bearings. Again, I am amazed at how easy this was to tear down and dissassemble. If I would have had to remove this from the machine it would have involved many more hours. It would be very easy to fix if anything needed replacement. I also have found a local distributor for parts so that would not be a problem. The only part I need is the seal. It is made by the same company that makes the excluder seals used on the axle but it appears to be a standard size rather than special. I will find out for sure tomorrow.

bz1 · Jul 21, 2011

Turns out the planetary seal is not made by the same manufacturer as the axle seals. Couldn't find a third party replacement seal perhaps because I thought it was made by the same company. Not sure who makes it yet but I bought it from the planetary maker instead of the ASV dealer. My cost was $46 versus $106 from dealer. My old seal was pretty chewed up and once I saw the new seal I see it's nothing special. Probably could have gotten a replacement from several manufacturers. I'm going to have my local seal supplier look this up now that I have one with marking on it. I also checked on replacing the outer support bearing. Mine is really in good shape so I'm not replacing it but just curious about availability. It is a standard bearing but was surprised to find out that the local bearing supplier wanted $25 for the cheapest brand he had, $50 for a good American brand. The ASV dealer gets $14 for the OEM bearing. Go figure, the dealer is lots cheaper. I also completed my search of a third party seal for the outboard support bearing seal. This is made by the same company that makes all the axle seals. I contacted them directly and the support bearing seal is made special for ASV so I ordered one from the dealer at $23, not too bad since there is only two on the machine. Today I also picked up enough steel tubing to replace all my sprocket sleeves. We have a local surplus steel dealer that gets 55 cents a pound for surplus. Only problem is he had every size but 1 inch ID. If he had the right stuff it would only have cost me $33 for enough steel to make them all. Instead I had to buy new 1"x1.5" DOM tubing and it cost me $180. That translates to $3.75 for each sleeve compared to $5.87 from dealer. That is a savings of $102. If I had bought the OEM sleeves I may also have had to replace the inner sleeves at an additional cost of $242. So I think this will save me considerable cost. I will start cutting the tubing up into the proper lengths tomorrow and begin the sprocket rebuild process.