My home built no-till seed drill

[spurlocktool]

How long from the light bulb idea, to the finished project?

Oh I guess about 60 years in the sense that I grew up on a ranch where my main entertainment was "making things", mostly out of whatever scrap was around. But for this specific project it was an evolution of about 2 years starting with a first prototype that worked so-so, then setting it aside and looking at commercial seed drill designs, then tapping into some outboard motor rebuilding experience from many years ago to get the idea for the improved seed metering system. I'm sure it could be further improved or at least made more versatile for different soil conditions and seed types, but so far it looks like the best system I've ever used.

 

[doall]

wow. That's great. Are you an engineer or self taught?

 

[spurlocktool]

wow. That's great. Are you an engineer or self taught?

Degree in mechanical engineering, but I've never worked professionally in that field. It was just nice to learn the theory to add to the practical experience of woodworking, metal working, mechanical work (motorcycle mechanic mostly) and general tinkering.

 

[lhfarm]

My only need for a no-till drill was when I planted prairie grass and I rented that. But I too am amazed by your skills and design work. I hope you will continue to post on this project and any other ideas you are working on.

Thanks!

 

[flusher]

Oh I guess about 60 years in the sense that I grew up on a ranch where my main entertainment was "making things", mostly out of whatever scrap was around. But for this specific project it was an evolution of about 2 years starting with a first prototype that worked so-so, then setting it aside and looking at commercial seed drill designs, then tapping into some outboard motor rebuilding experience from many years ago to get the idea for the improved seed metering system. I'm sure it could be further improved or at least made more versatile for different soil conditions and seed types, but so far it looks like the best system I've ever used.

Hey, that's one nice project. Congrats on excellent work.
I spend a few months two years ago rebuilding an old Minneapolis Moline P3-6 grain drill (10 ft wide, 20 drops, 6" row spacing, single disc openers). Bought a pair of these drills from a neighbor for $275. Used the parts to build a single good drill. Total cost was about $600. Used the drill to plant Kanota oats last Nov.

 

[seca111]

the drill is very nicely done.

but I must say I like the bird scare machine video's better :laughing:

 

[OldMcDonald]

Many thanks for posting. I use a two row home-built seeder for corn, lupins and cowpeas (almost, but not quite, precision sowing), but broadcast oats, vetch and Sudangrass, so am in the process of finalising plans for and 11-row drill (based on a Baker boot type of opener) and was in a quandary about the type of seed metering device to use. I really like the look of how you put yours together.

I wopnder if you would mind sharing your thoughts on the outlet slots. I appreciate the reason for them being angled, and obviously needing to be wide enough to allow your largest seeds through, but how did you decide what size to make the slot? Or is it just related to the size of the impeller to obtain a continuous stream?

 

[spurlocktool]

I wonder if you would mind sharing your thoughts on the outlet slots. I appreciate the reason for them being angled, and obviously needing to be wide enough to allow your largest seeds through, but how did you decide what size to make the slot? Or is it just related to the size of the impeller to obtain a continuous stream?

Nothing scientific in the design of the slots except that I made them about 3/16" wider than my biggest seeds to reduce chances of clogging. As for length the slots, match the width of the impellers. I'll be trying it out for real in the next few weeks and will report back when I see what results I get.

 

[spurlocktool]

Just wanted to report on my first use of the seed drill. It worked beautifully! About three weeks ago I planted a bell bean, pea and vetch cover crop mix in the orchard, then pulled a ring roller down the alleys to "cultipack" the seedbed. Three days later we got our first serious fall rain storm, about 3", followed by another half inch a week later. The results are great.

Unlike my old spring tooth/hand broadcast/drag planting method, the seed was placed at uniform depth with almost none left on top of the ground. I used less seed but got a better stand than ever. I depend entirely on fall/winter rains so it's always better to go a bit heavy, but it looks like I'll be able to change the gearing next year to further reduce the seed rate. Attached are some pictures of the emerging crop.

 

[kebo]

Nicely done there!! I bet you could start building a few of those to sell and get a nice little side business going.

 

[lhfarm]

Nicely done there!! I bet you could start building a few of those to sell and get a nice little side business going.

Don't know if you have been following the Nex Big Thing thread (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/186405-what-going-next-big-thing.html ), but a smaller version of no-till seed drill could be it.

Great project.

 

[dntfxr]

Man that's pretty impressive! Nice job!

 

[foggy1111]

Pretty impressive build!

Now you got my wheels spinning and doing some dreaming......

.....wonder if I could straighten out the front blades on a 3 Point disc/harrow for an "opener".....apply seeds similar to that shown......and then cover them with the back blades? Perhaps drag a chain behind to level and uniform.

Hmmmmm.....anyone tried / seen something like this?

OK (my bad) I re-read and saw the pics and videos. Exactly what my dreaming was about. VERY nice job!! Well executed!

 

[dieselscout80]

Pretty impressive build!

Now you got my wheels spinning and doing some dreaming......

.....wonder if I could straighten out the front blades on a 3 Point disc/harrow for an "opener".....apply seeds similar to that shown......and then cover them with the back blades? Perhaps drag a chain behind to level and uniform.

Hmmmmm.....anyone tried / seen something like this?

OK (my bad) I re-read and saw the pics and videos. Exactly what my dreaming was about. VERY nice job!! Well executed!

My Father in law had a 24' disc with a Gandy air seeder on it that did just that. He used it to plant soy beans straight into staw stubble right after harveting the wheat.

I'd like to build one like Spurlocktool's but I want to plant grass and clover.

 

[spurlocktool]

Pretty impressive build!

Now you got my wheels spinning and doing some dreaming......

.....wonder if I could straighten out the front blades on a 3 Point disc/harrow for an "opener".....apply seeds similar to that shown......and then cover them with the back blades? Perhaps drag a chain behind to level and uniform.

Hmmmmm.....anyone tried / seen something like this?

OK (my bad) I re-read and saw the pics and videos. Exactly what my dreaming was about. VERY nice job!! Well executed!

Thanks Foggy1111. As I mentioned in my picture descriptions, the best setup would be to use both front and rear gangs, with just a very small offset angle. That way it would not try to pull to one side. Or, use the front gang on one of those "X" shaped disc harrows, they're called angle frame discs. that would also cancel out any side pull. Either way, the angled furrow filling plates I use could be added to cover the seed. If I come across an angle frame disc at a yard sale I might just build seed drill version 2.0.

 

[spurlocktool]

My Father in law had a 24' disc with a Gandy air seeder on it that did just that. He used it to plant soy beans straight into staw stubble right after harveting the wheat.

I'd like to build one like Spurlocktool's but I want to plant grass and clover.

You could probably adapt the seeder for smaller seed like grass and clover by using a different impeller and smaller openings in the seed metering tube. This site is a good resource for comparing impeller dimensions:
Duckworks Magazine
Scroll down the page and click on the two charts to open them. Impellers can be found at NAPA auto parts stores, on Amazon, and at www.sierramarine.com among others.
For small seed impeller #30-3018 might work well. It has 12 blades instead of six like I used, and is less than half as wide as mine so it would divide the seed into smaller volumes. And it looks like it would be a perfect fit inside 1 1/2" Sch 40 PVC. Shaft size is 7/16".

 

[dieselscout80]

You could probably adapt the seeder for smaller seed like grass and clover by using a different impeller and smaller openings in the seed metering tube. This site is a good resource for comparing impeller dimensions:
Duckworks Magazine
Scroll down the page and click on the two charts to open them. Impellers can be found at NAPA auto parts stores, on Amazon, and at www.sierramarine.com among others.
For small seed impeller #30-3018 might work well. It has 12 blades instead of six like I used, and is less than half as wide as mine so it would divide the seed into smaller volumes. And it looks like it would be a perfect fit inside 1 1/2" Sch 40 PVC. Shaft size is 7/16".

Thanks!

I was thinking of using a bike gear setup so I could adjust the seeding rate.

 

[spurlocktool]

Thanks!

I was thinking of using a bike gear setup so I could adjust the seeding rate.

Or maybe a simpler option would be using a belt drive with step pulleys? I built a slightly different seeder design several years ago with a V belt drive which worked well.

 

[spurlocktool]

Darn, these photo sites keep changing addresses. Here is the link to the photos of my seed drill:
Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing

 

[OldMcDonald]

spurlocktool, I have this thread "flagged" so note your post today. I built another 2-row and a 4-row drill using your design of seed delivery, but with round holes instead of slots. It works brilliantly on a particular size of seed. They are not so good on different sizes of seeds. I AM NOT KNOCKING THE DESIGN - IT IS BRILLIANT.

What I am saying, is for anyone like me who sows row crops of all sizes of seeds, the design works very well, the cost of making a drill is cheap - particularly if you use tines and not a set of discs, so, if you know you are going to be sowing crops of the same species year after year, either make separate drills for each crop (it really is cheap enough to do this on even a small areage) or make the seed delivery mechanism interchangeable.

Thank you again for originally posting this. It gave me a few hours of thinking time whilst lying awake (I sleep very easily, but like most old men need to take a leak on a regular basis), many more hours of "planning" on pieces of paper, a few trail and error prototypes, and some good crops in the last couple of years. Also some seriously under and over-seeded trials - but no complete failures. I recommend the general idea to anyone who has an interest in making his own drill.