Buying Advice If you could do it all over again....

[Smithrr]

If your french drain is adjacent to a building, it is better to have a side shifting trencher. Don't ask me how I know.

No, nothing I need to do is next to the house or anything for all that matters. The needed French drain is dead center at the top of my tear dropped driveway. I'll be draining it into the second or third stage of the flower garden in the teardrop. Yet to be decided, I'll have to see how wet it is when I dig down.

I've attached a couple photos, bad photos but it gives the general location. The spot that might have a small spring under it is about where I am on the GT. Hopefully they show up.

 

[TripleR]

Well I appreciate the comments that have been given.

To explain myself..

I thought I had made it pretty obvious that I wasn't interested in hiring a backhoe or getting bids from anyone to do the work I wanted to do. I'm wanting a SCUT and didn't know the pros, cons, feel, resale, etc...etc..., so I was looking for opinions on the SCUTs.

I offered up want I was intending to do with it and then instead of targeting the ? SCUT will or will not do the tasks, it became a you don't know what your doing and hire it out thread. It's my belief one should learn a bit more about the person they're commenting on before they say or write things negatively about them. I also believe everyone on this board has hired some one in the past and when the job was done, they know they could have done a better job themselves. Unfortunately I live in a area where this seems to be very prevalent.

Well, I was done with this thread, but since you responded to me I will.

Bottom line is you don't know what you are doing as evidenced by your first post and jenkisph was offering sound advice and you were rude to him. There was absolutely no reason for that and he responded to your rudeness much better than I think I would have.

I have often related on here that once I went to buy a bigger tractor CUT in lieu of a SCUT, even after months of researching and owning a SCUT for six years and wound up buying another BX. On another occasion I was convinced I wanted an open station B3030 or B3200 and wound up buying a 50 HP with a cab.

You are now, having never owned a tractor, convinced you are right and people with multiple tractors and years of experience should essentially keep their opinions to themselves because you "know" better than they.

I run several tractors, BX2660, JD 2305, Kubota L5030 and M8540 plus a couple more and have been operating tractors for over 50 years, but when contemplating a new purchase, I come here for advice and opinions from a very knowledgeable group of people who collectively and often individually know a heck of a lot more about tractors and equipment than I.

If a person just wants a bunch of people to agree with them, this is probably the wrong place.

Good luck with your tractor shopping and I hope what you buy works out for you.

 

[Smithrr]

I was just trying to save you some money. Look at the BX Kubota and the new JD series. Either will spend your money fine and dig your lines.
Good luck.

Planning on visiting both next Saturday. I'm wondering why they don't build something like the BX25 with the BX2660 HP in the SCUTs. Started creating a chart of all the models I've researched but some change the terminology enough that I'm a bit confused at times; hence the reason I was looking for advice on the SCUTs.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Smithrr]

Well, I was done with this thread, but since you responded to me I will.

Bottom line is you don't know what you are doing as evidenced by your first post and jenkisph was offering sound advice and you were rude to him. There was absolutely no reason for that and he responded to your rudeness much better than I think I would have.

I have often related on here that once I went to buy a bigger tractor CUT in lieu of a SCUT, even after months of researching and owning a SCUT for six years and wound up buying another BX. On another occasion I was convinced I wanted an open station B3030 or B3200 and wound up buying a 50 HP with a cab.

You are now, having never owned a tractor, convinced you are right and people with multiple tractors and years of experience should essentially keep their opinions to themselves because you "know" better than they.

I run several tractors, BX2660, JD 2305, Kubota L5030 and M8540 plus a couple more and have been operating tractors for over 50 years, but when contemplating a new purchase, I come here for advice and opinions from a very knowledgeable group of people who collectively and often individually know a heck of a lot more about tractors and equipment than I.

If a person just wants a bunch of people to agree with them, this is probably the wrong place.

Good luck with your tractor shopping and I hope what you buy works out for you.

There's a difference between not knowing what I'm doing and not knowing anything about a certain product line. Yeah, I know nothing about SCUTs or any tractor for all that matters. I guess I need to take a trip to my wife's uncle's 800 acre Dairy Farm and have him show me a few things....he'd probably roll his eyes if I told him I wanted a SCUT. I'm sure he'd call it a lawnmower. I have no idea what tractors he owns, but they're huge.

I can't stress enough that I really do appreciate all the constructive information provided, but I kept getting beat up with the comments about needing a larger tractor and I simply don't have a need for it. I also dont need to get rid of the stumps, I just want to and therefore dont need to hire anyone. It felt like I was being attacked at times and unfortunately the negative comments made by jenkisph were kind of a last straw and he got the brunt of it. So for you, jenkisph and anyone else that felt I was rude to them I apologize. I would like for you to put yourselves in my place and reference how this thread started and think of how you would feel being attacked by the big tractor owners. It's not always about getting the job done quickly, for me it will be a way to get away from the workday just as much but want to eventually get the job done. Maybe I just like playing in the dirt.

The only thing that I said that I "know" was that I know that I could dig the stumps out with a pick axe, shovel and wheel barrel. I never said to anyone that I know better than them.

I suspect I will be using the SCUT hard in the beginning, but then it will be getting used how it's intended. The larger tractor would sit after I'm done initially and wouldn't get used.

I would consider the BX2660, but have read the frame is not built for a backhoe to be attached. The JD line is a bit pricey I think, however you can get more implements and attachments for them, this is attractive too and something to consider. I haven't heard much about the SC2450 and my dealer just raised the price this past week by $1500.

Going back in my past, I only remember seeing Masseys and Fords. Now in those areas I only see New Holland dealers. So if Ford kept there presence, how come Massey didn't? How come John Deere isn't as prevalent? I'm talking East Central Missouri now.

Can we call a truce and get back to talking about SCUTs and which ones don't perform, which ones perform well, which ones I will tear apart because the frame is weaker than it's power, which ones will last forever because they have no power , which ones have limited implements, what am I not going to be able to do with 16-17 PTO HP that I will be able to with 19.

Thanks

 

[tsteahr]

Can we call a truce and get back to talking about SCUTs and which ones don't perform, which ones perform well, which ones I will tear apart because the frame is weaker than it's power, which ones will last forever because they have no power , which ones have limited implements, what am I not going to be able to do with 16-17 PTO HP that I will be able to with 19.

Thanks

For SCUTs, the major players are the JD1023/1026, Cub Sc2450, kubota BX25, the MF GC2410/2610, and potentially the New Holland 1025. Alternative considerations could also be the Power Trac and Ventrac although these are slightly different fish and not really SCUTs in the traditional sense.

Of the five major brands I don't think you will go wrong with any of them. You won't tear any apart any sooner than any other. At least not significantly. If you use a little common sense any of the machines will prove quite rugged. There are only subtle differences between all these machines. Each manufacturer has put a little more into one aspect of their machine at the expense of some other aspect. For example the MF has the beefiest back hoe but the least sophisticated lift control of the 3ph. The BX hoe is a little smaller but the 3ph has a 1/4 inching feature. The CC has position control but not a traditional 2 range tranny. It has a shift-on-the-fly hydraulic swash plate vs a traditional 2 range gear. There are examples like this for every machine.

All are good machines and there are no bad choices. Each machine has certain areas of strengths where is might be slightly better than the competition. You should look carefully at each one with your intended main uses in mind. Then factor in the dealer quality, location and finally price.

Depending on the dealer it may not be necessary to have the dealer right around the corner. My dealer is about an hour away but I have only needed to make one "necessary" trip in the two years I've had the machine. A good dealer may be willing to work with you and provide on site service. My dealer won't charge me for extra for a service call if I'm willing to let him work it into his schedule to combine my visit with others he will be making in the area. If I have to have him out tomorrow I'll pay for it. If I am willing to wait a week or so, he will stop by the next time he is in my corner of the state.

In two years I have only needed one service call for a coolant hose issue. It took him about 10 days to get out to me but the service was done under warranty free of charge in my driveway. No inconvenience to me what so ever. I do my own regular service and the dealer sends me all the fluids and filters. So a long distance dealer can work, if you have the right relationship.

As far as doing something with 17hp vs 19hp. Not much of a difference. The extra hp would allow you a little more ground speed when blowing snow or tough mowing. The 19hp would run a pto chipper a little better and give you a little more KW when running a PTO generator. The JD, NH and MF have 1.1 liter motors while the CC and BX25 have 900cc motors. The larger displacement motors might feel a little more powerful and run at a little lower rpm but the differences are going to be minor.

The only operation where I consistently use full power is blowing snow. Extra hp would be most noticeable performing that task. That said I have never felt the GC2410 was under powered clearing 2 ft dumps of wet snow last winter. I could have choosen a GC2610 but I specifically choose the GC2410 due to the lower operating RPM of the motor at pto speed. (the GC24xx and 26xx share the same motor just the 26xx runs about 400 rpm higher at pto speed to get the extra pto power). I still feel I made the correct choice for my needs.

Short answer is find a machine and a dealer you like and enjoy the machine. You won't make a wrong choice.

 

[Smithrr]

@tsteahr, I want to thank you for the post, that clears a few things up for me.

If I could ask about something else you mentioned. You mentioned the snow blower which seems to be a popular option. I was thinking of the hydraulic 60" plow/grading blade instead since I live in Missouri and don't have the winters that most on this thread do. This past winter was a bit worse than normal but not that bad.

Getting to the question and I welcome all comments, the Sc2450 quick connect for the blade has to be removed to use the FEL. Is that common with all models that you are familiar with? It's only 6 or 8 bolts that are easily accessible, so it's not a big deal.

I haven't priced the Snow Blower just assuming it cost more than the hydraulic angled blade.

We also get several ice storms each winter which leaves us stuck at home with our driveway being long and sloped in 2 directions. How do the snow blowers handle an inch of ice?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Planning on visiting both next Saturday. I'm wondering why they don't build something like the BX25 with the BX2660 HP in the SCUTs. Started creating a chart of all the models I've researched but some change the terminology enough that I'm a bit confused at times; hence the reason I was looking for advice on the SCUTs.

Thanks for the input.

Many have made a chart and compared specs. However, if things are close, the most important thing is the dealer and buying something you are comfortable on. Don't judge the dealer just by their price. Look at parts dept., service, etc...

Don't get to caught up on any one spec unless it is glaring, but look at ease of attachment installments and such. Things that won't show on a chart but will make your life easier or tougher whichever way you choose. I'm 51 and when its hot outside, getting a heavy attachment hooked up can test my swearing. I know when I get older, I'll be looking hard at one of those "drive over self attach" mower decks.

I'm partial to green mainly because of my dealer, but I like being able to look up parts and availability sitting at home in my underwear on the net.

 

[scoutcub]

@tsteahr, I want to thank you for the post, that clears a few things up for me.

If I could ask about something else you mentioned. You mentioned the snow blower which seems to be a popular option. I was thinking of the hydraulic 60" plow/grading blade instead since I live in Missouri and don't have the winters that most on this thread do. This past winter was a bit worse than normal but not that bad.

Getting to the question and I welcome all comments, the Sc2450 quick connect for the blade has to be removed to use the FEL. Is that common with all models that you are familiar with? It's only 6 or 8 bolts that are easily accessible, so it's not a big deal.

I haven't priced the Snow Blower just assuming it cost more than the hydraulic angled blade.

We also get several ice storms each winter which leaves us stuck at home with our driveway being long and sloped in 2 directions. How do the snow blowers handle an inch of ice?

I agree, tsteahr had an excellent post on SCUTS!

To answer your question on the blades/loaders, Yes, you have to remove the loader to install the hitch with blade/blower, and vice/versa. I know this is the case for Cub, and quite sure for all other makes as well. The loaders do come off quickly (thus named quick-attach) and my understanding of the new 2011 2400/2450 hitch is THAT is a quick-attach as well. My 2010 Sc2400 that I just purchased has a bolt-on hitch, Not a big deal, but more time installing/removing. You might want to check with Cub, I would think the new QA system might leave a mounting plate attached to the front, where you can just attach the hitch with pins..thus being able to attach the loader quicker. Sorry I don't know for sure.
We get a bit more snow than you do, and I personally prefer a blade over a blower. This issue has created several threads of blade vs blower, you can read numerous opinions/threads here on TBN.
I do also have a blower, but rarely have had an need for it. If we have a huge dump I would probably break it out. If you have a limited side areas to push the snow, a blower would be better. But with a blower, a cab would be very nice to have when it's windy.....more $$$$. There's a new 2450 on Ebay with a full hard cab....I really like that cab...:drool::laughing:
For the Cub blower, the SB52, it's a redesigned blower and supposed to be very sturdy. You can read about it on the Cub forum.
Blowers are pricey.....around 4K for hitch and blower....more if you want the power chute. The 60" blade/hitch are around 2K.
I also think for ice, the blade would suit your need better. I've blown chunks of ice thru a blower, not only a danger to others/property, but to the blower itself.
As for doing it over again.....I just did. I sold (actually bartered on some concrete work) my 2007 SCUT for the 2010 SCUT. I am obviously a bit biased towards Cub, only because I have owned several Cubs for the past 17 years with absolutely no problems, and always exceeded expectations. I'm sure I would feel the same way if I had started out with Bota, Deere, NH, MF, etc etc. and had the same luck. All great machines. Plus I found a great deal on the 2400.
As been said, you could do the work you need to with a shovel and wheelbarrow.....the SCUT is definitely a step up from that!!
Enjoy the shopping, good luck with the purchase.


Frank

 

[tsteahr]

@tsteahr, I want to thank you for the post, that clears a few things up for me.

If I could ask about something else you mentioned. You mentioned the snow blower which seems to be a popular option. I was thinking of the hydraulic 60" plow/grading blade instead since I live in Missouri and don't have the winters that most on this thread do. This past winter was a bit worse than normal but not that bad.

Getting to the question and I welcome all comments, the Sc2450 quick connect for the blade has to be removed to use the FEL. Is that common with all models that you are familiar with? It's only 6 or 8 bolts that are easily accessible, so it's not a big deal.

I haven't priced the Snow Blower just assuming it cost more than the hydraulic angled blade.

We also get several ice storms each winter which leaves us stuck at home with our driveway being long and sloped in 2 directions. How do the snow blowers handle an inch of ice?

Glad to help :thumbsup:

Like Frank said, for ice I think you would be better with the blade. I had one little ice storm that left about an inch of ice. I took off the blower and used the loader. The blade would have been idle for that.

I can say on the MF the quick hitch can remain installed with the loader attached. You have to be careful as the quick hitch hangs low and you don't have the ground clearance you are used to when normally using the loader. The MF quick hitch is installed with a single hand screw and attaches in less than a minute. When using a blower, connecting the drive shaft from the mid pto to the hitch adds some extra time. But with a blade you won't need a drive shaft. Speaking of hitches, the 3ph on the MF can remain installed with the BH attached (the hitch folds up). The 3ph on the BX has to be removed. I'm not sure about the CC, perhaps Frank knows? If you have plans to use a box blade or landscape rake in conjunction with back hoe work this can be a consideration.

You are correct the blower costs quite a bit more than the blade. Two years ago the blower was $3500 and the 60" hydraulic blade was $2200. Both these prices included $650 for the quick hitch. I have to agree that you would probably be better served with the blade for your winters.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Smithrr]

There's a new 2450 on Ebay with a full hard cab....I really like that cab...:drool::laughing:

Frank

Now that is interesting since the Cub Dealer near my house told me there wasn't a cab feature for the SC2450 and that the cab for the SC2400 would fit but the ROP would have to be taken off and you wouldn't be able to operate the BH. That eBay photo sure looks like the ROP is there and the opening in back is plenty to spin the seat and operate the BH.

@tsteahr -- when I went to the CC dealer, we measured the QA Hitch and it stuck out 22 inches making it too far to where the FEL hydraulics would hit it.

I don't have a problem taking the QA Hitch off and figure I'd just use the FEL for grading and leave the plow for snow removal....but I do plan on looking at the GC2410 or GC2610.

I believe I feel comfortable with what I've learned in this thread and others to sit on them and test them out the best I can and come up with a decision.

Thanks EVERYONE!