Cub cadet LTX 1040 FYI

[forcrz6]

So last winter I was having all sorts of issues with starting the lawnmower to do snow blowing. It always seems that the lawnmower would not start when it is cold. Well Long story short I had to replace both my upper and lower drive belts. So when i bought them, and picked them up I talked to the guys about this issue.

Well come to find out the LTX 1040's had an issue where the Choke Solenoid was too close to the engine, and caused it to over heat and no longer function. This is what was happening to me.

Apparently there is a manufacturers kit to fix this, and is covered under warranty. It moves the Choke Solenoid away from the engine and stops this issue. So if you are having this issue, you may want to talk to your local CC dealer/repair center.

Also just to let you know. Cub also said that they programed the robots that weld the anti-scalp wheels to the mower deck wrong. There are only 2 welds and not 3, and that the welds were also not welded correctly. They will also fix this if your wheels are bent, or they (Like mine did) broke off.

 

[rcbe]

pls tell us more about this "choke solenoid"... something new ?

 

[forcrz6]

pls tell us more about this "choke solenoid"... something new ?

I don't know if it is called the "choke solenoid" But it is the little black or Metal color solenoid that is directly behind and below the Air filter on the 19hp Kholer courage. It will have 1 red wire going to it. The easiest way to find out if it is bad is to put you key in to the ignition. Open the hood on the LTX1040. Grab hold of this little Solenoid and then turn the key to the on position. You should feel, and hear a "Click" No click or feeling means this is bad. It may also be the "Fuel solenoid" Not sure which, but that is the location of it.

 

[rcbe]

OK. What you are describing is know as an "afterfire" solenoid. It's purpose is to shut fuel supply off to the carb's load circuit - in turn minimizing the amount of unburned vaporized fuel going into the exhaust manifold/muffler during engine shutdown spindown and going "BANG" when encountering red-hot carbon manifold/muffler deposits before engine completely stops.
Has been known to spook dogs and people alike.
Feature has been around for some years now. Turning ignition switch to "run" energizes the solenoid - ign "off" lets it return to a closed position. When malfunctioning, usually prevents engine start while being cranked.
BTW,the afterfire solenoid has nothing to do with engine choking function - that is usually a mechanical setup controlled by a cable from the dash to a flapper plate in the carb throat.

 

[forcrz6]

OK. What you are describing is know as an "afterfire" solenoid. It's purpose is to shut fuel supply off to the carb's load circuit - in turn minimizing the amount of unburned vaporized fuel going into the exhaust manifold/muffler during engine shutdown spindown and going "BANG" when encountering red-hot carbon manifold/muffler deposits before engine completely stops.
Has been known to spook dogs and people alike.
Feature has been around for some years now. Turning ignition switch to "run" energizes the solenoid - ign "off" lets it return to a closed position. When malfunctioning, usually prevents engine start while being cranked.
BTW,the afterfire solenoid has nothing to do with engine choking function - that is usually a mechanical setup controlled by a cable from the dash to a flapper plate in the carb throat.

Yep. Thats it. There is a kit that puts this further away from the engine now and it is covered under warranty from Cub. Mine is a 2009 and they are still warrantying it as this is the part that was causing it to not start when it gets cold.

Also dont forget the anti-scalp wheels are also under warranty too.

 

[rcbe]

Yep. Thats it. There is a kit that puts this further away from the engine now and it is covered under warranty from Cub. Mine is a 2009 and they are still warrantying it as this is the part that was causing it to not start when it gets cold.

Dunno - might want to double check that kit info... moving that afterfire solenoid location (usually right at bottom of carb assy) would not be a simple deal, IMHO.
And that solenoid usually has nothing to do with difficult cold starts unless it's sticking closed when energized.. a rare occurrence.

 

[forcrz6]

Dunno - might want to double check that kit info... moving that afterfire solenoid location (usually right at bottom of carb assy) would not be a simple deal, IMHO.
And that solenoid usually has nothing to do with difficult cold starts unless it's sticking closed when energized.. a rare occurrence.

It is a full kit from Cub Cadet. They are the 1s that stated that this was a problem, and they are the 1s issuing this kit that moves it away from the heat. Closed or open I have no clue, but now it starts like a champ with out having to crank it for 1/2 an hour.

 

[rcbe]

well, just spoke with my cub dealer - they have never heard of such a kit. Guess we agree to disagree. Have a good one.

 

[forcrz6]

well, just spoke with my cub dealer - they have never heard of such a kit. Guess we agree to disagree. Have a good one.

Is what it is. I know for a fact that this is covered under warranty, as per my Local cub cadet repair/dealership. It is called a "Solenoid Repair Kit", and 2009/2010 are covered under warranty IF they have the Black Coated/Colored Solenoid. They have to have these replaced as the heat causes the Solenoid to no longer work. I have 2 cub cadet dealerships here. the 1 I trust, and the others that had no clue as to what was happening. Heck Even messick's knew about this, but I had to talk to their guy in the Garage. This is just 1 of those things that if you do not talk to them, they wont look as they would love to charge you the 70+ for the part, and then labor to install. Also looking at the kit, the kit was revised so that the Solenoid has a better heat shield on it so that this does not happen to it again.

But hey, This took me 1 year to finally get this out of someone.