My Solar Panel Power Project

   / My Solar Panel Power Project
  • Thread Starter
#71  
The Unirac has you attaching to one side for the rail, and another side for the post mounts. So the holes in the ground don't quite line up. I didn't catch this, so I have a little off-angle tilt to the posts. Fortunately, I got a bunch of neoprene washers that I used to give the system some slop tolerance and to separate the face of the stainless steel washer from the extruded aluminum angle (long term galvanic concerns).

If I could have found a good source of aluminum C channel here, I would have put 6 holes per 12 panels. The channel would be held up with 1/2" stainless threaded rod. Instead, I have 18 holes per 12 panels and used 3/8" stainless threaded rod. You can see where the install time would go down, leveling would be easier, and the whole array would be more symmetric. I had problems with the 3/8 rod bending as I mounted things. All the usual first-time discoveries and like most project only when you are done do you really know how to do it.

The software is part of the automation stuff I'm working on. For the solar, I'm going to have to make a new current sense board. The inverter has about an amp of imaginary power you can see at night, presumably from the EMI filters in the unit. So I'll be taking a chip made for power company residential meters and making the equivalent of a meter. Then I'll have real power, power factor, and harmonic distortion. The cheaper current transformer only sensor is OK for lots of stuff, but with the PV you're talking big power and big money so there is more accuracy needed. Of course, since the PV array cost so much, the extra cost of an accurate reading system is not too bad.

All the inverter manufactures are trying to make money selling you the ability to see what your system is doing. But it's not an open system, there are no standards. So it's yet another stand alone hack like the weather stations and HVAC systems- no integration possible. The extra cost they charge for the inverter add-on is on the order of $400 and up, which is more than enough to cover whatever I end up building. There are also some interesting isolation problems since the panels are outside, have area, and can be hit by lightning. For battery current, I've got a nice instrumentation differential amplifier that can take 4mV and make it 4V (that's at max gain- gain is jumper programable) so a small 1 milliohm shunt on the low side where the batteries connect to ground would work. There are some high side current monitoring systems out there, but the single chip ones don't like big voltages- problem for another day. But what fun problems!

Pete
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #72  
Pete,
I remember running into the high side current sensing, high voltage issue on a design once but it was awhile ago and I'm having a 'senior moment' so i can't remember how I solved it or where the circuit is but I don't think I went to the low side sensing. Advantek makes some nice current sensing chips you might want to check out. I think some manufacturer solved the high voltage issue (Zetex maybe?), they have several sensing chips that I've used with good success.
Mostly I'm interfacing to Atmel's uC's these days for low current apps. I'm playing with energy harvesting and Atmel's chips are giving me currents in the low nanoamps. Actually there's a nice little chip from TI, the INA209 that gives you voltage, current or watts out that is great for watching what's going on with small solar apps.
Right now I'm lost somewhere in a 2's compliment algorithm in assembler that I'm determined not to go to C to resolve, I'm sure it will all work out.
Like you said, lots of fun!

ps: Stainless to aluminum, I haven't seen real problems with it unless you're talking a lot of current moving directly through the connection.
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #73  
I haven't looked into the Enphase website since we got our system installed. Not good that MTBF is going down! I recall that it was a high number to begin with... I got a spare inverter as part of the package, just in case I need one in 10 years and they are gone. As early adaptors, we run certain risks. I sold solar heating systems 30 years ago, and the big names back then are only memories now. I salvaged a system a few years ago, and put together a system to heat my shop, but finding an expansion tank with a bladder that compatible with the sythetic oil has proven impossible! I have an original tank, but it's borrowed from a friend who got half of the equipment we salvaged, and when and if he needs it, I'm screwed. I am not an expert, but I can tell you that we had no issues with galvanic corrosion between stainless steel and aluminum, maybe because the SS componets were small and the aluminum items were big, relatively? I did use neoprene isolaters where my alum. mounting pads touched my steel metal roofing, just in case.
I would think that racking should come down a lot in cost, once it becomes more of a commodity product in demand. All very interesting.
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #74  
My little project that I'm just finishing up. There are two arrays like the one pictured. Total panel capacity is 11.75 kW. I'm over powering the inverters to boost output over the course of the day in contrast to installing trackers. Excess power will be discipated as heat. ( we are only allowed to push 10kW into the grid )

Gratuitous tractor pic included.
 

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   / My Solar Panel Power Project
  • Thread Starter
#75  
tcartwri - Very nice :thumbsup: and tnx for the tractor pix! I got a kick out of the "If I make too much power, I just dissipate it as heat".

On the stainless-aluminum, it was on the edge looking at the various tables for galvanic corrosion. I was concerned about the large surface contact areas so played it safe with the neoprene. Good to hear that no one has seen any problems in the real world. The neoprene also helped in case there were problems with metal expanding/contracting with temperature, and again that is a long term issue I have no direct experience with. The big surface area contract was a mix of more contact area and the ability of a large surface area to hold water longer.

About every 6 months I plan to take 15 minutes and WD-40 all the hardware just in case.

The obsolescence problem is real now. These are Sharp 216 watt panels, and now they don't make them any more. In that same size, it's a 225 watt panel. Since there are three groups of 12 panels, if I have to replace one I may have to replace 3- problem for the future I suspect....

Pete
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #76  
Tcartwri,
Thanks for the photos, great job!

Pete,
What I did to compensate for any expansion problems was to mount all the panels off the aluminum rails with angle brackets. Since each panel only spans 30 to 40 inches between anchors I did not have any problems.

Varmint,
You make a good point about obsolescence, I think this a plus for the Enphase inverters. You just stack them on for each panel. Just as long as they are compatible with the rest of the inverters you're OK. My thinking is that we'll all be changing parts around in 5 or 10 years as things get cheaper and better. Let's hope so anyway!

Rob
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #77  
I am thinking about getting a 1-2kW solar panel setup for my house. I'd like to hear if anyone has any direct experience with this that might be able to help me. Thanks a lot.

solar panels maryland
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #78  
I am thinking about getting a 1-2kW solar panel setup for my house. I'd like to hear if anyone has any direct experience with this that might be able to help me. Thanks a lot.

solar panels maryland

First you have to decide if you want to run an off grid or an intertie. An intertie runs with no batteries and all the power you generate gets fed to the grid with your total consumption being reduced by that amount.

An off grid system runs with batteries and all the power you generate is used at your location. Both systems have distinct benefits.

You also have to determine to a great extent how much energy you need. You might want to get a "Kill A Watt" meter to determine your usage on different appliances. Do a web search for "P3 kill a watt", they're about $25.00 and will give you exact power usage of your different appliances.

Where are you putting the panels? Do you have south facing roof with good sun exposure?
You can get a certified in installer to come over and monitor your site to tell you these things. Figure the price of installation from them at $5 to 7.50 a watt. It's a lot cheaper to do it yourself but you will need experts to help you. It can be done but you have to be very handy. Maybe you have a neighbor with a background who can advise you and you can do the labor end.

Rob
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #79  
Good thread.... thank you
 
   / My Solar Panel Power Project #80  
I have a 1.2 kilowatt array grid tied with battery backup. Additionally I have solar dhw as well. What ?? do you have?
 

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