Hi, thanks to everyone that answered my questions about insulation. Now I am really having second thought about the Adams Truss building I was getting ready to put up. A pole barn allows me to place my overhead doors along the side instead of the endwalls and this works much better on my property. However the thought of sticking posts in the ground scares me a little. Won't that post rot? I live in NE Kansas and yes there are lots of pole barns here. Should I be worried about these posts rotting? What has been your experience?
Should I Be Afraid of a Pole Barn
- Thread starter monteu
- Start date
- Views: 12200
Poles in my shed are set within concrete pillars. In your case, they may be treated lumber, warping was more of a concern for me.
If there is a concern, why don't you go back to a conventional building with foundation and cement block walls. My barn is built that way.
Being that you are in Kansas, I'd worry more about wind damage, inflation, lightning and fire.
If there is a concern, why don't you go back to a conventional building with foundation and cement block walls. My barn is built that way.
Being that you are in Kansas, I'd worry more about wind damage, inflation, lightning and fire.
Depmandog
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 2,038
- Location
- Buckner MO, LaPlata MO
- Tractor
- 2005 Kubota L5030 GST; Farmall 706, 756, 806 & 1086
I would think you could design a way to install the doors anywhere you want with the Adams Truss building..,,
But that wasn't your question.
I used 6"x 6" pressure treated 18' posts for my 14' sidewalls. End walls had 22 / 24' posts.
Each post was set 3 1/2' deep in a 14" hole. The bottom of the hole had 6" of gravel, and after the posts were set and braced the holes were filled with pre mixed concrete.
After the building was constructed, a gravel base was put in place that surrounds three sides of every post, then a slab was poured on top of the base. Around the exterior, I have the dirt sloping away from the building. It has been up for about 10 years, and it's as solid today as the day I built it.
We have a company that pressure treats lumber 1/2 mile from my building. The only sell wholesale, but was able to set up an account through the business I had at the time and bought all my lumber from them for two thirds the cost of the lumber yard. Their only stipulation was you had to buy a lift or half lift quantity.
I wouldn't shy away from a pole barn...I used 26 gauge metal, and the metal building insulation. From the outside it looks like a metal building.
Of course I would rather of had a true metal building, but this worked for me.
Good luck
Dean
But that wasn't your question.
I used 6"x 6" pressure treated 18' posts for my 14' sidewalls. End walls had 22 / 24' posts.
Each post was set 3 1/2' deep in a 14" hole. The bottom of the hole had 6" of gravel, and after the posts were set and braced the holes were filled with pre mixed concrete.
After the building was constructed, a gravel base was put in place that surrounds three sides of every post, then a slab was poured on top of the base. Around the exterior, I have the dirt sloping away from the building. It has been up for about 10 years, and it's as solid today as the day I built it.
We have a company that pressure treats lumber 1/2 mile from my building. The only sell wholesale, but was able to set up an account through the business I had at the time and bought all my lumber from them for two thirds the cost of the lumber yard. Their only stipulation was you had to buy a lift or half lift quantity.
I wouldn't shy away from a pole barn...I used 26 gauge metal, and the metal building insulation. From the outside it looks like a metal building.
Of course I would rather of had a true metal building, but this worked for me.
Good luck
Dean
The problem with Adams truss is that the trusses are every 10 ft apart so you have a difficult time getting a 14 ft. or 16 ft. door along the side. Thanks tho for your reply about how you did your posts. That is helpful.
Not in your lifetime, unless you're only 20 years old. There are sleeves you can install around the post if it bothers you, they cost extra. Make sure you get posts treated for ground contact, put in decent drainage, and you won't have any problems.
I don't see how the concrete is doing any good. Or is the post held up off the surface of the gravel so the concrete goes under the bottom of the post?
Depmandog
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 2,038
- Location
- Buckner MO, LaPlata MO
- Tractor
- 2005 Kubota L5030 GST; Farmall 706, 756, 806 & 1086
monteu said:
They don't have a header system? You can always build a header using, among other things - LVL. Georgia Pacific will calculate the load and tell you what you need. Go to a lumber yard with your building info (not a box store). Something like Beverly Lumber in Riverside. They can help.
My two cents
Dean
amaxwell
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 396
- Location
- tennessee
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet-Yanmar ex450 -Ford 1300-Mahindra 2415
My Morton Building has 3 pressure treated 2x6 boards nailed together with galvinized nails below ground, and regular 2x6 boards spliced in above ground ,and has been up almost 20 years. They show no signs or decay yet.
whistlepig
Elite Member
I have read so many responses about treated posts rotting out here that it appears that it would just be best if we all put up tents. No concrete on treated posts for fences. No concrete for treated pole barn posts. I use concrete. It holds down fence posts and pole barns down much better than wet earth.
Willl
Elite Member
On my pole barn, the treated posts were set on 2 bags of concrete (still in bag) and the hole refilled with 'torpedo sand'.
