Subsoiler build ...

[bullbreaker]

Thanks Boone ... maybe I can get an "escort service" to deliver them.

:laughing: :thumbsup:

Boone

 

[yelbike]

You may want to use a lower grade bolt and smaller diameter also. Work your way up as you get nuissance shearing of the bolts. Bolts are cheap to replace and if you think its annoying to replace them image breaking your baby. Thats annoying I broke mine once.
Its easier to ream the hole larger if needed then the other way around. :laughing:

 

[blueriver]

You may want to use a lower grade bolt and smaller diameter also. Work your way up as you get nuissance shearing of the bolts. Bolts are cheap to replace and if you think its annoying to replace them image breaking your baby. Thats annoying I broke mine once.
Its easier to ream the hole larger if needed then the other way around. :laughing:

Good advice ... today I went into some virgin ground ... dang thing would not penetrate ... so now I'm thinking ... "weight" maybe some concrete boxes or something ... I was amazed it just road on top.

 

[jenkinsph]

Good advice ... today I went into some virgin ground ... dang thing would not penetrate ... so now I'm thinking ... "weight" maybe some concrete boxes or something ... I was amazed it just road on top.

Might need more hook to penetrate the hard ground.

 

[blueriver]

Might need more hook to penetrate the hard ground.

I think thats part of it ... if I cut the shank and use bolts for the shear pins at more of an angle that may help.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Blu,
I think that coulters from an old grain drill would be perfect.
You might try some of these places. If none of the ones in OK have what you want, you could try Ark and Tx.
Oklahoma Tractor Salvage Yards

BTW, the shear bolts on the HayKing are 1/2 and 5/8" grade 5.

Hope that helps.

 

[blueriver]

Blu,
I think that coulters from an old grain drill would be perfect.
You might try some of these places. If none of the ones in OK have what you want, you could try Ark and Tx.
Oklahoma Tractor Salvage Yards

BTW, the shear bolts on the HayKing are 1/2 and 5/8" grade 5.

Hope that helps.

Shoot I never gave them a thought ... I have an old JD grain drill in the woods !!!!! Got to investigate that. THANKS ... gonna change those rippers this week cut them, angle them and use the shear bolts.

 

[dieselscout80]

Shoot I never gave them a thought ... I have an old JD grain drill in the woods !!!!! Got to investigate that. THANKS ... gonna change those rippers this week cut them, angle them and use the shear bolts.

You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

 

[Baby Grand]

You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

Good advice! You can change the angle a few times by changing top link length without committing much time or money for each change and really dial in the best angle.

 

[blueriver]

You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

Good advice! You can change the angle a few times by changing top link length without committing much time or money for each change and really dial in the best angle.

Yes that is good advice and I will mess with that before I make any modifications. If that don't "cut" it ... I'm going to try some weight as well to see if its an issue.