Subsoiler build ...

bullbreaker · Jan 17, 2012

blueriver said:
Thanks Boone ... maybe I can get an "escort service" to deliver them.

:laughing: :thumbsup:

Boone

yelbike · Jan 17, 2012

You may want to use a lower grade bolt and smaller diameter also. Work your way up as you get nuissance shearing of the bolts. Bolts are cheap to replace and if you think its annoying to replace them image breaking your baby. Thats annoying I broke mine once.

Its easier to ream the hole larger if needed then the other way around. :laughing:

blueriver · Jan 17, 2012

yelbike said:
You may want to use a lower grade bolt and smaller diameter also. Work your way up as you get nuissance shearing of the bolts. Bolts are cheap to replace and if you think its annoying to replace them image breaking your baby. Thats annoying I broke mine once.
Its easier to ream the hole larger if needed then the other way around. :laughing:

Good advice ... today I went into some virgin ground ... dang thing would not penetrate ... so now I'm thinking ... "weight" maybe some concrete boxes or something ... I was amazed it just road on top.

jenkinsph · Jan 17, 2012

blueriver said:
Good advice ... today I went into some virgin ground ... dang thing would not penetrate ... so now I'm thinking ... "weight" maybe some concrete boxes or something ... I was amazed it just road on top.

Might need more hook to penetrate the hard ground.

blueriver · Jan 18, 2012

jenkinsph said:
Might need more hook to penetrate the hard ground.

I think thats part of it ... if I cut the shank and use bolts for the shear pins at more of an angle that may help.

Bigfoot62 · Jan 18, 2012

Blu,
I think that coulters from an old grain drill would be perfect.
You might try some of these places. If none of the ones in OK have what you want, you could try Ark and Tx.
Oklahoma Tractor Salvage Yards

BTW, the shear bolts on the HayKing are 1/2 and 5/8" grade 5.

Hope that helps.

blueriver · Jan 18, 2012

Bigfoot62 said:
Blu,
I think that coulters from an old grain drill would be perfect.
You might try some of these places. If none of the ones in OK have what you want, you could try Ark and Tx.
Oklahoma Tractor Salvage Yards

BTW, the shear bolts on the HayKing are 1/2 and 5/8" grade 5.

Hope that helps.

Shoot I never gave them a thought ... I have an old JD grain drill in the woods !!!!! Got to investigate that. THANKS ... gonna change those rippers this week cut them, angle them and use the shear bolts.

dieselscout80 · Jan 18, 2012

blueriver said:
Shoot I never gave them a thought ... I have an old JD grain drill in the woods !!!!! Got to investigate that. THANKS ... gonna change those rippers this week cut them, angle them and use the shear bolts.

You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

Baby Grand · Jan 18, 2012

dieselscout80 said:
You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

Good advice! You can change the angle a few times by changing top link length without committing much time or money for each change and really dial in the best angle.

blueriver · Jan 18, 2012

dieselscout80 said:
You might try adjusting the length of your top link before cutting anything. It looks like shorting the top link may help it dig in better (easy to do) and it may help you decide on the final angle before you change to a shear bolt setup.

Baby Grand said:
Good advice! You can change the angle a few times by changing top link length without committing much time or money for each change and really dial in the best angle.

Yes that is good advice and I will mess with that before I make any modifications. If that don't "cut" it ... I'm going to try some weight as well to see if its an issue.

blueriver · Jan 18, 2012

I'm also thinking if I had the coulters they will cut a good depth and that may inable the shank to get in.

dieselscout80 · Jan 18, 2012

blueriver said:
Yes that is good advice and I will mess with that before I make any modifications. If that don't "cut" it ... I'm going to try some weight as well to see if its an issue.

I did some subsoiling for my Father In-Law with a big DMI subsoiler. His subspoiler did not have and added weight and it pulled right in, but that was in crop land though. DMI had shear bolts to protect it I know cause I had to replace one. The shear bolt setup uses two bolts one larger bolt that does not shear and is the pivot point and a smaller bolt that shears. On his DMI the shear bolt was at least 5/8" or 3/4" in dia. It looks like CaseIH bought out DMI now though.

1999 DMI 530B Plows/Rippers For Sale At TractorHouse.com

DMI 530 Plows/Rippers For Sale At TractorHouse.com

Mounted Madness · Jan 18, 2012

oldballs said:
:thumbsup:I envy your skill and you may have something that would sell there. Maybe you could call it the "Triple Sub-Soiler". Notice how it covers your tracks.

Or how's this...

Land Trident !

...

blueriver · Jan 20, 2012

Changing the angle with the top link had no bearing still wouldn't cut that virgin ground.

The disc on the old JD Grain drill are concave so thats out ...

I did locate some 14" straight with the hub and bearings at Burell Implements in Oklahoma ... hope to have them next week.

I'm also going to try some weight.

otis whitehead · Jan 21, 2012

This may sound like bunk but...Look at the flat spot behind the point. I built a root cutter/ripper had to roll that sucker WAY over before it would bite. Ended up cutting sharper angle onto tip to get it to bite. Looked at bottom of cutter well pollished spot where back is limiting plunge..

blueriver · Jan 21, 2012

otis whitehead said:
This may sound like bunk but...Look at the flat spot behind the point. I built a root cutter/ripper had to roll that sucker WAY over before it would bite. Ended up cutting sharper angle onto tip to get it to bite. Looked at bottom of cutter well pollished spot where back is limiting plunge..

Thats a thought. When I put the "shoe" on I squared it with the shank which does give it a flat bottom. The cutting tooth is about 3/4" longer/lower than the shoe but once the tooth cuts a little then it stops going in. I think I'll try to angle those.

blueriver · Jan 23, 2012

Good news and bad ... I cut a good angle on the shoe and that made it dig ... so deep in fact it buried to the bottom. I had to use the 3 point to control depth. Thanks Otis for the advice.

Bad News ... as some of you stated it needs shear bolts ... I did about 5 acres of that hard virgin soil and bang broke the middle shank clean off ... its welded back on But I'm going to delay any further subsoiling until I make the breakaway shanks,

I found the used coulters and they are being shipped.

Thanks ya'll ... I will post updated pictures.

oldnslo · Jan 23, 2012

blueriver said:
Bad News ... as some of you stated it needs shear bolts ... I did about 5 acres of that hard virgin soil and bang broke the middle shank clean off ... i

Hey Blue,
I don't care how many shanks you plant, they won't grow..

Glad you got it working, now come the tweaking.

Roy

blueriver · Feb 16, 2012

I've got the coulters together and mounted to the unit ... with all the other projects I've been avoiding the break away ... well today I'm going to start that. Cut all those welds on the shanks and rethink a design and put it back together ... pictures are pending!!