Ford 8n restoration

[justinhart45]

I am currently restoring a 1952 Ford 8n. I was wondering if anyone knew how much red paint I would need to purchase. I have the tractor torn down to the frame (engine, transmission/lift and axles).

 

[Jamming]

I am currently restoring a 1952 Ford 8n. I was wondering if anyone knew how much red paint I would need to purchase. I have the tractor torn down to the frame (engine, transmission/lift and axles).

Depends on the paint you are using and how you are applying it. Rattle cans I would buy at least 6, but it's the paint you can't see that's the most important on a tractor, base coat should be carefully considered. Por15 is about the best industrial quality paint I have ever seen. Google por15 you can use a brush or gun.

 

[murphy1244]

I am currently restoring a 1952 Ford 8n. I was wondering if anyone knew how much red paint I would need to purchase. I have the tractor torn down to the frame (engine, transmission/lift and axles).

Thats a odd question.

 

[mmurphy]

Thats a odd question.

But that is just our law, Murph!

 

[Soundguy]

I am currently restoring a 1952 Ford 8n. I was wondering if anyone knew how much red paint I would need to purchase. I have the tractor torn down to the frame (engine, transmission/lift and axles).

a couple quarts will give you a couple coats, if you use a spary gun.. though many palces you can't get quarts anymore .. so that leaves you with a gallon.

if brush painting, deffinately go with a gallon.

ps.. use a primer as well.


forget the rattle cans.. for what you will spend in rattle cans, you could buy a cheap gun, hose, pancake compressor AND canned paint and take yer time and paint it good.. and it won't be paper thin and peeling in 3 months...

soundguy

 

[Mike476]

forget the rattle cans.. for what you will spend in rattle cans, you could buy a cheap gun, hose, pancake compressor AND canned paint and take yer time and paint it good.. and it won't be paper thin and peeling in 3 months...

soundguy

Spot on. You have the bull work done, and using todays guns is like using a mig welder, you don't have to do it for a living to get professional results.

 

[Army grunt]

I brushed my old tractor, It came out good, Sure was less to do, an I have spray equipment.Be sure any paint you use has "UV"protection. The hood i did with brush an sealed it with a few rattle cans of clear. The hole thing was easy an fun, The most important thing is sand,clean it an tack rage, before painting.Good luck an give us pics
Army Grunt

 

[flusher]

I am currently restoring a 1952 Ford 8n. I was wondering if anyone knew how much red paint I would need to purchase. I have the tractor torn down to the frame (engine, transmission/lift and axles).

I'd get a gallon and apply with a $40 HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. That's what I use to paint my restorations, like this 1948 Farmall Cub

 

[LD1]

As others said, use a spray gun.

Quicker and easier IMO. And after the job is done, your finger wont be cramped up from a rattle can.

PAint amount, 2 quarts of red, 2 quarts of red primer, 2 quarts of grey, and two quarts of grey primer.

And honeslty, you will probabally only use one of each. Im mixed right and used with a hardner.

We use VM&M napatha to thin the paint to be sprayed as well as hardener. Make sure you use a hardner. Especially if using BPS paint at TSC. I have used it without, and about a week later, the paint can be scratched off with a fingernail. With the hardner, it is hard as a rock in a day or two.

And not use the ford grey from TSC. Go to a Ford/NH dealer. The TSC stuff is the wrong color.

And also, as with any paint job, 90% of the way to get a great finish is in the prep. MAke sure everything is clean and grease free. I like to wipe everything down with acetone and let that evap off right before I spray too. Just to be sure there will be no fisheyes or anything.

Good luck and post pics.

 

[Soundguy]

I'd get a gallon and apply with a $40 HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. That's what I use to paint my restorations, like this 1948 Farmall Cub

and if you shop around.. 10-25$ for an ok gun..

some of my best paint got laid down with a 10$ chinese gun..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

We use VM&M napatha to thin the paint to be sprayed as well as hardener. Make sure you use a hardner. Especially if using BPS paint at TSC. I have used it without, and about a week later, the paint can be scratched off with a fingernail. With the hardner, it is hard as a rock in a day or two..

even better.. find a nason dealer ( carquest? ).. get their hardner.. quick cure, for their SS synthetic enamil.. it's only 8$ a can vs the 14$ valspar hardner. the quik cure hardner produces hand safe finishes in alkyd or acrylic/acrylic modified enamil in 15-30 minutes.

I swear by it.

In some cases I use the nason ss enamil.. but it's way more $$ and needs a medium reducer.. not just naptha... thus overall cost is a bit more..

soundguy

 

[justinhart45]

Thanks for all the help! This was my first post on here (I'm not very computer literate) haha. This info is very helpful. I have already purchased a pneumatic spray gun from Lowes. I just was unsure of buying a qt or gal. I had been told different things by friends. As far as prep I have sandblasted most parts and some of the rear of the tractor. I was afraid to sandblast the engine area. I plan to pressure wash and paint as soon as the rainy weather permits. Again, thanks for the input!

 

[Soundguy]

remember to us a regulator on the gun. and no oiler.. and no lines that have been on an oiler..

soundguy

 

[2458n]

As soon as you are done sand blasting the rust starts . Try to do the sand blasting and priming as soon as possible. You need to use the harding agent. This will also effect the time you have when painting the top color. I recall having to put on one coat and recoat in a certain amount of time. If you do not do it in that time frame you have to wait for like a week before recoating.

 

[LD1]

even better.. find a nason dealer ( carquest? ).. get their hardner.. quick cure, for their SS synthetic enamil.. it's only 8$ a can vs the 14$ valspar hardner. the quik cure hardner produces hand safe finishes in alkyd or acrylic/acrylic modified enamil in 15-30 minutes.

I swear by it.

In some cases I use the nason ss enamil.. but it's way more $$ and needs a medium reducer.. not just naptha... thus overall cost is a bit more..

soundguy

I'll have to remember that:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

As soon as you are done sand blasting the rust starts . Try to do the sand blasting and priming as soon as possible. You need to use the harding agent. This will also effect the time you have when painting the top color. I recall having to put on one coat and recoat in a certain amount of time. If you do not do it in that time frame you have to wait for like a week before recoating.

I dont use hardener in the primer. But either way, When I am in the painting mood.....I am in the painting mood.

Primer dries fast. About as soon as you get everything primed and the gun cleaned, and the color coat thined and hardener added and ready.....the primer where you first started is dry enough to paint. I do like the primer just a little tacky when painting the color coat. It helps it bond better IMO

 

[justinhart45]

Ok. Will do. This is a learning process for me. The first restoration of many antique tractors for me hopefully! Next will be a 2 cylinder John Deere 40!

 

[Soundguy]

i liked my jd-b.. but the greene ones sure are spendy..

a 40 would have been a nicer choice IMHO...

 

[justinhart45]

this is the n before sandblasting

 

[flusher]

remember to us a regulator on the gun. and no oiler.. and no lines that have been on an oiler..

soundguy

Yep, mine is a Porter Cable oil-free compressor. Don't have to worry much about humidity around here (it's 10% or so during the hot months). I just be sure to drain the water out of the air tank after each use, especially in the cooler months.