Land Pride grading scraper

[jwalk2c]

I have been shopping for a grading scraper for a long time and today stumbled across new models from Woods..GS54S,GS60C,GS72C,GS84C
I like the adjustable and replaceable side skids on these WOODS models.
Scarfiers are standard equipment
And for a subcompact tractor Woods has a new grader !
It痴 a GS54S designated for SubCompact .
I am trying to decide between it and the GS60C . My tractor is a FORD 1520as I stated a few post back in this thread.
I like the fact that there is a blade to fill the gap between a 48in model and 60 inch model.I was quoted about $1100 for GS60C and $970 for the GS54S.
But my rear wheels are 24in and may be too tall for subcompact hitch.
Hope this helps someone.
JohnnyWalker

 

[PILOON]

Years back we maintained our community gravel/dirt road with a homemade drag.
It was 8" long and 8" wide made with 5 ea 6" x6" oak.
2 served as 'stringers' with the others serving as blades.
The blades were faced with 3/8" X 3" flats that were lag screwed every 10"
The first blade was angled to the right, second blade angled to the left and 3rd to the right.
The 2nd blade was offset to the right by about 6-8" in order to catch the first blade's spillover and being right offset the second blade spilled over to the 3 blade.
Because the drag had 3 'blades' it scalped all the high spots and filled all the depressions and the angles assured that the scalping traveled from side to side while the 2nd blade offset caught the 1st ones excess and passed it down the line to the 3rd blade.
One pass and you would believe somebody had spent a week with a rake on our mostly dirt road.
Main challenge was removing fist sized stones that would be flipped up, that called for some stop-and-go driving.
All in all 3 seasonal outings over the 10 year period kept us in really good shape until the city took over our road.

 

[catdozer]

Picked up some steel from my uncle!! It's going to turn out pretty good, about 13ft I-beam. 40ft of 3 in square tubing, 12ft of 1/2 think angle iron, flat steel, 4ft 3/8 angle iron, and C channel for the skids. I'm going to incorporate a little of everyone's landplane including the frame of Jenkinsph, then the hitch is going to be like the leinback with angle iron, and the blades are going to be like Mtviewranches, unless I come up with a quick adjustable skid type. But here's some pictures of the steel!!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My back hurts just looking at that. Unfortunately it reminds me of work that I need to get done.

 

[HunterWare]

Regarding the size questions on small tractors: I was pointed to the 5' Frontier grader plane for my 1026R (w/ FEL and loaded tires) and it pulls great even fully loaded on my drive. I have a 30deg hill that's about 120ft worth of drive and the rest is almost 2000 ft of gentle hills and curves. I have loaded it fully with my drive's "crusher run" and not lost traction yet.

So given that size and use case, hopefully this is a useful reference point for some people...

Oh, and it's an amazing improvement for me over using BB, RB, or LR... I tried them all with varying degrees of dissatisfaction and disappointment. I know that a more skilled operator could do wonders with any of the above, but an unskilled newbie like me can have a perfectly smooth, hard, crowned gravel drive with this and a couple passes. For a single lane drive the 5' width is just about perfect too.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

HunterWare, glad to see that your grader works so well for you. So far, everyone that has used one seems to be happy with them, big, small, heavy and light. Do you know the weight of your grader blade? If you do, would you please post it. The weight has a lot to do with these implements and makes a big difference with which implement can be used behind what tractor. Oh, any pictures? We all like pictures. :thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

Glad you got the steel to get started.:thumbsup:

I just got back home with a new 6"X96"X5/8" double edged grader blade from the Deere dealer. Wasn't too bad $195+tax, will cut it into two 48" pieces for my small landplane build.

Going Monday to pick up some steel and see if I can find some rectangular tubing to use for the skids. Most of the stuff to pickup is for a fence job.
Hope I can find something in the drop pile, 2x8 heavy wall boxtubing would be ideal for this build. I am trying to build this 48" width+skids x48" depth for the skid length and a weight of about 350lbs. Will post some pics of the build in progress.

 

[jenkinsph]

Here's a link to the Frontier landplane with a picture of the 5' blade.

http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/non_current/dsfe41828_land_planel_lp10_11_lit.pdf

 

[catdozer]

Glad you got the steel to get started.:thumbsup:

I just got back home with a new 6"X96"X5/8" double edged grader blade from the Deere dealer. Wasn't too bad $195+tax, will cut it into two 48" pieces for my small landplane build.

Going Monday to pick up some steel and see if I can find some rectangular tubing to use for the skids. Most of the stuff to pickup is for a fence job.
Hope I can find something in the drop pile, 2x8 heavy wall boxtubing would be ideal for this build. I am trying to build this 48" width+skids x48" depth for the skid length and a weight of about 350lbs. Will post some pics of the build in progress.

:thumbsup: going to look good. it's going to have a big brother :laughing: went to cut the I-beam and the tip for the torch went out, so ill just build the frame tomorrow since i can cut it all with the chop saw. but i will also have build pictures up tomorrow for the frame. also im going to end up building mine to 68in wide as that's what the one piece of angle iron was, and didn't want to go digging for more angle iron to 72in. what depth should i set my blades at? i will be working on hard packed gravel.

 

[jenkinsph]

If your intention is to use it for gravel driveways I would set it 1" below the skids. If you want to finish grade you add 1/4" flatbar with a 3/4" wood spacer to the plane to have the 0 clearance. This can be easily done by drilling holes thru the bottom of the skid to accept studs welded to the top of the flatbar with the threads looking up. Raise the plane, slip the shim and flat bar up from underneath and run the nuts up on top of the skid runners. Just make the threads long enough to work with thick spacers.

If you wanted you could make an assortment of the wooden spacers to allow you to spread topdressing on lawns as well as applying a thin layer of washed rock to your roadway etc. You could have a thick spacer on one side and thin spacer on the other to aid you in crowning the drive too.

Let me know if this is clear enough.