Land Pride grading scraper

[catdozer]

If your intention is to use it for gravel driveways I would set it 1" below the skids.

Let me know if this is clear enough.

Perfect!!!!!! Wow!!!!! That's a very good I idea! Well then I'm building it, and next week sometime I could build the adjustment then instead of wood I got 3in wide x 1 inch think solid bar I could easily bolt that on, and many different thicknesses, I can drill holes and tap into the solid bar! and laying new stone in the correct thickness just get thicker bar and bolt that on!!! Thank you!!!! Can't wait to get started tomorrow! Christmas morning

 

[jenkinsph]

Perfect!!!!!! Wow!!!!! That's a very good I idea! Well then I'm building it, and next week sometime I could build the adjustment then instead of wood I got 3in wide x 1 inch think solid bar I could easily bolt that on, and many different thicknesses, I can drill holes and tap into the solid bar! and laying new stone in the correct thickness just get thicker bar and bolt that on!!! Thank you!!!! Can't wait to get started tomorrow! Christmas morning

You can use the thick bar but it would be alot more cumbersome to work with. That is why I suggested using the wood pieces, much lighter to work with and a lot less money. the wood shims could be stored in a pvc pipe with a screw in cap mounted to the rear cross tubing.

 

[FredH]

Pic's of the one I built last year . 7' wide x 7' + long pulled behind a New Holland TC 30 HST with loader . Driveway is 800' + feet with at least 1/3 being a grade of 7 to 8 % . Crushed Shale , ( not 3/4 minus river rock but actual crushed shale ) is our road base . Blades are just 1/2" x 6" flat stock that I beveled on the lead edge with plasma cutter . They are attached to 3/8" 3"x3" angle that is welded 1/2" above the bottom of side skids . Slots in blades allow for 0" to 3" cutting , but 1/4" to 1/2" is really all I needed . Pictures were taken before I added additional cross braces , beveling blades , and something else I did (???? ) , But dang thing works and tractor pulls it great .

Fred H.

 

[catdozer]

well here's today's build progress, went and borrowed a plasma cutter and wow does that do a heck of a good job. going to go hunt down some cutting edges tomorrow, a local welding shop is big into handling plows and he always has a little of everything. but im just going to do a happy medium and go half an inch below the skids and later down the road build something else for it. but in really dreading drilling that 1/2 angle iron for the bolts. i just got the two pieces of tubing welded on before i ran out of gas for the welder should have looked before i started. should get more done tomorrow.

 

[FredH]

If you borrowed the plasma cutter once , try again . Rather than drilling , plasma torch will blow threw your holes in just a few minutes . I did all my holes and slots in blades with-out pre-drilling . Just hold torch at a slight angle pointed away from you and squeeze the trigger . Took less than 2 seconds to blow threw 1/2" plate . Sure hole will not be perfectly round , but mine are pretty close for farm implements .


Fred H.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I drilled the holes I used a small pilot cnc bit 1/8" then ran a 5/8" bimetal holesaw. Works well enough and the advantage of using a hole saw is that it doesn't have to remove all the metal, having the slug or core makes it easier to drill. To assure proper fit and alignment I first clamped the grader blades in place and then used the graderblade holes as my giuides. Took about 1 1/2 hours to drill all 16 holes in the 5/8" flatbar. Just keep the bits cool with cutting oil and the holesaw will work fine.


I just checked the holes in my new grader blade and there is just enough play I will try the holesaw without a pilot bit, thinking that will save some time.

 

[jenkinsph]

well here's today's build progress, went and borrowed a plasma cutter and wow does that do a heck of a good job. going to go hunt down some cutting edges tomorrow, a local welding shop is big into handling plows and he always has a little of everything. but im just going to do a happy medium and go half an inch below the skids and later down the road build something else for it. but in really dreading drilling that 1/2 angle iron for the bolts. i just got the two pieces of tubing welded on before i ran out of gas for the welder should have looked before i started. should get more done tomorrow.

Looks like you are off to a good start.:thumbsup:
If you are not planning on rolling the ends as I did then recognize that you will need to put stiffeners in from flange to flange. I rolled the ends of my skids because that makes them ride over the ground better and also makes the flanges stiff.

 

[catdozer]

Since I haven't welded the angle iron on yet I was thinking of using the drill press, once I mark up the holes for the cutting edge. I got C channel to build up the ends and then roll it out of 1/4 steel and make it look like yours.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 1hp drill press I was going to use but didn't have anyone to help tail it or help hold it. So I opted for the 1/2" corded drill. Make sure you check the fit for the plow bolts when setting this up, save enough room to get a socket on the insde.

Hope to find some deals on shorts/drops tomorrow at the steel place. I am hoping to find some rectangular tubing suitable for skids. This new landplane I hope to eliminate most of the horizontal surfaces that holds the gravel, it can be a pain to have it fall off on the roads or lawns.

 

[jenkinsph]

Well I had some success at the steel yard.
Found a piece of 2x8x3/16" boxtubing for the skids, a piece of 4x4x3/8" for the blade mounting and a 6x36x1/2" flatbar for the hitch parts. Buying from the drop pile saved a few bucks as I didn't have to buy these full length.

Steel bar and angle was running $ .56/lb and the boxtubing was $8.38/ft.

So with the boxtubing in my rack and assorted other stuff I think I have everything but time to complete this project.