Angry Beaver project (FEL build)

[Freakingstang]

they handle is at least 12" long...so the valve isn't very long/tall... handle can always be shortened.

Have you ever ran a loader? Have you ever ran a joystick on a loader? Using two seperate valves is a pain in the *** at best, cumbersome and not very productive...I'll spend the extra bucks for a joystick... I might get the hydrualics plumbed in with the two individual spools as I already have them... but I'd rather make the hoses from the getgo with the joystick. I'm also looking at making my own loader arm hyd. metal lines instead of gawdy hoses.

I also picked up a 72" ratchet rake from a local TSC today. I will work on that once I get a new bucket. I've been looking for a 50-60" bucket for a while now, and haven't had any luck. I suppose I could make wider bucket, but I'm outof thick sheetmetal, and the amount of cost and time involved making one, I'm sure I can find a used bucket.

 

[Freakingstang]

Umm... that's an awful lot of blade for that little Beaver. I tried running a 60" box blade behind mine.

I ran out of traction.

The back blade seems fine, it isnt a box so it doesn't have teeth...lol she pulled the dirt, erh uhm mud just fine last weekend. 5 foot seemed fine to me in both snow and dirt so far.I am going to buy a 4' box blade. Depth control is the key.... a 5 foot box will stop a 35-40 hp tractor dead in its tracks....

 

[techwrtr2]

I've had the 60" stop my JD855. Had my 72" grader blade basicly stopping me yesterday, but I was trying to grade mud about 6" deep. Took a while, channel graded and area draining without making road impassible.

 

[KubotainNH]

and here is the loader joystick valve I'm thinking about getting:
Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

You could try making your own joystick setup. Go to my post and look at the pictures on posting #38. This is how Kubota used to do it. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/70830-b6100-picture-4.html

 

[Freakingstang]

Got back into the groove this week. I ended cutting the lift/boom arms apart and changing the angle to push the bucket out a little farther. I ordered the new cylinders, and was able to fab up my new boom arm mount/reinforcements. This was very time consuming as the motor on my ancient drill press died, so with a 1/2" milwaukee hand drill....

I also made some modifications to a piece of 2" angle iron that was 1/2" thick. I notched it for the driveshaft and the bellhousing nuts. This will get welded to the main cross beam for additional support. I also found a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron (1/4") that will slide between the two uprights and underneath the battery/fuel tank. I'm going to drill and tap the uprights and then weld some small tabs on the upper cross brace, again so everything is 100% removable. Once I get that done, I'll use some 1 1/4" box tubing from the uprights forward to the front frame crossover.

 

[Freakingstang]

While I was out and about checking out dealerships in the new to me area around my new house, I ran across this well built 48" box blade. It's just a little surface rust.. Should be perfect compliment to the loader for my grading needs this summer

 

[Dr Dave]

Nice looking setup, I would get the joy stick valve with extra grapple function, I have found it's cheaper to do right the first time. Also might consider a quick-tatch mount, find a used skid loader bucket. Just think of the number of accesories you can buy, or build.

 

[Freakingstang]

Nice looking setup, I would get the joy stick valve with extra grapple function, I have found it's cheaper to do right the first time. Also might consider a quick-tatch mount, find a used skid loader bucket. Just think of the number of accesories you can buy, or build.

boy, you must have been psychic...I've been thinking about that alot lately....

 

[rockshaft]

cool project. makes me want to get out and start fabricating myself!

 

[techwrtr2]

Nice looking setup, I would get the joy stick valve with extra grapple function, I have found it's cheaper to do right the first time. Also might consider a quick-tatch mount, find a used skid loader bucket. Just think of the number of accesories you can buy, or build.

boy, you must have been psychic...I've been thinking about that alot lately....

A quick attach bucket is something I really wish I had on my Beaver.

But, I don't think the skid steer quick attach is the proper route. They add a bunch of weight and length. I know that with my machine, I'd lose a lot of my lift capacity to a well built one. So I don't consider it an option.

The JDQA is something I've considered mimicking but also don't think it's quite the right idea though it doesn't add the weight and length of the SSQA.

I have an idea that should work, nothing drawn up though.

Now insofar as the 3rd function for maybe a grapple, there is no question. Do it. Since I have the JD855 with a loader, I have the grapple on pretty much all of the time. It allows me to do this..


There IS a Beaver in there, somewhere.

There it is!

I had done a bunch of tree trimming and needed to collect and transfer everything to the pile for shredding some time.

I also have a plow that attaches in place of the bucket on the Beaver, it uses the 3rd function to power angle. Haven't used it in a while since lighting on my machine stinks.

 

[Freakingstang]

one of these days I want more pics of that loader/backhoe setup...


I might make a BH later on down the road, but for me, for right now the loader is the primary need.

The more I think about it, I will do the joystick control valve, with a power beyond and use one of those two single spool valves I have currently. I'm thinking it could be for the grapple on the bucket, and then angle on the plow... I"ve got an old 6' black blade that I'm thinking abotu converting to a snow plow...but I'm also looking at cheap snowplow setups off of a small pickup or jeep.

 

[techwrtr2]

We just use the same spool for grapple and plow. No reason to have two separate ones.

 

[Freakingstang]

We just use the same spool for grapple and plow. No reason to have two separate ones.

That's what I meant... The joystick for the up/down and curl then the single spool for the plow or grapple...

 

[Freakingstang]

Was able to get some work done the last couple days. I rebuilt the bucket. I added new pivot mounts and a new curl/dump mount. I didn't have thR tractor at work so I haven't welded in the cross tube yet. I ground down all the rust, rewelded most of the bucket welds and added a new 1/4"x3" cutting edge. I even made a tooth for the one missing on the tooth bar. Then it was wire wheel time, followed by POR-15 metal ready. (spray on bare and rusted steel and turns white. It gives POR-15 a zinc phosphorous coating to adhere to). I used POR 15 chassis black then misted on some true blue while it was still tacky. Another coat followed by some clear and she'll be good forever!

All i have left to do on the fab Is install the dump cylinder crossmember, then it will be ready for hydraulics!

 

[Johndeere3720]

Was able to get some work done the last couple days. I rebuilt the bucket. I added new pivot mounts and a new curl/dump mount. I didn't have thR tractor at work so I haven't welded in the cross tube yet. I ground down all the rust, rewelded most of the bucket welds and added a new 1/4"x3" cutting edge. I even made a tooth for the one missing on the tooth bar. Then it was wire wheel time, followed by POR-15 metal ready. (spray on bare and rusted steel and turns white. It gives POR-15 a zinc phosphorous coating to adhere to). I used POR 15 chassis black then misted on some true blue while it was still tacky. Another coat followed by some clear and she'll be good forever!

All i have left to do on the fab Is install the dump cylinder crossmember, then it will be ready for hydraulics!

Looking good! I gotta say I like that blue paint, makes it look sharp. :thumbsup:

 

[Freakingstang]

Thanks. It was the closest match I could find, but slightly brighter. I'm redoing the whole tractor that color. It's darker than the ford/new holland blue.

Before....

 

[fosterchild420]

love your project! Just wondering where you sourced your 3 pt hitch arms and how much bending did you have to do to make them work?

 

[Freakingstang]

Well, I got all the fab work done this week. I shortened the lift cylinders (removed extra material from the shaft when it was fully retracted), added the boom crossmember, made up a removable front hoop, and welded in the center tie support, as well as the rear subframe. All that is left is running some hydraulic lines and hoses and ordering a joystick valve. I don't know if Im going to tap intothe tractor hydraulics or mount my aux pump setup yet.

this is the rear subframe arms. they mount to the rear, right where the three point pivot shaft is. you can't tell from the pics, but the 1 1/2" cross tube bolts on, and then the front of the arms bolt into the main crossmember

This is the front hoop. It ties the uprights into the front frame crossmember. I still have to drill two holes to boltor pin the removable hoop section into the upright (reciever)

 

[Freakingstang]

love your project! Just wondering where you sourced your 3 pt hitch arms and how much bending did you have to do to make them work?

they were huge john deere arms, I believe off a 4500 series... I had to heat the living crap out of them and then used my 25K fork lift at work to bend them... they work, and they were free, but they aren't correct. I want to get the right arms.

 

[fosterchild420]

i have the factory arms on mine and was looking to upgrade to something that would handle cat 1 3pt hitch implements. i am making a trip to Valley Power in a couple weeks and hoping he may have something. Mine are twisted up and pieced and welded (badly)back together.