ZDB
Silver Member
At about 4cents per foot, we consider it disposable. Sometimes we give our left overs to nearby home gardeners who'll reuse it.
Disc Hiller Project Got Out of Control
- Thread starter jwillett
- Start date
- Views: 25413
OP
jwillett
Silver Member
Well my upgrades did not work as well as planned but after many adjustments I finally got a few good looking rows. I should of left it alone, Soil prep is everthing and boy could I really use a rake to get the grass clumps.
Here are some updated pictures of my result as well.
Here are pictures of what I did 2 weeks ago on my first test run and their results, my peanuts are looking good.
Here are some updated pictures of my result as well.
Here are pictures of what I did 2 weeks ago on my first test run and their results, my peanuts are looking good.
Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
Lookin good for sure!
Nice Peanuts! Better then mine...had an extra row in the garden so I planted a row myself more out of curosity...dunno how they'll turn out this far north..
OP
jwillett
Silver Member
The deer found the peanuts and have about wiped them out. Glad deer season is only 2 1/2 months away, starts August 15 with rifles too!!!
DANGIT!!!
DANGIT!!!
Stampeder
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Dave:
I'd like to see more information on your bed former pls. What did you use to hold the mold boards? It looks like a cast piece. Do you have any measurements for your mold boards?
Also, what is drip tape? I use a drip irrigation system for the trees we plant but I can't say I've heard of drip tape.
Many of the sweet potato farmers here use the plastic mulch layer as well. Works very well.
Thanks.
Glenn.
I'd like to see more information on your bed former pls. What did you use to hold the mold boards? It looks like a cast piece. Do you have any measurements for your mold boards?
Also, what is drip tape? I use a drip irrigation system for the trees we plant but I can't say I've heard of drip tape.
Many of the sweet potato farmers here use the plastic mulch layer as well. Works very well.
Thanks.
Glenn.
Baby Grand
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It was a roll of the 6' wide woven stuff - the torch trick keeps the weave from fraying when the hole is cut. More than being cheap, the idea of pitching that much plastic just bothers me. A lot of our landfills are full around here, and nobody wants a new one on their street.
I really like the results of Jim's hipper. We've been using a middlebuster to make the furrows and then raking the tops together (with iron rakes) to get flat tops, which is a real time eater during planting season when everything else needs to get done yesterday ...
boggen
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rubs chin. been looking at different threads as they come up on TBN for last couple months. and remember seeing what looked like 100+HP tractor with a tiller combined with a hiller in all in one unit setup.
my question is. most 3pt hitch tillers i have seen. have a back hood that you can remove. or adjust to allow either more mulching per say of the dirt. less mulching of the dirt.
why can't you do generally tiller work first. then some how take back hood off and use some bolts to put mound shaper the rear of the tiller. so all the fluff dirt coming up and out of the rear of tiller forms right down into a shapper.
another question. the old allis chalmers CA tractor 1954 tractor approx 20 HP. pulls a 2 bottom plow pretty good. a plow does a pretty good job at pulling and turning dirt over. and moving it over to one side. my question out of all the plows out there i would imagine some company makes plows that moves dirt to the left. while another company makes a plow that moves dirt to the right. why not get one left and one right bottom plows. to help pull the loosen fluffed up dirt into the center then behind them have your shapper?
your kinda have a customized box blade in a sense but instead of wanting a level deal behind it, you are wanting hills. many times you read and i see folks put extra weight on top of the box blade to help sink scarficers down or keep the blade engaging on the box blade. so my question is. why not on the hiller?
another question many times when i am pulling the the disc on allis chalmers after i just plowed things up. the front gang of discs do a good job of pulling a lot of dirt into the center of the disc. and then the rear gang of disc do a good job of pulling the dirt back out from center and spreading things out nice. while cutting everything up nicely. so the question is. why only a couple discs on these hillers? i would think a couple rows of discs would be beneficial. so there is say 4 or more discs per hill pulling in dirt into the center of each hiller shapper
==================
i see in one of your pictures. you have kinda of a triangle foot on one side. made out of flat metal. to me, it seems like this would only cause the entire setup to "ski" up and out of the dirt or jump and skip up and down in the dirt.
the picture TDVT noted about a modified furrower. this is what pulls the entire implement down into the ground. kinda like adding weight to the unit. and holds the implement down lower into the ground. so discs sink further into the dirt and the hiller / shapper slides along like a modified box blade collecting dirt and leveling out the dirt into shape you have your hiller setup as.
for the allis chalmers CA tractor. i have a setting on the hydrualic pump. that allows "traction boost" or "weight transfer setting" basicly if there is to much load happening (implement sinking to far into ground, tires starting to spin, tractor engine starting bog down and the like) it allows the lift arms to slightly lift up and out of the dirt. so you keep on going. without constantly adjusting the up and down of the implement.
it has been some since i been near a modern tractor (that is any tractor with a 3pt hitch) but there most likely a after market option for most 3 pt hitches, that uses a spring / rod between lift arms and back of tractor. and adjusts the lift arms. i can no longer remember the specific term for this contraption / feature. that i would imagine would be a very big bonus once you are able to get the implement to pull it self down and into the ground better.
=============
plz forgive me of above, more of just thinking out loud errr typing out loud. as i myself try to figure the setup out.
my question is. most 3pt hitch tillers i have seen. have a back hood that you can remove. or adjust to allow either more mulching per say of the dirt. less mulching of the dirt.
why can't you do generally tiller work first. then some how take back hood off and use some bolts to put mound shaper the rear of the tiller. so all the fluff dirt coming up and out of the rear of tiller forms right down into a shapper.
another question. the old allis chalmers CA tractor 1954 tractor approx 20 HP. pulls a 2 bottom plow pretty good. a plow does a pretty good job at pulling and turning dirt over. and moving it over to one side. my question out of all the plows out there i would imagine some company makes plows that moves dirt to the left. while another company makes a plow that moves dirt to the right. why not get one left and one right bottom plows. to help pull the loosen fluffed up dirt into the center then behind them have your shapper?
your kinda have a customized box blade in a sense but instead of wanting a level deal behind it, you are wanting hills. many times you read and i see folks put extra weight on top of the box blade to help sink scarficers down or keep the blade engaging on the box blade. so my question is. why not on the hiller?
another question many times when i am pulling the the disc on allis chalmers after i just plowed things up. the front gang of discs do a good job of pulling a lot of dirt into the center of the disc. and then the rear gang of disc do a good job of pulling the dirt back out from center and spreading things out nice. while cutting everything up nicely. so the question is. why only a couple discs on these hillers? i would think a couple rows of discs would be beneficial. so there is say 4 or more discs per hill pulling in dirt into the center of each hiller shapper
==================
i see in one of your pictures. you have kinda of a triangle foot on one side. made out of flat metal. to me, it seems like this would only cause the entire setup to "ski" up and out of the dirt or jump and skip up and down in the dirt.
the picture TDVT noted about a modified furrower. this is what pulls the entire implement down into the ground. kinda like adding weight to the unit. and holds the implement down lower into the ground. so discs sink further into the dirt and the hiller / shapper slides along like a modified box blade collecting dirt and leveling out the dirt into shape you have your hiller setup as.
for the allis chalmers CA tractor. i have a setting on the hydrualic pump. that allows "traction boost" or "weight transfer setting" basicly if there is to much load happening (implement sinking to far into ground, tires starting to spin, tractor engine starting bog down and the like) it allows the lift arms to slightly lift up and out of the dirt. so you keep on going. without constantly adjusting the up and down of the implement.
it has been some since i been near a modern tractor (that is any tractor with a 3pt hitch) but there most likely a after market option for most 3 pt hitches, that uses a spring / rod between lift arms and back of tractor. and adjusts the lift arms. i can no longer remember the specific term for this contraption / feature. that i would imagine would be a very big bonus once you are able to get the implement to pull it self down and into the ground better.
=============
plz forgive me of above, more of just thinking out loud errr typing out loud. as i myself try to figure the setup out.
jonyyuma
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Looking for the custom made hiller that attached to the back of PTO tiller?
Taylortractornut
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Yanmar tillers had a set up for forming beds. On the rear flap they had a stay chain to hold the flap down. You could remove 2 medium plates and it made 2 6 inch hills a cople feet wide. Or remove the 2 plates and part of an upper plate andit would make a taller wider hill.
Row hippers do really good. with the 2 or 3 blades per side. THey make a nice tall wide row and can be set to cultivate to.
Row hippers do really good. with the 2 or 3 blades per side. THey make a nice tall wide row and can be set to cultivate to.
jonyyuma
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Okay, I will look into taking my solid rear flap off and making a type of gate.?? I am trying to fit at least two 12inch smooth disc blades to the rear for a pretty bed. I did see the idea of two skid plates to drag behind too..Maybe i should open another thread?
