Zebrafive
Super Member
What's the bore? I am planning on 3" for the 6415. Needs some green paint!:laughing:
New 5075M is at the dealer's!
- Thread starter AKfish
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What's the bore? I am planning on 3" for the 6415. Needs some green paint!:laughing:
Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
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- 102
- Location
- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
Last and most important question:
As some of you might remember, like pclausen, I really struggled with my tire selection. On my Bobcat A300 I have larger than normal wheels and tires, and I have never regretted my decision to choose them. Less rutting and compaction.
My machine unlike pclausen's was a 2011 5085M from a dealer's stock. It came with the Goodyear radial combo 12.4R24 / 18.4R30. If I had ordered the tractor from the factory, I think that I would have chosen the combo that pclausen did 13.6R24 / 420/85R34. Instead, I swapped the wheel tire combo that came on the machine and for additional money got 14.9R24 / 18.4R34. This is what Caledon Hills did, but the difference was that he got a wheel tire combo off of a new 6 series machine. This way he ended up with JD wheels which were setup for wheel weights. In my case I got rear wheel centers that don't work with wheel weights. I have already decided that I don't want Rimguard, so my options are to wait quite a bit longer for new wheel centers that will accept wheel weights, or go back to the original combo.
In the following thread I see that there has already been some discussioin of the fact that with the 5 series machine and the 563 / H260 loader it is desirable to at least go up to the 13.6R24 front tire.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-buying-pricing/215735-5105-m-my-first-day.html
One additional twist, JD calls for a front tire overrun of between 0% and 5%. My original 12.4R24 has just over 0%, if I stayed with the 18.4R30 in the rear, which is a pretty beefy tire, and went up to the 13.6R24 in the front that would be just shy of a 5% overrun. Final thought, although the 14.9R24 / 18.4R34 combo is very strong and has a very substantial flat plate, it does make the tractor feel even bigger and taller than it already did. I have to say that there is something to be said for trying to keep the tractor as nimble as it can be, otherwise why have a 5 series, might as well move right on up to a 6 series?
Final, final thought: I could go back to the 18.4R30 rears which easily accept wheel weights, but swap to 13.6R24 fronts with the nearly 5% overrun. I don't understand why JD doesn't offer this option. Just for reference, I believe that pcluasen's combo of 13.6R24 / 420/85R34 has an overrun of between 2.5 and 3.
Anyway, any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated on this decision.
Thank you,
Island Farmer
Below are some pictures of my tractor with the 14.9R24 / 18.4R34 combo:
As some of you might remember, like pclausen, I really struggled with my tire selection. On my Bobcat A300 I have larger than normal wheels and tires, and I have never regretted my decision to choose them. Less rutting and compaction.
My machine unlike pclausen's was a 2011 5085M from a dealer's stock. It came with the Goodyear radial combo 12.4R24 / 18.4R30. If I had ordered the tractor from the factory, I think that I would have chosen the combo that pclausen did 13.6R24 / 420/85R34. Instead, I swapped the wheel tire combo that came on the machine and for additional money got 14.9R24 / 18.4R34. This is what Caledon Hills did, but the difference was that he got a wheel tire combo off of a new 6 series machine. This way he ended up with JD wheels which were setup for wheel weights. In my case I got rear wheel centers that don't work with wheel weights. I have already decided that I don't want Rimguard, so my options are to wait quite a bit longer for new wheel centers that will accept wheel weights, or go back to the original combo.
In the following thread I see that there has already been some discussioin of the fact that with the 5 series machine and the 563 / H260 loader it is desirable to at least go up to the 13.6R24 front tire.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-buying-pricing/215735-5105-m-my-first-day.html
One additional twist, JD calls for a front tire overrun of between 0% and 5%. My original 12.4R24 has just over 0%, if I stayed with the 18.4R30 in the rear, which is a pretty beefy tire, and went up to the 13.6R24 in the front that would be just shy of a 5% overrun. Final thought, although the 14.9R24 / 18.4R34 combo is very strong and has a very substantial flat plate, it does make the tractor feel even bigger and taller than it already did. I have to say that there is something to be said for trying to keep the tractor as nimble as it can be, otherwise why have a 5 series, might as well move right on up to a 6 series?
Final, final thought: I could go back to the 18.4R30 rears which easily accept wheel weights, but swap to 13.6R24 fronts with the nearly 5% overrun. I don't understand why JD doesn't offer this option. Just for reference, I believe that pcluasen's combo of 13.6R24 / 420/85R34 has an overrun of between 2.5 and 3.
Anyway, any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated on this decision.
Thank you,
Island Farmer
Below are some pictures of my tractor with the 14.9R24 / 18.4R34 combo:
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Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
Hi Zebrafive,
I am in kind of a hurry at the moment. I can check later, but I believe that the bore is 3".
Island Farmer
Zebrafive
Super Member
Have you considered getting the wheel centers drilled for wheel weights?
Would this be a solution? Or do you want to get away from 34" wheels?
Would you gain any steering angle switching to 13.6s vs 14.9s? If so I would switch. 14.9s seem overkill on a 5000 series. If you only switched to 13.6s where that leave your overrun percent? still in range?
For the rears I doubt you would notice the difference between 18.4 30s or 34s. I think the 2" lower would make it more stable, but doubt you could tell.
Why no RimGuard? It would be my first choice for rear wheel weight. I know once it's in you can't remove and replace like wheel weights, but who does that? People put wheel weights on and leave them too.
Have you checked the ballast requirements for the loader? Sometimes no wheel ballast is not an option.
My guess on why a tire combo is not offered would be lack of demand. Most people do not do the research you have done, they just buy what is offered.
Would this be a solution? Or do you want to get away from 34" wheels?
Would you gain any steering angle switching to 13.6s vs 14.9s? If so I would switch. 14.9s seem overkill on a 5000 series. If you only switched to 13.6s where that leave your overrun percent? still in range?
For the rears I doubt you would notice the difference between 18.4 30s or 34s. I think the 2" lower would make it more stable, but doubt you could tell.
Why no RimGuard? It would be my first choice for rear wheel weight. I know once it's in you can't remove and replace like wheel weights, but who does that? People put wheel weights on and leave them too.
Have you checked the ballast requirements for the loader? Sometimes no wheel ballast is not an option.
My guess on why a tire combo is not offered would be lack of demand. Most people do not do the research you have done, they just buy what is offered.
Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
Zebrafive,
I just checked my notes, and the top link cylinder should be 3".
Island Farmer
Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
- Messages
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- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
HTML:
Zebrafive;2838785]Have you considered getting the wheel centers drilled for wheel weights?
Would this be a solution? Or do you want to get away from 34" wheels?Because these Titan wheel centers are concave, wheel weights cannot be properly mounted on them.
HTML:
Would you gain any steering angle switching to 13.6s vs 14.9s? If so I would switch. 14.9s seem overkill on a 5000 series. If you only switched to 13.6s where that leave your overrun percent? still in range?Actually, I would not gain any steering angle by switching to 13.6s, but the tractor would be over two inches lower to the ground and more compact feeling. The thing is that the rolling circumferance of the 13.6 does not work with my 18.4R34, I would have to switch to the 420/85R34 that pclausen has to make the 13.6 work.
HTML:
For the rears I doubt you would notice the difference between 18.4 30s or 34s. I think the 2" lower would make it more stable, but doubt you could tell.I am not sure about whether you could notice the differenc in top-heaviness either, but the tractor would definitely feel more compact.
HTML:
Why no RimGuard? It would be my first choice for rear wheel weight. I know once it's in you can't remove and replace like wheel weights, but who does that? People put wheel weights on and leave them too.I have decided that I just don't want to go with Rimguard, I would consider it if I didn't have the radials.
HTML:
Have you checked the ballast requirements for the loader? Sometimes no wheel ballast is not an option.With the 400 lbs. of wheel weights and either an implement or my ballast box, I will be fine.
HTML:
My guess on why a tire combo is not offered would be lack of demand. Most people do not do the research you have done, they just buy what is offered.I guess you're right, but when spending this amount of money I like to get things as right as possible.
Zebrafive
Super Member
Sounds like you're leaning towards changing tire sizes. This will solve the wheel weight mounting problem, make the tractor more stable, and not really give up much in footprint.
I do think the 13.6s will allow tighter steering unless you set them out wider than pictured, then most likely no difference. Not sure on the M series, but on the 6000 series, 71" is maximum front width recommended for a loader. 13.6s should also have more capacity then needed for the loader. So that's good.
I agree it's cheaper to do it right the first time and with a new tractor you only get one first time.
For the top link 3" is the right choice.
What did you decide on the front grill guard?
I do think the 13.6s will allow tighter steering unless you set them out wider than pictured, then most likely no difference. Not sure on the M series, but on the 6000 series, 71" is maximum front width recommended for a loader. 13.6s should also have more capacity then needed for the loader. So that's good.
I agree it's cheaper to do it right the first time and with a new tractor you only get one first time.
For the top link 3" is the right choice.
What did you decide on the front grill guard?
Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
I like this. Having the unit be as streamlined as possible should be a good thing.
Island Farmer
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2011
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- San Juan Islands, WA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5085M, Bobcat A300, Cat V50E forklift, Komatsu PC60-7
Zebrafive,
Your hood guard looks pretty beefy. Here is the best picture I have of Caledon's hood guard.
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AKfish
Super Member
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- Oct 1, 2004
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- Alaska
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- JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
I've been out of the loop for a few days... it's fertilizer time up here. Although, the ground is still way too saturated for any tractor work! 
Island Farmer's grill looks like a 6000 series, to me. Alot more HD than on my 75M. Would be an awesome feature with some heavy, extruded wire mesh welded to the framework. :thumbsup:
Excepting the height of the tractor with the 34's; they don't appear to be too wide or bulbous, bulky...
Gotta have alot of ballast! Especially.... imperative with a taller profile!
Last week, the local haygrower's had 88 tons of fertilizer shipped in - in 2,000lb bulk bags. One of the farmer's had a 5425 with a 542NSL loader and 400lbs of rear wheel wts (no fluid and no 3pt. weight/attachment) available to unload the semi and load the smaller trailers for people's farm delivery.
Standard bias ply with 18.4x30 rears. Long story short - bag on ground; fertilizer everywhere - and tractor very close to tipping over! Very, very scary to see a tractor begin to "buck and roll" off the bounce and flex of the tires; uncontrollably... until the bag slipped off the forks!
If the bag had not fallen off the forks - I'm convinced that the tractor would have rolled onto the right front wheel and pinned the loader to the ground off the right side of the boom! :shocked:
AKfish
Island Farmer's grill looks like a 6000 series, to me. Alot more HD than on my 75M. Would be an awesome feature with some heavy, extruded wire mesh welded to the framework. :thumbsup:
Excepting the height of the tractor with the 34's; they don't appear to be too wide or bulbous, bulky...
Gotta have alot of ballast! Especially.... imperative with a taller profile!
Last week, the local haygrower's had 88 tons of fertilizer shipped in - in 2,000lb bulk bags. One of the farmer's had a 5425 with a 542NSL loader and 400lbs of rear wheel wts (no fluid and no 3pt. weight/attachment) available to unload the semi and load the smaller trailers for people's farm delivery.
Standard bias ply with 18.4x30 rears. Long story short - bag on ground; fertilizer everywhere - and tractor very close to tipping over! Very, very scary to see a tractor begin to "buck and roll" off the bounce and flex of the tires; uncontrollably... until the bag slipped off the forks!
If the bag had not fallen off the forks - I'm convinced that the tractor would have rolled onto the right front wheel and pinned the loader to the ground off the right side of the boom! :shocked:
AKfish
