MY2012 5085M ordered today!

[pclausen]

Here are pictures of the hoses from the mid valve to the multicoupler. There were two big wide tie wraps on the hoses. I cut them off when I swapped from quick couplers to the multicoupler. I have not bought replacement large tie wraps yet.

Thanks Zebra! Wow, they did change a lot of things around it would appear. Your fittings point down where mine point out towards me. Your hoses also appear quite a bit shorter than mine. I also had 2 big wide tie wraps. I was able to remove mine without cutting them so that I can reuse them. I plan to re-reroute my hoses tonight.

 

[pclausen]

My plan ( when I get a hydraulic toplink) is to buy the metal top link handle from JD parts. Get a band style exhaust clamp ( I think 3 1/2" will work) Weld a block with holes drilled in it for the top link handle to the band clamp. Determine the correct positon, tghten it down and a little JD green paint and it will look and work factory.

Excellent idea! I'll probably do the exact same thing. The metal top link handle is part # R270469, right? I might just steal the one from my current top link.

 

[pclausen]

Peter,
I may have missed it, but where did you get the bolt on teeth for the bucket? I'm looking for something like that for my 410 backhoe.

JD is now offering these. Dealer used to order Woods tooth bars, but the JD teeth are cheaper (about $250 for a set of 8) vs. closer to $400 for the tooth bar, so i went the OEM route. They appear very heavy duty.

 

[Zebrafive]

Excellent idea! I'll probably do the exact same thing. The metal top link handle is part # R270469, right? I might just steal the one from my current top link.

That's the right part number for your link. If you don't plan to swap between them (probably never use the original one again) I'd just steal the handle from that link.

 

[Zebrafive]

Thanks Zebra! Wow, they did change a lot of things around it would appear. Your fittings point down where mine point out towards me. Your hoses also appear quite a bit shorter than mine. I also had 2 big wide tie wraps. I was able to remove mine without cutting them so that I can reuse them. I plan to re-reroute my hoses tonight.

I never even considered trying to remove the tie wraps I just cut 'em off Now i need to get some more. I have lots of narrow ones, just no wide ones. I'll wait until I try building a new bracket to turn the multicoupler 90 degrees.

 

[AKfish]

Thanks Zebra! Wow, they did change a lot of things around it would appear. Your fittings point down where mine point out towards me. Your hoses also appear quite a bit shorter than mine. I also had 2 big wide tie wraps. I was able to remove mine without cutting them so that I can reuse them. I plan to re-reroute my hoses tonight.

My hose configuration is identical to your's. As well, I've never liked the fact that they hang down so low below the tractor frame.

I'd be very interested to see how you re-route them.... without having to shorten 'em! (As in replacing them with shorter ones.)

AKfish

 

[Piston]

JD is now offering these. Dealer used to order Woods tooth bars, but the JD teeth are cheaper (about $250 for a set of 8) vs. closer to $400 for the tooth bar, so i went the OEM route. They appear very heavy duty.

Thank you :thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

pclausen, any chance of posting a picture of your OEM top link holder?

Thanks for the compliment on the workmanship.

 

[pclausen]

I'd be very interested to see how you re-route them.... without having to shorten 'em! (As in replacing them with shorter ones.)

Here's what I ended up with. Turned out pretty good I think.

 

[pclausen]

Had a tech from the dealer come out and hook up his laptop to my tractor to diagnose the faults I'm seeing. He was able to replicate the issue.

It looks like there is some sort of issue with communications between a couple of the computer modules. It is intermittent. He's going back to do some research to see if this is something others have experienced. If not, it will mean starting the pull all the covers and start checking all the connectors to each module.

He even suggested that maybe I pulled something loose when installing the options I did myself.

 

[Martian]

pclausen, any chance of posting a picture of your OEM top link holder?

Thanks for the compliment on the workmanship.

There's a pretty good picture at post #291

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There's a pretty good picture at post #291

You're right, thanks Martian

 

[pclausen]

Brian, here are some better pictures of both the OEM top link holder and the "handle" and how the handle is connected to the top link.

Are you thinking of fabricating and offering an add-on kit for this?

 

[Zebrafive]

Peter your hose routing looks 10 times better than the dealer did :thumbsup:

Brian might be able to weld a lug for the handle d1rectly to the cylinder, something I'd be afraid to do. My luck I'd distort the cylinder or melt something inside. Reason I was going to explore a clamp on option.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Peter your hose routing looks 10 times better than the dealer did :thumbsup:

Brian might be able to weld a lug for the handle d1rectly to the cylinder, something I'd be afraid to do. My luck I'd distort the cylinder or melt something inside. Reason I was going to explore a clamp on option.

Clamp on option is probably the easiest and safest. I know that most of the time the OEM top link retainer can be modified in some way so that it can be used to hold a hydraulic top link. But as we all know, bungee cords are a lot easier and most people don't or can't do the modifications required to be able to make use of the OEM retainer.

pclausen, as far as the pictures, I just wanted to see what you had to work with. The clamp on bracket is probably going to be the easiest solution.

 

[pclausen]

pclausen, as far as the pictures, I just wanted to see what you had to work with. The clamp on bracket is probably going to be the easiest solution.

Ok, thanks Brian. That's what I'll pursue then.

Btw, you were right, I should probably have opted for slightly longer hoses.

I'll see how this works out and if the 90's twist loose with this configuration or not.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

pclausen, put the 90 at the tractor end at a 90 to the cylinder pointing to the right as it is, but 90* to the cylinder . Put the 90 at the rod end pointed straight back towards the tractor and put the hose back over to the left side. That should work out for you, if not, a couple of hoses would be pretty cheap.

 

[Zebrafive]

Ok, thanks Brian. That's what I'll pursue then.

Btw, you were right, I should probably have opted for slightly longer hoses.

I'll see how this works out and if the 90's twist loose with this configuration or not.

How long of hoses did you use? 24"? Also I see the toplink is resting on the PTO guard. I don't see the toplink ever being that low in actual use.

Might try a straight fitting at the head end of the cylinder and pointing the 90 towards the tractor, maybe at 1 o'clock.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

How long of hoses did you use? 24"? Also I see the toplink is resting on the PTO guard. I don't see the toplink ever being that low in actual use.

Might try a straight fitting at the head end of the cylinder and pointing the 90 towards the tractor, maybe at 1 o'clock.

It is best to have a loop of some kind. That relieves stress put on the fittings. I recommend 30" or 36" long hoses and to have the 90* fittings pointing back towards the implement. That gets you the loop in the hoses.

 

[Zebrafive]

It is best to have a loop of some kind. That relieves stress put on the fittings. I recommend 30" or 36" long hoses and to have the 90* fittings pointing back towards the implement. That gets you the loop in the hoses.

I agree the 90s pointing towards the implement and longer hoses would be the best.

My first suggestion was to try and make better what he has.