Hayloft is Crashing Down! Help!

[MarkV]

Hey Fred, wasn't trying to criticize your choice to use screws, just pointing out to those not as well informed as you that you have to use the proper screws for things like joist hanger if you want to meet code. No offense intended if any was taken.

MarkV

 

[MarkV]

Hey Fred, wasn't trying to criticize your choice to use screws, just pointing out to those not as well informed as you that you have to use the proper screws for things like joist hanger if you want to meet code. No offense intended if any was taken.

MarkV

 

[FredH]

No Offense taken Mark :thumbsup: , Know exactly what your saying . On another note , if one goes to say Home Depot or Lowes and looks at those brackets , there are several " Types " so to speak . These usually range in price from $ .90 cents upwards of $ 6 or more . Why ?? Check the Thickness . Cheaper one's are say 22 gauge while the more expensive are like 16 gauge , ( not actual thickness , just saying you can sure tell the difference when you hold them ) . So I tend to go the more expensive route , especially when I build something that I am going to be walking under .

Fred H.

 

[leonz]

I understand what you're saying, but I didn't look that close. The nails might have been of appropriate length but I can't say one way or the other. But it wouldn't really surprise me if the nails were wrong. There were other stupid things done. The hangers were shorter than I think should have been used.

As other's here have stated, I sure wouldn't use hangers. I would have used a much stronger carrier system bolted to the posts and have placed the joists on top of the carriers. I probably won't be back there for a week or two.

Perhaps the best way is to use several basement support
jacks (the type that you use to support an open span in a
basement to support the upper floor joists at the outer edges
and using a double layer of two by sixes along the entire length
on both sides.

This is not safe condition in any case as the entire floor could fall in
on one side dumping all the hay and possibly causing harm to a horse
or a person.

The time consuming part will be digging holes for sonotubes to pour concrete
to support the posts to support the joists at the ends.

 

[aczlan]

The time consuming part will be digging holes for sonotubes to pour concrete
to support the posts to support the joists at the ends.

The problem is not a lack of strength in the vertical members, it is a lack of support in between them. Probably bolting a pair of 2x12s that are glued and screwed together with a piece of 3/4" ply in the middle to the uprights right under the joists would do the trick.

Aaron Z

 

[GPintheMitten]

My daughter texted me that the Amish barn builder is out there today doing the repairs and reinforcement. It will be at least a week til I get out there to take pics. But Ill give you an update when I can.

 

[LD1]

Looking forward to see how they tackle the repair:thumbsup:

 

[schweizer]

Wow, interesting thread. Wish I had found it sooner. The Amish barn builder will get it right, for sure. I'm in the middle of building my barn so barn threads are always good-reads. It's sort of late to the party, but that whole loft looks underbuilt for the amount of hay (6-7 bales high at the peak) your daughter put in there. I know it's been stated earlier in the thread, but I like calcs, so here goes:

By my calculations, 1 bale is around 18" x 36" floor area & 50-60 lbs --> 60 lbs/4.5 ft2 = 13 lbs/ft2.
At 6 bales high that's 80 lbs/ft2 live load.
Total load = live load + dead load (average 20 lbs/ft2) = ~100 lbs/ft2.

I can totally understand why the 2x10's supporting the loft joists bowed out under that load. The loft decking probably kept them from spreading on the top half, but on the bottom half, where the joist hangers are, the 2x10's just twisted laterally. It's amazing the whole thing was still supported by that conduit and the decking.

On the barn I'm building, I designed for "only" 70 lbs/ft2 in the loft and I used 6x12 glue-lam girders to support 12" wood I-beams (BCI's) 16"OC. The girders are resting on vertically oriented 2x6's bolted to the posts with 3/4" bolts. (True, I did use metal hangers for the individual BCI's.) Example 2/3 down the page:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-building-old-fashioned-appearance-new-5.html

Glad you're all still alive!
Marcus

P.S.: There was a little discussion about using screws for joist hangers. Look at the difference in thickness between most screws (don't know which you're using) and TECO joist hanger nails. TECO joist hanger nails are about 50% thicker than deck screws. Just sayin'. Those Simpson Strong Drive screws are the only ones that I would use personally.

 

[GPintheMitten]

You are building a nice barn, Marcus. The hangers you are using are much better than those used in the barn my daughter is renting.

Your hangers are full height and look like they wrap over the top of the carrier. Not to mention the carriers are hefty. It's good to see someone doing such a good job.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I stopped by my daughters horse barn last weekend. Here's Levi's repairs.