Smashed GN trailer into back of my 5058M :(

[murphy1244]

Zebra, you're right. When taking a second look, I did see where all 3 wires terminated at the "metripak".

Dan D, yes I was very lucky and will change my way of handing my trailer going forward for sure!

At this point I got the cab pretty much stripped down as much as I can while still leaving the tractor in a condition where I can drive it onto the trailer for transport to the dealer.

Here's the right fender:

Left fender:

SCV levers and 540/E540 PTO selector:

FEL joystick assembly:

Cab floorboard:

I stopped by the dealer yesterday and picked up the rear glass pane and new weatherstrip:

On the weatherstrip, looks like I'll have to wrap in on (figured I'll start at top center), and then trim it to size. The original was once piece. I guess I'll need to get some adhesive and glue the 2 ends together? Any advice on what adhesive to use and how to make a nice clean cut? The weatherstrip has a metal band in it.

Pete, That is the same weather strip we used at VanDorn on our machines. The start - end is at the bottom not top. Can you install the glass on the door on saw horses? If so I will explain how we did it.

 

[murphy1244]

Thanks for the links to sealants/adhesives. I like the black sealant one.

I try a hacksaw to ensure a straight cut across the entire piece. I'll cut is slightly long so that I can clean up the rough edge.

Tell me there is no metal in the door strip.

 

[pclausen]

Pete, That is the same weather strip we used at VanDorn on our machines. The start - end is at the bottom not top. Can you install the glass on the door on saw horses? If so I will explain how we did it.

My thinking for wanting to start/end at the top is that the bottom would is where the handle to open the rear window is and it would be more expose to be touching it and or debris from rear implements. The cab roof has quite an overhand, so I don't envision any leaks from having it at the top. Maybe there are other factors I'm not considering that would make having the seam at the bottom preferable?

The rear glass pane is not that big. My plan was rest the pane on a pair of 6x6 scrap pieces on the floor (or table) so that I have access to work the weatherstip onto the glass edge all around the pane.

 

[pclausen]

Tell me there is no metal in the door strip.

The weatherstrip has like a c-channel flexible metal strip in it. This is what grips the glass edge and keeps it from working its way of the glass.

 

[murphy1244]

The weatherstrip has like a c-channel flexible metal strip in it. This is what grips the glass edge and keeps it from working its way of the glass.

Then sorry I can't help cause its not what I worked with. Ours had no metal in it. We laid the doors on saw horses to bring it up to workable height. then pushed the strip on the edge starting at the bottom working all around the frame. Then cut the strip a 1\4 in ch longer then wedged the two ends together. The glass is laid on top of the opening and starting from any side with a tool like a cotter pin puller we worked the seal in. The next step is to zipper in the final seal, the tool for that was a screw driver style handle with a 1\8 inch pin sticking out with a bearing of to the side.
Ask your dealer if he has those two special tools.

 

[murphy1244]

The weatherstrip has like a c-channel flexible metal strip in it. This is what grips the glass edge and keeps it from working its way of the glass.

.
Ask your dealer if he has those two special tools.

 

[Zebrafive]

Any reason you ca't use old weather strip, other than you have to pick out the old glass? Adhesive maybe?
I was thinking seam at bottom too.

 

[Zebrafive]

Any reason you ca't use old weather strip, other than you have to pick out the old glass? Adhesive maybe?
I was thinking seam at bottom too.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Then sorry I can't help cause its not what I worked with. Ours had no metal in it. We laid the doors on saw horses to bring it up to workable height. then pushed the strip on the edge starting at the bottom working all around the frame. Then cut the strip a 1\4 in ch longer then wedged the two ends together. The glass is laid on top of the opening and starting from any side with a tool like a cotter pin puller we worked the seal in. The next step is to zipper in the final seal, the tool for that was a screw driver style handle with a 1\8 inch pin sticking out with a bearing of to the side.
Ask your dealer if he has those two special tools.

.
Ask your dealer if he has those two special tools.

what you are talking about and what he has are different, yours is moulding to hold the glass in the frame(non openable) and his the molding is just a weather seal, and the window opens so the same tools do not apply.

 

[pclausen]

Any reason you can't use old weather strip, other than you have to pick out the old glass? Adhesive maybe?
I was thinking seam at bottom too.

There was a rip in the old weatherstrip where the GN hit it, otherwise that was my plan. I'll take a closer look at it to see if there is a seam it in somewhere. I think with the metal insert, it would not stretch, so reusing it might not have been an option, unless one rips the seam open and redo it once installed.