Scraper blade or box blade?

[Missouri Pioneer]

I have a 55 hp 4WD tractor and a 7' Modern Box blade that really does a great job. Modern blades are, I believe, the only ones that are galvanized, so they won't rust like everything else.

I echo the recommendations above to get the best, heaviest box blade you can afford, preferably used.

With a previous tractor, I had a back blade, which I found to be absolutely worthless. My .02.

 

[DENALIAKITAS]

Anyone know anything about this box blade? Local ad for $300 but owner doesnt know anything about it Box Blade or this one? 6 ft Box Blade with rippers maybe this one? http://eastco.craigslist.org/grd/3420701272.html

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I doubt than any of those are more than 500-600lbs. I would keep looking, but that might just be me.

 

[DENALIAKITAS]

What about adding weight to one? Bad idea?

 

[Don87]

What about adding weight to one? Bad idea?

There was someone on TBN that welded railroad rails to the top of a boxblade for extra weight.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What about adding weight to one? Bad idea?

Typically I'm against that. :thumbdown: But for your purposes since you aren't really doing all that much dirt work and what seems like the main use is a counter weight, I would say that you would be fine in doing that. A nice complete engine with some exhaust, setting on there could actually look intriguing. ptimist:

 

[crazyal]

My advice would be to use your tractor to fix your driveway first. If you're having issues with ruts then what you need is to put some road fabric down and then 4" to 6" of crusher run gravel on top of it. Once you do that a lighter blades will work.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I bought my rear scaper blade first because of cost and i wanted it for snow removal this winter.
I wanted the option of being able to angle it.
My plans are to fabricate a cylinder set-up on it this winter after I add 2 sets of remotes next week.
While the blade was less expensive it is not very heavy. I have been using it to maintain about 600' of gravel road for a few neighbors trying to keep the potholes down.
It is not the ideal blade for thet type of work with a heavily packed suface. I have roads to improve this spring on my parents property and will most likely be getting a box blade for that work in the woods.
A scraper blade can be strenghtened but it has a limit to its usefullness.

 

[yelbike]

Typically I'm against that. :thumbdown: But for your purposes since you aren't really doing all that much dirt work and what seems like the main use is a counter weight, I would say that you would be fine in doing that. A nice complete engine with some exhaust, setting on there could actually look intriguing. ptimist:

I'm curious why you suggest not to add weight to a box blade. Reading this tread is making me wounder if my box blades are heavy enough, when the ground is really dry it seems to ride on top.

To the OP, since i bought my first box blade, my rear blade has only seen snow removal duties.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm curious why you suggest not to add weight to a box blade. Reading this tread is making me wounder if my box blades are heavy enough, when the ground is really dry it seems to ride on top.

To the OP, since i bought my first box blade, my rear blade has only seen snow removal duties.

If you have a box blade that is made with 1/4" steel, it then has that amount of strength. The 1/4" units are only so strong. Now if you add weight to get it up to the weight of a unit that is built with 3/8", you are now putting stresses on a unit that is built with 1/4" that has to take the stress of one that would normally be built with 3/8". It is only as strong as a 1/4" unit and when the additional stress is put on the unit from the extra weight, the 1/4" unit will eventually fail. If you need a light duty implement to work like a medium or heavy duty unit, then you need the heavier unit. They all have their proper place and uses.

There are conditions where even a 1400lb blade just rides on top.