Chainsaw - Sharpening Chains

[muddstopper]

I just some here know the difference in a rat tail file and a chainsaw file. I have never used or seen anybody use a rat tail file to file a chainsaw chain. With that said, I use a cheap harborfreight grinder all the time. I can change a chain as fast or faster than I can file a chain by hand so I take several with me when I am cutting wood. When I get home, I grinde the dull chains, but then I always hit them a couple or three licks with a chainsaw file. I have found that the grinders do a good job of squareing the chain back to the right angles, but it also seems to leave a little burr on the tooth just sharpened. If i take a file and knock this burr off, the chains seem to cut better and stay sharp longer. Works for me.

 

[DKCDKC]

I've had a Stihl since '94 - been through 2.5 bars and a handful of chains. Sharp chains are wonderful. So it money. I look at the cords of wood I cut each year as purchased at the depreciated cost of the chainsaw, its parts, other equipment, etc. I like to keep it cheap. Stihl makes a fantastic saw. I have it tuned professionally every 5 years. I carry a chainsaw file in the case with the saw. I "touch it up" whenever I feel it slowing or curving in the wood. After I file it 6 to 8 times, I swap the chain out and keep going. I always have 3 or 4 since I'm usually well away from stores. The dulled blades are checked in my shop. If they appear not too bad, I may bench sharpen them by hand. Most of the time I take them to a local Stihl dealer who has always been good. I pay $5 or $6 for sharpening - 18 inch blade. When blades get thin and can't be sharpened again, I keep 'em around for use cutting wood that is contaminated with rock, dirt or fence nails.

Looking at the amount of cutting I do - using wood for supplemental heating only - and donation to charity - my little system seems to most efficient and economical way to do it. But, as this thread shows, there are many correct opinions on keeping blades sharp - and many ways of cutting wood.
"

 

[LWG]

I use the Dremel all the time. I used to have the little guide attachment, but it disappeared and I didn't really need it anyway. I have a 12v model, and carry an old lawn tractor battery with me. It works great. It's not much to carry and I don't have to remove the chain from the bar. If I am working with the Bobcat, I have a little extension cord that clips onto the battery and that's all I need. I have one of the Northern Tool bar mounted 12v grinders, but it's a lot more work to set up, and I can do a 20" chain in just a minute or two with the Dremel.

 

[deerseeker001]

This sounds like a good job for the elcheapo Harbor Freight chain saw sharpener. It will pay for itself on the sharpening of 2 chains if you are paying someone to sharpen them. It worked well for me on some chains that had hit some fencing and rocks when clearing the fence line. They came out good as new. Very simple to set up and adjust so it just takes a small bit off each tooth(just a few sparks). The plastic housing has a little flex to it which is good for putting a little side pressure on a tooth that has a ding. DONT have to adjust the machine that way for just a tooth or two. Set if for the average cut needed to sharpen and when finding a tooth in need of a bit more, just put a little side pressure on the machine, it doesnt take much just enough to remove any burr that might be there from hitting metal or rock.

i have a harbor freight chain sharpener have had it for about 3 years and i couldn't be happier.i wish i would have bought one years ago.

 

[clemsonfor]

Once the bar is clamped into the vice, a tooth is marked as the starting point, the chain moves freely on the bar, yes I can do one pass with a file per tooth on a 20 in bar in just over 60 seconds. I really don't give a rats rectal orifice if you believe it or not, as to make a comment like that you are quite likely a rectal orifice yourself.

I think my 20" chain has 72 drive links if i remember right, doesnt that mean 36 cutters? thats 2 seconds a tooth! doable but really moving!!

 

[clemsonfor]

Interesting opinion - funny thing is I can't recall seeing too many loggers using bench grinders on the tree line......could be prove to be quite an education if you choose to call these guy's "kids" View attachment 293278 .......But I guess if you're felling toothpicks you don't need the accuracy of hand filing .....:sarcastic:

I dont see loggers in the woods with grinders either, but they do take them off every few days and sharpen them in the shop on one!!!

I am a forester so i deal with quite a few loggers!!

 

[clemsonfor]

With all these opinions, doesn't anyone else use the Dremel sharpening tool? I like it because it's quick and I don't have to take the chain off the saw. I used to hand sharpen, but the Dremel is so much faster and more accurate, and costs so little if you already have the Dremel tool, I don't see a reason to do it by hand.

My cutting buddy uses one and swears by it, but for some reason i always am still cutting and he is out saying my "saw is so dull im doing no good". This is while i hand sharpened and esp now that i grind it. If you grind you can still just kiss the tooth to get it back sharp, that is unless you got in dirt or hit rocks and got to get a chip out or something. Well he uses one of those electric hand jobs which is basically a cheal low powered dedicated dremel type tool with chain sharpening stones in it.

Also i have a still rollomatic bar and it has no greese hole to fill!!

 

[clemsonfor]

I've had a Stihl since '94 - been through 2.5 bars and a handful of chains. Sharp chains are wonderful. So it money. I look at the cords of wood I cut each year as purchased at the depreciated cost of the chainsaw, its parts, other equipment, etc. I like to keep it cheap. Stihl makes a fantastic saw. I have it tuned professionally every 5 years. I carry a chainsaw file in the case with the saw. I "touch it up" whenever I feel it slowing or curving in the wood. After I file it 6 to 8 times, I swap the chain out and keep going. I always have 3 or 4 since I'm usually well away from stores. The dulled blades are checked in my shop. If they appear not too bad, I may bench sharpen them by hand. Most of the time I take them to a local Stihl dealer who has always been good. I pay $5 or $6 for sharpening - 18 inch blade. When blades get thin and can't be sharpened again, I keep 'em around for use cutting wood that is contaminated with rock, dirt or fence nails.

Looking at the amount of cutting I do - using wood for supplemental heating only - and donation to charity - my little system seems to most efficient and economical way to do it. But, as this thread shows, there are many correct opinions on keeping blades sharp - and many ways of cutting wood.
"

What is a "blade" sometimes it sounds like your referring to your bar and others your chains? This is very confusing. Seriously im not poking fun at your terminology.

 

[tungularafishcamp]

YES - there is only ONE correct way - the way that works for the guy with the chain. I know guys that wouldn't touch a grinder but only file, guys that won't file but use a grinder, and guys that only buy new chains. They all saw wood well.

Keep your rakers low, your top plate angle correct and your cutting corner sharp.

Now dont forget those of us who just throw the saw away when the chain gets dull and buy a new saw:laughing:

 

[tractorshopper]

Has anyone tried that Oregon PowerSharp thing? I don't know if it's just a gimmick or not and don't want to be the first to try it. It's where the special chain is purchased with a sharpener you mount to the end of the saw and the curved stone in the sharpener sharpens the top of the teeth. You push down while throttling the saw for a few seconds and it sharpens the entire chain evenly.