MF 165 knocking

[Gale Hawkins]

You put it on the bearing surfaces, under the caps. The residue you see outside the caps is just squeezed out as the cap bolts are tightened. It's also great for many other things too.

I guess it in no way interferes with the tightening forces?

 

[MasseyWV]

I guess it in no way interferes with the tightening forces?

No, because it's not trapped.

The tolerances between the bearing surface and crankshaft journal are tight, typically 1.5 to 3 thousandths of an inch, but it's more than enough room to allow excess white grease to escape, while leaving a sufficient amount behind to lubricate them until the engine's lubrication system establishes good oil flow and pressure.

When assembling engines, I've used Lubriplate #105 exclusively for more than 25 years and never had a problem.

 

[DaButcher]

Lookin good Butcher..:thumbsup: -kid

Thanks Kid

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks Gale. MasseyWV had a great description of the Lubriplate #105 that was used during assembly. Another advantage is the assembly grease will stay in place indefinitely unlike using engine oil, so if there is a delay in getting the engine going the crankshaft will still have proper lubrication on initial startup. I also literaly dipped the piston assembly in a bucket of oil before installing in the bores and put the new oil pump in the same oil and primed it before install.

What/why is the stuff around the rod caps that looks like white grease in the photo to me.

Again you do good work and thanks for continuing to take the photos and post them.

 

[DaButcher]

More progress

Head was milled and got all new valves

Head gasket is different from the original copper, the small amount of copper it does have goes to the top

Torqued to 20 then 42 then 60 ft lb

Glad to have it off the engine stand ready for trans adapter and clutch

 

[Rivendale]

Butcher, I've been following this post and I have to say congrats and it is looking GREAT

 

[The kid]

Your not going to write a book too are you? :laughing::laughing: or start a fan club.

 

[MasseyWV]

Looks great. :thumbsup:

 

[DaButcher]

Heck NO, My second Perkins rebuild and certainly not a expert by any means. The first Perkins was in 1980 on a much larger MF, something like a 1150 (guessing model, really don't remember) with duel tires, cab and dash mounted transmisson shifters that locked up all the time. That rebuild was part a apprentice mechanic program and at least 4 others were in on the rebuild. About all I remember is freezing the liners before install.

Your not going to write a book too are you? :laughing::laughing: or start a fan club.

 

[DaButcher]

I appreciate all the complements, crossing my fingers that it is all done right and runs like it should. Should make smoke soon.

I have been thinking about the break in process. I know there is LOTS of opinions on how to do it. I've had luck with no idle and basically run it like you stole it. My problem is I don't have any equipment yet to really work this tractor hard, only have a 8ft landscape rake and 7ft blade. Been searching for a 3 point shredder used with no luck yet.

 

[namyessam]

I was in the same situation after I finished the rebuild on mine. The guy at the automotive machine shop told me to chain it to a tree and spin the tires for a few minutes is all that was required to seat the rings. Worked for a Massey dealer back in the early 70's and had a customer get his 1130 hot and siezed the engine. We had a terrible time getting the sleeves out as they were dry sleeves. The factory told us to weld up and down in the liners to shrink them so they could be pulled out. We also had to freeze the new ones to get them in.

 

[DaButcher]

Good idea, but I'm hesitate to do that because the rear tires are original and not in the best shape as you can imagine.

I was in the same situation after I finished the rebuild on mine. The guy at the automotive machine shop told me to chain it to a tree and spin the tires for a few minutes is all that was required to seat the rings.

 

[namyessam]

It seemed pretty weird to me and still does. I never did it. I got done with the rebuild early winter and it started to snow and never stopped. I had to hurry and get the loader on and pushed snow with the rear blade most of the time. I just didn't let it idle very long.

 

[namyessam]

DaButcher, I got a chance to read your whole thread and see you have done a great job in the rebuild. If the results are anything like the work put in it, you should have a strong running tractor that will last a long time. I was surprised in how the dry sleeves were removed. I would have never guessed that they would peel out like they did. Hutch sure knows his stuff. This will be good info for if a larger MF diesel is in my future. Makes me wonder if I am mistaken about welding on the 1130 sleeves back in the early 70's. Is old age playing games with my mind? Working for the Massey dealer has given me some insight in to these tractors but I was young and dumb at the time and could have learned a lot more.

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks namyessam......I don't think you are mistaken about the welding of the sleeves, several people have told me they used that method with success.

DaButcher, I got a chance to read your whole thread and see you have done a great job in the rebuild. If the results are anything like the work put in it, you should have a strong running tractor that will last a long time. I was surprised in how the dry sleeves were removed. I would have never guessed that they would peel out like they did. Hutch sure knows his stuff. This will be good info for if a larger MF diesel is in my future. Makes me wonder if I am mistaken about welding on the 1130 sleeves back in the early 70's. Is old age playing games with my mind? Working for the Massey dealer has given me some insight in to these tractors but I was young and dumb at the time and could have learned a lot more.

 

[DaButcher]

Got the engine stabbed last night, not easy without help but doable using the "eyeball it" method to line up the clutches, then follow Shona's advise of a couple studs and constant measuring to assure it goes in straight and level. Still have some parts to put on the engine and bolt the front end back on, but shouldn't take to long. Hope to make some smoke very sooooooon.

 

[The kid]

Texwing needs to pay attention to what your doing. He thinks he's going to have to replace/rebuild the oil pump. His is a Continental but the basic breakdown is the same. Looking good Butcha :thumbsup: -kid

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks to everyone who helped me through this. Got it running today and it sounds really good and strong, the only issue I see is the injection pump shafts leak fuel, I'll take care of that later.

Some of the Tisco gaskets were not cut perfectly

When I got the tractor the alternator bracket was broke, so I bought heavy duty brackets off a industrial version of this tractor at the local MF dealer.

At this point I went ahead and cranked the motor to make sure oil pressure was good

This is the pressure at starter cranking speed

With steer axle in place about 8 hours of work later is when I started it

 

[The kid]

Thanks to everyone who helped me through this. Got it running today and it sounds really good and strong, the only issue I see is the injection pump shafts leak fuel, I'll take care of that later.

I posted some links yesterday on some info I found to fix that leak without removing the pump. From what I've read , it's tricky but can be done. -kid

 

[DaButcher]

Ya, it's no big deal, I've done several on Ford and Isuzu engines

I posted some links yesterday on some info I found to fix that leak without removing the pump. From what I've read , it's tricky but can be done. -kid