MF 165 knocking

[DaButcher]

Purchased the MF 165 from a family friend for salvage value. Perkins Diesel that has a knock like someone is tapping with a hammer. Appears to be a small amount of engine oil the the coolant also, but not visa versa. Seller says it is a 1974 model. If the engine is worth repairing it will also need brakes to make it comfortable to use. If I learn to appreciate this tractor like many of you on here she may get a nice restoration. I have her stripped down to the point of fuel tank is ready to come off.

What do you guys think? I'm thinking rod bearing or wrist pin. Oh yea, good chance it was ran hot. The coolant gauge does not work, it has a new radiator hose and real purdy green coolant.

 

[Knifer]

Purchased the MF 165 from a family friend for salvage value. Perkins Diesel that has a knock like someone is tapping with a hammer. Appears to be a small amount of engine oil the the coolant also, but not visa versa. Seller says it is a 1974 model. If the engine is worth repairing it will also need brakes to make it comfortable to use. If I learn to appreciate this tractor like many of you on here she may get a nice restoration. I have her stripped down to the point of fuel tank is ready to come off.

What do you guys think? I'm thinking rod bearing or wrist pin. Oh yea, good chance it was ran hot. The coolant gauge does not work, it has a new radiator hose and real purdy green coolant.

sounds like a cracked head or blown gasket hard to tell with out breaking it down. The knock could be a lot of things as well. I would tear the engine apart and check it out before doing alot of restoring. Go from there and let that be the deciding factor.

 

[The kid]

First think you need to do is goto AGCO Parts Books and purchase the service and parts manuals, you might as well get the operators manual and have the whole set. These will aid you if you decide to brake it down. If it's something like a bad head, you can find good ones at salvage yards all over the country. Is that a flowmaster on the exhaust stack?

 

[shona13]

g,Day DaButcher.

Make sure there is plenty of oil in the sump ,start the engine and have a look at the oil pressure ,if the oil pressure is low it is most likely a bearing ,main or big end It is pretty difficult to give an accurate opinion without hearing it ,If say the knock is coming more from the mid to upper part of the engine then yes a gudgoen /wrist pin bearing.

You would find the 165 a very handy tractor and looking at the pics it looks like it would be worth overhauling the engine.
Generally where possible I use genuine parts in all of my Massey repairs mainly from the fact that i give warranty and using non genuine parts create problems down the track.

I am not saying that non genuine parts are not quality and it may suit you to go along that road this would be a decission only you could make.

Generally providing the main elements of the engine ,the crankshaft ,cylinder block and cylinder head are all Serviceable Perkins engines are very reasonable to overhaul.
This is all I can offer ,keep us all posted and post some pics.
happy Days .
Hutch.

 

[flyingcow]

Looking at that pic, makes me miss my MF180 i sold. Those Perkins are a nice running motor. Just overall a nice sized tractor for the $$$'s. Nice hp, light weight, walks across soft ground very nice.

I had a complete set of manuals, repair and the whole works. Priceless to have. I thought they were easy to understand too. No computer codes to read, go to to love it!

 

[DaButcher]

I apprecitae the replies.

shona13 ..........I don't know how accurate the oil pressure gauge is, but it is almost pegged out when it starts. I do think the knock is high in the block. I also like OEM parts when reasonable, just seems there is a better chance for quality. Is my thinking correct that the pan can be removed without splitting the tractor? As for as pics, I will take plenty so share. Might do a video before teardown so you can hear the knock.

It may be November before I get it tore down. When I decide to repair then I'll get the proper manuals. Thanks for the link The kid.

Best case for me would be one bad rod with no crank or head damage, then I would not hesitate to in-frame the rest of the engine and that would highly influence me to continue with a moderate restoration and fix whatever else needs fixin.

 

[DaButcher]

Is that a flowmaster on the exhaust stack?

Hmmm, it may be. Possible this is a 100hp plowing demon.

 

[shona13]

G,Day DaButcher.

Yes you can remove the sump without removing the front axle ,you have to remove the STUDS that attach the front assembly to the engine two each side only,support the weight of the tractor from around the clutch housing area and IMPORTANT do not allow the weight to come down on the two studs that are left holding the front axle assembly on or YOU COULD BREAK THE HOUSING$$$$$$$$$$.

It is by far in the long run and safer to remove the complete front axle assembly.

The first thing to do is remove the bonnet and the fuel tank ,siphon the fuel out first ,Much easier to handle then undo the fuel pipe from the isolation tap and the return line at the front of the tank ,then take the complete tank frame and tank of in one piece ,if you look under the tank you will see the rubber tank mounts you want to remove all at once ,NOTE: when removing the front axle assembly install wooden wedges between the Swiveling axle beam and the front axle housing this makes it a lot easier and safer to deal with the assembly when relocating it ,use a long Pinch bar ,lever about six foot long is good and push it inside the hollow front axle swivel pin then get someone to help ,holding the bar and keep the assembly UPRIGHT dont let it lean back or forward and when you get it away from the work site rest the bar on a stump or something STABLE leaning the assembly slightly towards the front so that it wont tip back ,for safety sake you should secure the lot with rope or something strong enough to handle the weight the rest is easy and you have something to work on at a nice working height, IMPORTANT: Make sure if you are working say inside a shed or a restricted access area that you consider the fact that you will at some time need to get the engine out possibly using a chain block and a trolley so give yourself plenty of room,make it easy, easy is good,and dont forget the clutch when you have gone this far.

Happy Days.
Hutch.

 

[leveled]

i had a 165 that sounded like that and it was in the transmission not the engine.

 

[DaButcher]

i had a 165 that sounded like that and it was in the transmission not the engine.

Interesting, did you figure that out before engine disassembly? If so could you explain how? The knock appears to go away when I crack the injector line that goes to the rear cylinder.

Hutch that is good info. Based on your explanation I will remove the front axle assembly.