Upgrade from JD 2305 to 2320 then too ???? or am I crazy?

[jenkinsph]

Dagoof,

Depends on the tiller a six tine such as the 655 Deere would be a better match for a 2520. You would be able to till deeper than my Howard and recognize you can increase your ground speed to match what the tractor can handle. I can use the 60" Howard behind my 749 at a very slow pace but the 4520 can run the 6' 673 up to about 2.0 mph at full depth. One of the other members in my locale has a 2520 with a 647 tiller and is satisfied with it too. Might save a few bucks and again you could pull it slightly faster than the 655 the amount of time to cover an acre of ground works out about the same. I use the Howard 60" because I already had it on hand I would prefer to have the 647 tiller for the lawn tractor if buying new. Hope this makes some sense to you.

 

[yelbike]

Dagoof,

Depends on the tiller a six tine such as the 655 Deere would be a better match for a 2520. You would be able to till deeper than my Howard and recognize you can increase your ground speed to match what the tractor can handle. I can use the 60" Howard behind my 749 at a very slow pace but the 4520 can run the 6' 673 up to about 2.0 mph at full depth. One of the other members in my locale has a 2520 with a 647 tiller and is satisfied with it too. Might save a few bucks and again you could pull it slightly faster than the 655 the amount of time to cover an acre of ground works out about the same. I use the Howard 60" because I already had it on hand I would prefer to have the 647 tiller for the lawn tractor if buying new. Hope this makes some sense to you.

My dad has the 647, its beat up, only about four years old. Chain broke a couple of times, the gear/chain case cover is cracked and now the seal between the chain case and the shaft which holds the tines leaks. I'm by no means knocking Deere products, but I was not impressed with the 647 at all. I had one too and I couldn't get rid of it fast enough. I don't know if our soil is to hard but the Deere tiller just bounced around alot. He king kutter totally out performed....if hadn't seen it with my own eyes I would be a non believer.

Time has past since I started this tread, I now think the tiller is to large for the tractor but I don't want buy a 655 after my experience with the 647. I think a 54" tiller would be a better fit then my 60".
I just don't till full depth on the tree lines so the ground speed stays reasonable. I do till full depth in the garden though.....super slow.

 

[yelbike]

So I'm restarting this tread because things have changed for me. I lent out my jd 2320 with my 60" tiller to an uncle of mine to use on his farm to till his compost pile inside his dairy farm. For those in the know, he just upgraded his operations to a double ten delaval palour. Anyways, he liked my tractor so much, he'll likely just buy it from me if I want. My only complaints on my 2320 are:
1. The short gear for the low range than the real tall gear for high range.
2. The R4 tires just don't work for me during the winter time, I would prefer turfs. Although I'm not 100% sure they will perform great tilling( I till more than I clear snow).
3. The increased hydraulic flow will be nice for loader work, but that is not really a issue for me.

My cost are going to be new mounts for the 200cx, drive shaft for my front quick hitch plus the cost from used 2320 to new 2520.
I guess my question is there enough difference between the 2320 and 2520 to justify a nearly $5000 upgrade. My tractor has 230 hrs and is in perfectly mint condition.

 

[XSKIER]

Sounds like a good deal to me. I'd do it before the tier IV 2000Rs come out, might cost more than $5000 to upgrade.

 

[newt92]

So I'm restarting this tread because things have changed for me. I lent out my jd 2320 with my 60" tiller to an uncle of mine to use on his farm to till his compost pile inside his dairy farm. For those in the know, he just upgraded his operations to a double ten delaval palour. Anyways, he liked my tractor so much, he'll likely just buy it from me if I want. My only complaints on my 2320 are:
1. The short gear for the low range than the real tall gear for high range.
2. The R4 tires just don't work for me during the winter time, I would prefer turfs. Although I'm not 100% sure they will perform great tilling( I till more than I clear snow).
3. The increased hydraulic flow will be nice for loader work, but that is not really a issue for me.

My cost are going to be new mounts for the 200cx, drive shaft for my front quick hitch plus the cost from used 2320 to new 2520.
I guess my question is there enough difference between the 2320 and 2520 to justify a nearly $5000 upgrade. My tractor has 230 hrs and is in perfectly mint condition.

1 The 2520 would probley be the same. Higher horsepower, but larger tires..
2. R3s are IMO better then R4s for snow, and either will be good for tilling. Tilling your not needing traction like disking/plowing.
3. Loader functions will be faster too..

Is it worth upgrading? Good question. If you can get what you want for the 2320 and have the money do it. Will you see $5K worth of "hey this is much better than what I had before"? probley not. I will say you will see the biggest difference when tilling. The larger engine and extra power will make a difference.

 

[yelbike]

1 The 2520 would probley be the same. Higher horsepower, but larger tires..
2. R3s are IMO better then R4s for snow, and either will be good for tilling. Tilling your not needing traction like disking/plowing.
3. Loader functions will be faster too..

Is it worth upgrading? Good question. If you can get what you want for the 2320 and have the money do it. Will you see $5K worth of "hey this is much better than what I had before"? probley not. I will say you will see the biggest difference when tilling. The larger engine and extra power will make a difference.

How will the R3 (turfs) do with my 48" (7 sweep) cultivator? Also have a three section wide of harrows. Will I spin out? Obviously the till is done dry.

 

[newt92]

How will the R3 (turfs) do with my 48" (7 sweep) cultivator? Also have a three section wide of harrows. Will I spin out? Obviously the till is done dry.

There are these nifty little standard devices on these tractors called 4wd and diff lock. I dont think you will have a problem..

 

[chin]

How will the R3 (turfs) do with my 48" (7 sweep) cultivator? Also have a three section wide of harrows. Will I spin out? Obviously the till is done dry.

Like you I prefer turfs. If tire spins in the dirt because an issue, you'll just have to pick up some tire chains for the rear tires

 

[Runner]

Since you like the 2xxx size range, and you know you need all the power you can get, I would go with a 2720 and skip the 2520. If the 2720 existed when I bought a tractor, I would have gone for it. I like my 2520, but when running my 72 rfm, it would be nice to have a few more ponies.

 

[yelbike]

Since you like the 2xxx size range, and you know you need all the power you can get, I would go with a 2720 and skip the 2520. If the 2720 existed when I bought a tractor, I would have gone for it. I like my 2520, but when running my 72 rfm, it would be nice to have a few more ponies.

That's weird, I run my 72" farm king rfm with no problems behind both the jd 2305 and 2320. Of course unless I try do some haying with it! The only time my 2320 struggles is tilling. It really only struggles because I'm tilling nearly 3 acres of tree lines so I try to keep the speed as high as possible. The 2720 is addition $2500 on top of the $5000, pretty hard to justify when truly the 2320 does all I ask of it.

 

[yelbike]

Like you I prefer turfs. If tire spins in the dirt because an issue, you'll just have to pick up some tire chains for the rear tires

I always till in 4wd, does anyone actually use tire chain for tilling. I think I may ask for a demo of the turfs for tilling.

 

[radioman]

I till with turfs on a slight slope up and down. No problems. I dont have reverse tilling, just forward so that probably helps. I just never noticed any issues getting stuck except when tilling a wet spot that was full of water. I didnt have my loader on so I couldnt crab my way out so I winched myself via hand winch. That was the only time I ever got stuck tilling and it was not dry. I suspect you will be just fine with turfs tilling. the dirt does NOT clog the turfs tires at all when dry.

 

[BuilderML]

Yelbike, Mind sharing what the 2720 is going for?

 

[Oldoak]

I think turfs along with a pair of chains on hand would be a good compromise. I have always had bar tires on my 318, which of course is only rear wheel drive and no differential lock. My next GT will be a X700 Series with four wheel drive with HDAP tires. But I will still purchase a pair of tire chains to have on hand especially for snow removal.

And no, you are not crazy to upgrade now, if you can afford to do so. Besides the differences in tractors, you will also be starting off with a brand new machine under full warranty.

 

[Runner]

That's weird, I run my 72" farm king rfm with no problems behind both the jd 2305 and 2320. Of course unless I try do some haying with it! The only time my 2320 struggles is tilling. It really only struggles because I'm tilling nearly 3 acres of tree lines so I try to keep the speed as high as possible. The 2720 is addition $2500 on top of the $5000, pretty hard to justify when truly the 2320 does all I ask of it.

It turns the mower fine, but my property is nothing but hills, so I sometimes have to back off the "go" pedal quite a bit to keep the rpm's in the sweet spot for the mower.

I guess if the 2320 does all you ask of it, then you're good to go.

 

[jenkinsph]

It turns the mower fine, but my property is nothing but hills, so I sometimes have to back off the "go" pedal quite a bit to keep the rpm's in the sweet spot for the mower.

I guess if the 2320 does all you ask of it, then you're good to go.

You mention the hills and that is a second reason I prefer the extra power in the 2720.

 

[yelbike]

Yelbike, Mind sharing what the 2720 is going for?

Bare tractor is 2320 $15000, 2520 $16500 and 2720 $19000. The only add ons i need is the driveshaft for quick hitch($270ish) and loader mounts($450ish). He quoted both items at a total of $422 and than a $750 discount. No cash discount, 0% financing for 60 months ($350ish fees from jd). Good, bad?

 

[BuilderML]

yelbike, Are you set on going green? My unit the sx3100 is a jd2720. the sx3100 has a few more bells i believe. Just to give you an idea of the premium your paying for green. sx3100 including loader, 60" MMM COST ME 16K. By the way the sx3100 has a 5 year warranty. As you can see you can get alot more tractor if it doesn't have to be green. Just an idea to put some money in your pocket unless its burning a hole in yours.

 

[yelbike]

yelbike, Are you set on going green? My unit the sx3100 is a jd2720. the sx3100 has a few more bells i believe. Just to give you an idea of the premium your paying for green. sx3100 including loader, 60" MMM COST ME 16K. By the way the sx3100 has a 5 year warranty. As you can see you can get alot more tractor if it doesn't have to be green. Just an idea to put some money in your pocket unless its burning a hole in yours.

I have a front mount broom, snowblower, mmm and loader that i'm transferring over from the 2320 to the 2520. So yeah i'm pretty much married to the green paint. I dont think thats a bad thing either.

 

[newt92]

yelbike, Are you set on going green? My unit the sx3100 is a jd2720. the sx3100 has a few more bells i believe. Just to give you an idea of the premium your paying for green. sx3100 including loader, 60" MMM COST ME 16K. By the way the sx3100 has a 5 year warranty. As you can see you can get alot more tractor if it doesn't have to be green. Just an idea to put some money in your pocket unless its burning a hole in yours.

Back a few years ago I priced out a sx3100 vs 2720. Tractor/loader and the 2720 was cheaper by about a $1k. IMO, the Deere loaders and mower decks are much better design than the Yanmar style. To each their own though.