Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #881  

My temp Internet connection is now having issues. Sigh, I need to ramp up my efforts for a permanent solution.


Peter:

I would say what you do for a living but I respect your privacy too much. All I am saying is that you, of all people, should be able to get a permanent solution in place sooner rather than later. Again, just like keeping to pester you about the ROPS on the tractor thread.

But seriously, you have done an awesome job both with helping your mom out and informing this thread. Keep up the great work, you must be busy as heck!
-Stu
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #882  
Peter,
Ok time for me to chime in yet again for a 3rd time. What i am about to say may screw you and your subs up alittle, not the end of the world but alittle. You have trusses on your house that you will notice with the season changes move alot. I would not install your drywall directly to the trusses. You will get cracks if you do, give it 2 years at most. The following 3 steps should be done.
Step 1: Install RC1 channel on the ceiling, if you do it 16" o.c. you will be able to use 1/2". Normally with trusses 24"o.c 5/8" is used.
You will have to look up online or talk to your contactor/drywall sub and/or builder about what it is and how to install it. Basicly it is a 1/2" steel channel that is screwed on one side to the truss, the other edge floats in air. Believe me it is very strong may not look it but does a **** of a job making the ceiling even and allowing the trusses to move with out cracking seams. The problem with me telling you this now is that if you do it it will drop your ceiling 1/2" causing you to have to drop electrical boxes, bath fans along with other items.

Step 2: In all angle areas of the ceiling you install a product called X-Crack. Again you will need to look online for product details or talk to your contractor.
I would say most drywall contractors us it. Always a problem with cracking on angles on ceilings if this product is not used.

Step 3: The reason i bring up step 3 is because of the way i see your interior partitions were done. They installed nailers ontop of the walls for drywall attachment. I would use clips that are made for drywall. They come in 1/2" and 5/8". The clips look like an F yes as in the letter F. They slide on the edge of the drywall where the drywall meets the wall. The bottom of the F comes down onto the top plates of the walls allowing you to screw the clip into the top plates and not the nailer in the ceiling. Once screwed into the top plate you must be atleast 16" min. away from the wall before screwing into the ceiling.
If you do alittle looking online i think you should be able to see what i am talking about.

Sorry it is not the easiest thing to describe in writing tried to do my best.
If this system is used i can almost tell you that you will have no cracks from truss movement. If they just attach drywall to the trusses i would almost bet that within 24 months you will have cracks.

If they don't want to use the rc1 channel atleast use the x-crack and the clips at edges for minimum.
Again sorry for chiming in late.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #883  
When are they going to dig for the power,, Looks like they are getting a bit blocked in and finish grade is coming ???
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #884  
Builder, does that rc1 stuff look like this?
 

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   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #885  
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #886  
Oh, so that's what you meant by floating, eh? Only one SIDE is not screwed to the truss. Do you think this system could be attached over present Sheetrock ceiling? I have that ridiculous "popcorn" mess, and I want to make my ceilings all smooth.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #887  
No that gap in the hardy is perfect should not be butted tight just thought he would have used the joints our mc donalds in town is the same way as yours,but we hardly ever get rain here. looks like an awsome spot
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #888  
Oh, so that's what you meant by floating, eh? Only one SIDE is not screwed to the truss. Do you think this system could be attached over present Sheetrock ceiling? I have that ridiculous "popcorn" mess, and I want to make my ceilings all smooth.

Only one side is screwed as it only has one leg to screw in.
If you are looking to cover up your popcorn you can just apply another layer of 1/2" drywall right over your existing ceiling. You do not need to install the channel. You can also dampen your popcorn with a light mist of water from a bug sprayer, Let the water soak in alittle and follow with a scraper. Scraper can be from 6" to 12" wide. It makes one **** of a mess doing this so the whole room needs to be covered with plastic. It will take you alittle time to figure out the amount of water you need to apply along with the amount of time to let the water soak in before trying to scrape. Once you figure that out it should go pretty well.
So to answer your question NO you do not need to install channel if you are looking to cover your existing ceiling.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #889  
Thanks a lot, Builder! Way back, I used to be a framer and Sheetrock hanger, not finisher but I can do finishing work for myself, so I got to figure out which way to go. I think I'll just moist and scrape, then refinish and/or prime and repaint.

pc, sorry to get sidetracked here! I KNOW you're not using that terrible popcorn mess! What will your rock ceiling be finished with? Me, I like smooth...
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #890  
I would imagine since he is investing an additional $5,200 to have the vaulted part of the ceiling in the main room and dining room covered with stained and varnished T&G knotty pine that there will be a trim molding under it at the end walls and side walls so the joints of any plasterboard under it and the end corners won't be finished much past the taping phase as they will never be seen.
They may use No-Coat on the other joints in a quality job.
 

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