Anyone in the market for a midsize car? I was.

[CHDinCT]

Try a different brand of 5w20. Maybe Mobile 1 or Quaker State.

Some of the '08-12 K24 Accords use some oil when you run long oil change intervals, but the J35 V6 cars rarely use oil at all.

Well, I usually go to the dealer for oil changes since they only charge like $29.95 and it gives me a chance to peruse the new models. Plus, as I found out, you need to remove the passenger tire front wheel to get at the oil filter - PITA. What I am finding interesting is that after discussing the issue with the dealer, they keep overfilling the oil after each change. They originally told me to bring it back about every 1,000 miles to have them check and document the oil consumption, but how can I do that when they don't start from the proper fill level. To be honest, the issue hasn't alarmed me enough (yet) to get pissy with them about overfilling the sump.

 

[JBourquin]

Well, I usually go to the dealer for oil changes since they only charge like $29.95 and it gives me a chance to peruse the new models.

This is one reason I let the dealer do oil changes on the wife's journey. That and I'm on my 2nd buy 1 get 3 free coupons. That's 4 LOFs for $30. I couldn't do them for that if I tried. When I run out of coupons I'll start doing them myself, as I do on my truck.

 

[Peacock]

Well, I usually go to the dealer for oil changes since they only charge like $29.95 and it gives me a chance to peruse the new models. Plus, as I found out, you need to remove the passenger tire front wheel to get at the oil filter - PITA. What I am finding interesting is that after discussing the issue with the dealer, they keep overfilling the oil after each change. They originally told me to bring it back about every 1,000 miles to have them check and document the oil consumption, but how can I do that when they don't start from the proper fill level. To be honest, the issue hasn't alarmed me enough (yet) to get pissy with them about overfilling the sump.

No reason to remove wheel at all. The filter is directly above the right cradle frame rail. Easily accessed from below, either from lift or creeper.

 

[clemsonfor]

I had a 1995 Accord that I consider the best car I ever bought. I sold it to some friends after my Mom died, and now I tool around in her 2001 Accord. I would like Mom's car more if it were a 2-door, a different color, and had a manual transmission. That's not the car's fault; but my personal preferences.

Every year a friend of mine and I go to the Denver auto show to kick the tires, and each year we are very impressed with the Hyundai Azera. A lot of bang for the buck. I just wish they offered a 2-door version.

After my experience with my 1983 Chevy S-10, I will never buy a GM product again.

My buddy is a Hyuandai tech, has all the training etc and at the dealer he worked at before he quit he was the only warrenty work guy due to his credds. anyway he said he would not buy a Hyundai!!! He said he has never seen one at or over 200k, i guess they just fall apart over 100k if i took what he was saying right? It makes you wonder if a guy who messes with them all day wont buy one??

 

[clemsonfor]

I'm not impressed with my '07 Accord. It has just over 100,000 miles. I hear you on the "no soul" deal. I hate to take it on any long trips as the road noise and ride are terrible. My wife says it rides like "being on a roller skate". The inside shows quite a bit more wear than what I would like, even for a 100K mile car. It started to show age pretty early in it's life.

The thing eats tires, even after keeping up with the pressure and rotating frequently. I had an issue with the breaks before 30K miles and my dealer wanted me to pay to have them fixed until I threw a fit. Never had any major mechanical problems, but my wife was advised on getting the timing belt changed, by our dealer, at about 70K miles (she was in for a recall of some sort). Job was going to cost $1200. I said not until 100K, and then I checked an independent shop, only to be told that it has a timing CHAIN, not belt, and I was good to go. I will never do business with this dealer again BTW.

I have noticed from several other Accord owners that I am not the only one who says the road noise is terrible, and this goes across several generations of car. Next time I think I will look around, see what else is out there. The Hyundai is supposed to be getting very good and has better options for a cheaper price.

Sis in law bought an 04 accord in like 05 used. It was repainted on the horizontal surfaces about 2 years ago as the clear was flaking off and made it look bad. They just traded on a lezus SUV as the honda had "a ton of problmes" including a "boiling sounds" from under the dash when they drove it. they could not pin it down to any time wasent AC gurgle supposedly, happened with heat on AC on car hot or cold??

 

[jwstewar]

We bought a 2000 Honda Accord in February of 2008 for a commuter car for me after I smacked a deer with our 1997 Accord with 252k miles on it. The '97 didn't use any oil except for the time I left the drain plug a bit loose - ooops. Any way, we bought the 2000 with 71k on the clock it has the 4 cylinder VTEC engine. When we got it the oil was clean and the car was in pretty good condition except for some door dings. It looked like whomever had it took pretty good care of it. Any way, since we've had it, it has used oil. I have to put a quart of oil in it every 1500-2000 miles. Since it only requires 4.5 quarts, I put 5 in it when I change it. Then at about 2500-3000 miles I will dump another quart or 2 in it. And that will run it until I change it when the light comes on. It is the only thing I own that I have to check the oil on. My NH tractor doesn't use/lose any. Neither does my '99 Silverado with the 5.3. Nor does our 2008 Suburban with the 5.3 with cylinder deactivation. You know, the engine that is claimed to drink more oil than gas. Funny, it is down to 10% oil life left and it is right where I left it as I have checked it since "all of the GM's with the cylinder deactivation drink oil." Oh, BTW, I now have almost 203k on the Accord, other than the oil usage the engine has been great, just did plugs, distributor cap, and rotor button at about 195k and brakes all the way around. It is starting to do the typical Honda slip of the tranny when it does to shift gears. Hoping that a fluid change will take care of that.

 

[aczlan]

t is starting to do the typical Honda slip of the tranny when it does to shift gears. Hoping that a fluid change will take care of that.

Just make sure the fluid is only flushed, not "cleaned" and flushed. Have had various people I know have a tranny fail after whatever cleaning chemicals they use were done with the transmission.

Aaron Z

 

[Peacock]

We bought a 2000 Honda Accord in February of 2008 for a commuter car for me after I smacked a deer with our 1997 Accord with 252k miles on it. The '97 didn't use any oil except for the time I left the drain plug a bit loose - ooops. Any way, we bought the 2000 with 71k on the clock it has the 4 cylinder VTEC engine. When we got it the oil was clean and the car was in pretty good condition except for some door dings. It looked like whomever had it took pretty good care of it. Any way, since we've had it, it has used oil. I have to put a quart of oil in it every 1500-2000 miles. Since it only requires 4.5 quarts, I put 5 in it when I change it. Then at about 2500-3000 miles I will dump another quart or 2 in it. And that will run it until I change it when the light comes on. It is the only thing I own that I have to check the oil on. My NH tractor doesn't use/lose any. Neither does my '99 Silverado with the 5.3. Nor does our 2008 Suburban with the 5.3 with cylinder deactivation. You know, the engine that is claimed to drink more oil than gas. Funny, it is down to 10% oil life left and it is right where I left it as I have checked it since "all of the GM's with the cylinder deactivation drink oil." Oh, BTW, I now have almost 203k on the Accord, other than the oil usage the engine has been great, just did plugs, distributor cap, and rotor button at about 195k and brakes all the way around. It is starting to do the typical Honda slip of the tranny when it does to shift gears. Hoping that a fluid change will take care of that.

Fluid change won't fix the transmission. As second clutch wears it clogs the oil passages with debris and the transmission loses line pressure.

They are pretty easy to overhaul though, if you are mechanically inclined.

 

[crazyal]

Back in the mid 70s I bought a Toyota Corolla. I went to remove the mud flaps, like I did with every American car I owned before it, so I could repair the paint where the screw was driven through the steel to hold the flap on. What I found was that Toyota uses a plastic clip so the paint wouldn't get damaged. I started looking at the car closer and realized that it was built better. The gaps in the panels was very even. The engine wasn't push rod V8 technology crammed into a 4 cylinder engine. The American cars I had owned before that seamed to focus on creature comforts while the Toyota had focused on everything else.

I sold the car with over 275k miles on it, still ran great. The clutch needed replacing and the water pump were the only major repairs. The only other thing I had to do was replace the gaskets on the valve cover. The valve cover had 4 round holes in the center for the spark plugs. After about 130k they would start to leak oil onto the spark plugs. Not a big deal, it just meant that the oil that leaked would go into the cylinders when you changed the plugs. It was a cheap fix and only took a few minutes. In the early morning our in the dead of February when it was -35 out the car would fire right up. Never had a doubt in my mind. It seams like the US companies have come around and are making much better vehicles. But when a new car costs $30k most people want to invest their hard work into something they feel will last.

 

[3930dave]

Well, I usually go to the dealer for oil changes since they only charge like $29.95 and it gives me a chance to peruse the new models. Plus, as I found out, you need to remove the passenger tire front wheel to get at the oil filter - PITA. What I am finding interesting is that after discussing the issue with the dealer, they keep overfilling the oil after each change. They originally told me to bring it back about every 1,000 miles to have them check and document the oil consumption, but how can I do that when they don't start from the proper fill level. To be honest, the issue hasn't alarmed me enough (yet) to get pissy with them about overfilling the sump.

Ask around, if you don't know the reputation of the dealer already. Sometimes (under factory pressure, unofficially) a dealer will deliberately overfill, to avoid documenting oil consumption on a known defect - it is a pretty old story.

Rgds, D.