mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

[SPDRMNKY]

so, while I'm waiting on funds to fix a few other things, this just cost me time and a few pieces of firewood

the bucket was bent by the previous owner trying to pop a stump :dance1:

it took a few hours, and a couple heating attempts, but she's a lot closer to straight than before (within 1/8", and used to be about 3/8" out)

the bucket really isn't that strong, and would benefit from a bolt-on, or weld-on cutting edge...maybe in time

when attempting this, I recommend a stiff breeze coming from the rear quarter of the tractor...keeps those flames away from flammables

and a big sledge used "gently" starting from the middle and working out both ways

yes, the little red bottle of white dust was on standby...cheers!

 

[caferacermike]

Man that's looking good.

How about moving that ground wire from the radiator tin over to the alternator mount? Might get a better ground and it won't ever fall onto the alternator pulley or cooling fan.

 

[Kernopelli]

NICE looking rig! The bucket cylinders you mentioned earlier look pretty burly, at least a 1/2" larger bore than the lift cylinders. They might be part of the bent bucket issue....those may be burly, big bore,bucket bending cylinders :thumbsup:! The previous owner probably knew/noticed they had some additional umph and was betting on the bucket being stronger than the stump. ( Back to the short tilt at full lift height)-The cylinders look like they should be about the right overall length. I bet the bucket end clevis design (it's long) makes the attachment point right but at full lift height the cylinder's short stroke is revealed. If the time comes, it looks like you need cylinders about that long but with a little more stroke.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

Man that's looking good.

How about moving that ground wire from the radiator tin over to the alternator mount? Might get a better ground and it won't ever fall onto the alternator pulley or cooling fan.

thanks. unfortunately, that ground wire has to stay until I get the time to figure out what's preventing good ground between the front sub-frame (battery) and the block (starter).

NICE looking rig! The bucket cylinders you mentioned earlier look pretty burly, at least a 1/2" larger bore than the lift cylinders. They might be part of the bent bucket issue....those may be burly, big bore,bucket bending cylinders :thumbsup:! The previous owner probably knew/noticed they had some additional umph and was betting on the bucket being stronger than the stump. ( Back to the short tilt at full lift height)-The cylinders look like they should be about the right overall length. I bet the bucket end clevis design (it's long) makes the attachment point right but at full lift height the cylinder's short stroke is revealed. If the time comes, it looks like you need cylinders about that long but with a little more stroke.

me thinks yer' on-ta sum'thin' there...8" of stroke is about 4" too short by my guesstimate. I'm probably going to order the replacement cyl's (even though they're $175 ea), so I have a point of reference/departure for the future. now if'n I could only find that money tree...?

 

[Kernopelli]

now if'n I could only find that money tree...?

Hehehe...I hear you!! By far the best luck I have had purchasing hydraulics has been on Ebay. Sometimes takes long, patient watching to get a deal but they are there. My last hydraulic purchase was a NIB 6 spool backhoe valve ($1000+ retail) for about $40 incl. sh. I have had excellent luck watching this ebay store Industrial, Home Garden items in cylinders store on eBay!. They don't always have cylinders and don't always have matched cylinders for sale ( patient watching!) but I have got some smoking deals on cylinders, pumps and valves from them. They also have great deals on lathe and mill tooling ( recently bought $150 pack of indexable lathe bits for $6.xx incl sh), drill bits, electrical items and many other items!

 

[SPDRMNKY]

here's one for ya'll...

when I replaced the water pump, I put the tractor back together without the thermostat...and it started spitting antifreeze out the overflow

thought it might be too full and just finding its level...nope

thought it might be the rad cap, so I replaced it (16 psi)...nope

found a 180F/82C thermostat and reinstalled it...well, that's better, except
- if I bring the tractor off idle before the thermostat has opened it'll squirt out about 2 cups of antifreeze
- if I wait until the thermostat has opened, it'll run fine all day
- and once, I had it in the garage...it had been shut off for about 30 mins (cool spring day), and I went to start it again and it immediately dumped almost a gallon of antifreeze out the overflow

I'm pretty well at wit's end...maybe the new waterpump is too high volume (flow)?

thoughts?

 

[skylarkguy]

I can't imagine the pump is too high a volume. But maybe.
You should check too see if the exhaust from compression is making its way into the cooling system and overpressurizing it.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

I had the valve cover off to check head bolt torque...all tight

When the thermostat was installed, you could open the rad cap on startup, and watch the coolant just sit there...no bubbles

Also, no white smoke out of the exhaust...ever...and nothing in the oil

I haven't had the head off, and I haven't done a pressure test of the cooling system, but...

if I let the tractor warm up until the thermostat opens, then there are no issues...none...but it seems weird to have to do that? which is what makes me think something isn't quite right in the cooling system...?

 

[Utah Bison]

When you reinstalled the theromstat did you also reconnect the bypass hose system?
Possable without a bypass the pump cavates and can't pump or gets a air lock.
I believe you also want to run the coolant level a couple of inches below
the radiator neck. To allow for expansion.
Just a couple thoughts.
Lee

 

[SPDRMNKY]

I did reconnect the bypass hose system, and I'm okay with "low" coolant levels, but not down below the fins.

Talked a bit about it with the NCW tractor guy yesterday, and he's sending an overflow tank on Monday...also have a hyd pump coming, but that's another story.

I think there's space down near the battery to mount the tank. I think this is the right solution...I had considered it briefly, but said to myself, "nah, these old setups didn't have an overflow tank, so there must be something else wrong."

thanks for the inputs fellas! and I mean that...I find collective knowledge more useful than operating in a void.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

well, here's the overflow tank installed...I'll work on a better system, but for now zip-ties will do



had to round the hard edge of the hood over a bit for clearance, but it's a pretty clean fit

here's the next hassle...replacing the hydraulic pump



I was excited for this one...going from 5gpm to 9gpm for only $350...better than the $600 OEM pump

but, the new shaft has a shoulder down near the seal that hits on the drive gear and doesn't let the pump seat



so...unless there's an adapter plate and longer studs, or some other solution, I'm gonna have to go OEM

I'm going to pull the front cover, where the power steering pump would sit, and see if I have any options

any experience with this? cheers!

 

[Utah Bison]

Could you mill down the drive gear .050 or bore its end open a bit for clearance?
Just some ideas.
Lee

 

[SPDRMNKY]

well...it's been a while, but here's catchin' up

I decided to go the spacer route...1/8" aluminum and an extra gasket



not too bad...as long as the stud holes lined up there was some room for error...all by hand, BTW (glad it was aluminum)



I recommend this gasket for lots of things...I've used it for chainsaw cylinder base gaskets and carb gaskets, and now a tractor hyd pump gasket



oooo...shiny



a clean install, all things considered...definitely not OEM fitment, but it's working. had to use flange nuts on the studs, but locktite will keep them in place, and had to stack washers on the hyd connection bolts...tacky but effective...if you're careful.



and then I took this picture thinking "hey, hey, hey...you've accomplished something boy"...



yeah...



yes, that's the block face...(sigh). coolant going out the overflow was getting worse, so the only thing left was the head gasket. somebody let their pet monkey replace the head gasket on this tractor before. they even used black RTV when installing the new one...ARE YOU FRIGGIN' SERIOUS? yes...black RTV.

here I'm groaning about some monkey before me, and what did I then do...you guessed it...installed the head gasket upside down and backwards...FMR. figured it out when coolant poured out the front of the block. anyway...

got my headbolt torque specs and torque order included in the box with the gaskets from NCW. 108 lb-ft for mine since they were all "big" bolts.

He also had a pair of rebuilt tilt cylinders sitting around, so I replaced the oversized ag ones on the FEL...though I didn't take a pic.

this is what can happen when you install the head gasket incorrectly, and then have to reinstall it...they only like to be compressed once. the bubbles stopped after about 10 mins.



while I was at it, I had a buddy gusset the loader support arm to clear the exhaust pipe...did a good job.



so now the tractor runs...mostly. I've spent several hours mowing, with only a couple stops to blow out the radiator. I also helped the neighbor put up hay...so far no "problems". the only remaining symptom I don't like (other than leaking oil in a couple spots) is the radiator doesn't like to keep coolant above the fins. my overflow tanks is darn near full, but the tractor is running plenty cool. I don't friggin' know. maybe a new radiator is needed when I replace the clutch this winter? maybe the water pump bolts on, but just flows too much coolant for this setup?

I'm just glad to finally get some use out of her after all these months.

cheers!

 

[Kernopelli]

Good job!! I am curious about the new 9GPM pump. I would love some more flow and had even considered a second pump ran off the crank, PTO pump etc. Where did you get the new one, what is it originally for/off of and did the OEM pressure and return fittings bolt right to it? ( actually, I can see in the pic that the stock Mitsubishi return line fitting bolted up OK)

Edit: BTW, I paid about $350 for my used stock pump when I cracked the AL casing on the original. If you have no further use for the old one, clean it up and throw it on Ebay and you can probably recoup the money for the new one.

 

[Utah Bison]

Isn't it great to finally get to work your tractor.
After all the time your tractor has worked you.
Nice Job...
Lee

 

[SPDRMNKY]

Good job!! I am curious about the new 9GPM pump. I would love some more flow and had even considered a second pump ran off the crank, PTO pump etc. Where did you get the new one, what is it originally for/off of and did the OEM pressure and return fittings bolt right to it? ( actually, I can see in the pic that the stock Mitsubishi return line fitting bolted up OK)

Edit: BTW, I paid about $350 for my used stock pump when I cracked the AL casing on the original. If you have no further use for the old one, clean it up and throw it on Ebay and you can probably recoup the money for the new one.

I'm happy with the new pump so far...much quieter than the old pump...but I didn't know my old pump was loud until I changed it. The headache is fitment, as I detailed. I got this pump from NCW, and the box it came in obviously came from Turkey...the instructions were badly translated to English (in the Turkish style) also. The pressure and return lines bolt up fine...except...the OEM bolts are too long. I stacked washers to take up the slack (which is a bit redneck), but a guy could probably find shorter bolts.

I hadn't thought about ebay...though I wouldn't want to have sold that pump to anyone. I pulled it apart to see what might be wrong (maybe I could rebuild it?), and the housing (inside) was scratched and scored all to heck. The pieces are now in my random parts bins.

I was hoping for a rebuild so I could add power steering, or rear hyd connections...maybe later.

Isn't it great to finally get to work your tractor.After all the time your tractor has worked you.
Nice Job...
Lee

yes.

 

[Kernopelli]

I have been really pleased with NCW. The owner seems to be very familiar with Mitsubishi's specifically, is very nice/helpful and in general, have very competitive pricing.

Edit: I guess I had missed the fact the old pump was shot......I just assumed you replaced it simply to get more flow. Great find on the pump! I wish I had known there was a high flow replacement when I replaced mine with another stock pump 5 yrs ago.

 

[284 International]

I know it's been awhile since this thread was active, but I wanted to compliment SPDRMNKY on a wonderful job taking photographs and explaining in clear detail what he did. It's a great example of how a thread should be.

I have been really pleased with NCW. The owner seems to be very familiar with Mitsubishi's specifically, is very nice/helpful and in general, have very competitive pricing.

Earlier in the thread I commented that I had a very bad experience with NCW, but your experience, as with SPDRMNKY's, sounds nothing at all like mine. Maybe I caught them during a bad couple weeks, or was not dealing with the owner, but repeated good experiences should certainly outweigh a single person's bad one. I haven't ordered from them again, but if/when my Mitsubishis need anything, I'll definitely give them a shot.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

thanks 284I...appreciate it. I've had bad experiences with parts houses before, and then gone back a year later because I was out of options and we became fast friends...people are weird (myself included).

an update worth noting: I think I've solved the cooling system hiccups I was having...ie: too much coolant in the overflow tank and below the fins in the radiator. there's lots of sediment flowing around in this old tractor, so a while back I cut the tube that goes down into the tank a little shorter...the intention was to get it out of the sediment in the bottom of the overflow tank. at first nothing changed...then she sat for several weeks while I was busy out of town. when I got back to her, the overflow tank was almost empty. I checked under the cap, and had to add about half a cup. now...works perfectly! I'm no expert on overflow tanks (obviously), but if you retrofit one to your tractor, maybe try cutting the tube that goes down inside a little short. :confused3:

the tractor's been working good lately getting the last of my firewood hauled home for the season. I need to replace three seals on the front axle (input and two at the hubs), though tightening all the bolts definitely helped.

cheers!

 

[mhunter57]

Hello,

I am new owner of D2650FD. I am having trouble with the front end loader having enough power to lift. When I start it up it works fine for about 10 minutes then it becomes very weak to the point where it wont even lift the bucket. i feel like it is a filter problem I have noticed a slow leak under the seat near where the filter is. The same happens with the shredder attachment. It doesn't want to lift and i notice that the steering becomes sluggish at the same time. I am very new to tractors. Any suggestions?