dongfeng tractor with y385t wont start help

[rsallen]

And please reread mine.
If my NH shuts down with the key, then it has electric solenoid someplace in the system. Probably much like cars, it's on the fuel pump that activates a rod internally.
If I have to, I'll go out and find exactly where it is and let you know where it's located because the tractor shuts down the fuel with the key.

I asked the op because I didn't how his how tractor was set up is all.
As everyone is giving their creds in this post, I've worked in the automotive field for 45 + years and owned my own shop for 30 + years.
I tried to help the op with his diesel problem, but as everyone knows more about engines and fuel than I do I'll bow out of this thread now.

It's too bad though the op didn't do a leak down test before tearing it apart so he'd know just how far he's going to have to tear the engine down before he puts a head back on to find out he's also got wasted rings.

Order of diagnosis goes, fuel check, compression test (comes out badly), check valve train - all is well, leak down test........tear apart as necessary.

Save that for future reference everyone.
Wheather you're a so called called mechanic or not.

 

[cleat]

My dongfeng shuts off with the key as well. It is a electric motor that pulls or pushes via a cable on the stop arm on the IP. I had this electric connection to the motor come loose right after I got the tractor (likely was never plugged in properly during assembly) and the tractor would not shut down automatically. Same thing could cause a no start.

However, the OP has bigger issues.

 

[reelnative]

SO TRUE CLEAT HAHAHAH the PO (me) is headin to the machine shop right now to drop off the head wish me luck, ill get it back on monday i think

 

[reelnative]

And please reread mine.
If my NH shuts down with the key, then it has electric solenoid someplace in the system. Probably much like cars, it's on the fuel pump that activates a rod internally.
If I have to, I'll go out and find exactly where it is and let you know where it's located because the tractor shuts down the fuel with the key.

I asked the op because I didn't how his how tractor was set up is all.
As everyone is giving their creds in this post, I've worked in the automotive field for 45 + years and owned my own shop for 30 + years.
I tried to help the op with his diesel problem, but as everyone knows more about engines and fuel than I do I'll bow out of this thread now.

It's too bad though the op didn't do a leak down test before tearing it apart so he'd know just how far he's going to have to tear the engine down before he puts a head back on to find out he's also got wasted rings.

Order of diagnosis goes, fuel check, compression test (comes out badly), check valve train - all is well, leak down test........tear apart as necessary.

Save that for future reference everyone.
Wheather you're a so called called mechanic or not.

well i guess were all smart people in here hahahahha, but I will never claim to be, im going to let the machine shop test the valves and ck for warping of the head, wen i looked down the cyls well the 2 i could look down they looked very good, kinda like a eng with only 69hrs on it no vert lines gouges pits or ring scuff marks, the head looked in like new condition also with no boiling pits or detonation marks to it at all, what do you all think about me reusing the org head bolts and what is the torq value on these, how many ft pounds do they need to be placed at, and is there a retorq at like 5 or 10hrs or after the first warm up, Thanks

 

[Bob Rooks]

As everyone is giving their creds in this post, I've worked in the automotive field for 45 + years and owned my own shop for 30 + years.
A business licence is not diesel engine credentials at all.

I tried to help the op with his diesel problem, but as everyone knows more about engines and fuel than I do I'll bow out of this thread now.
A very gracious gesture.

It's too bad though the op didn't do a leak down test before tearing it apart so he'd know just how far he's going to have to tear the engine down before he puts a head back on to find out he's also got wasted rings.
Correct. Properly done, a leak down test can pinpoint bad rings, bad intake valves, bad exhaust valves, and a blown head gasket - individually or all at once.

Save that for future reference everyone. Wheather (Whether) you're a so called called mechanic or not.
I'm actually not a full time mechanic anymore, only as the need arises. I'm a licensed Chief Engineer (unlimited horsepower) and I have been operating a 16,000 HP diesel-electric propulsion plant for the past fifteen years. I have driven class 8 trucks for a living, and have owned my own boatyard and service station. I was a field mechanic for the local Cat dealer, I was a test driver for PACCAR. I have studied each of my emplyment requirements thoroughly.
But I guess I just don't know squat.

I digress.

12345

 

[Bob Rooks]

what do you all think about me reusing the org head bolts and what is the torq value on these, how many ft pounds do they need to be placed at, and is there a retorq at like 5 or 10hrs or after the first warm up, Thanks

I wouldn't hesitate to re-use them, just make sure all of the threads are clean.
I always torque cylinder heads in two stages (following the pattern); First stage, take up 75% of the final torque value. Second stage, take up full torque value. This gives a more even crush to the gasket and less chance of deforming the head. I would re-torque at 50 hours. I don't know what the torque values are, sorry.

 

[greg_g]

Head bolts; 150-170 NM
Rocker arm bolts: 90 NM
Valve clearance (cold); intake 0.20-0.25 mm, exhaust 0.25-0.30 mm

Retorque recommended on new Y80/Y85 engines @50 hours, but I'd think more like 10 hours for a used engine - especially if original headbolts are considered reusable. Been a while since this has been discussed in detail, but I read of complaints where the Chinese headbolts were deemed too soft to be re-used. Something about them being too stretched to return (and hold) accurate torque values. During that discussion, the consensus seemed to favor using new bolts. At a minimum I'd use a micrometer to gauge your used headbolts against a new one.

//greg//

 

[rsallen]

Okay Rooks,
Enough of this, I'm not interested in starting a flame war.
But I'll oblige if you wish, I can become just disparaging and caustic as anyone, and better than most.
So let's stop this tit for tad BS.

I dare say, I've diagnosis, torn down, repaired and rebuilt as many engines, transmissions, differentials as anyone here. And diesel engines have been a fair share of it all. And we both know the only thing that makes any difference at all outside of weight is only the nuts and bolts of how it's controled. It doesn't even matter what kind of engine is being talked about. The principles are the same from big to small.

Seems to me this bit of snit started because you took some umbrage about me suggesting that a compression test as opposed to a leak down as the best place to start.
In deference to the op, I in my round about way tried to explain why that was the proper course. Also that it was fine with me if you thought a leak down was the first course of action.
I say in deference to, because note, you're addressing an op'er that doesn't know anything about opening pressures, mist patterns, or even a round about time when injection starts. Now admitedly I don't know about the equipment you work on, but in my world there are no 180 degree marks on the flywheels or the balancers.
I noted you didn't tell the op how to find that magical TDC for each cyl. While I told him how it can be easily accomplished because of the primitive valve arrangement,

From there you went off on some kind syntax mistake I made or something, I don't know. But what ever I said, at least a couple of people understood what I was trying to convey. And they understood it clearly.
You, on the other hand are still trying to get your mind around this mystery of a diesel shutting down with a key. (sorry about that, as I said I can go there if you really want to)

Seems to me your hubris should be directed more toward the op rather than me, after all he didn't follow your advice any more then he did mine.

If I say something patently wrong I expect to be called on it. Until then let's not butt heads heh.
I didn't nor haven't discounted what you've said or advocated. I expect the the same respect in return.
I have no interst in a flame war.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I have no interst in a flame war.

And neither do I. Weren't you leaving this thread?

 

[rsallen]

Do you really want to pretend what I had to say had anything other then tangently related to the thread?

Instead just saying ok or ignoring that post you choose to continue with the abrasive crap.

I don't have to justify to you where or when or what I post, period.

Instead of centering on me why don't you explain to the op'er why there's a worry about the rings and perhaps even the block?
I would but as I said I'm out of this thread.