Matching a trailer to my load/truck, current setup isn't cutting it????

[bandaidmd]

a long trailer will always haul a long or short load, a short trailer....only works for a short load.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I'm hoping that in the next few years I'll be buying a new truck, it will either be a 3/4 ton or another 1ton diesel. It seems like a lot of the new trucks come with class V hitches, whereas mine is only a Class IV I believe (it's rated at 10k lbs)

I don't know exactly what truck and hitch you have (year, make, model, configuration, etc...) but I would bet if you look in the fine print, you will find that the 10k rating of your current hitch assumes that you are using a WD system, and there is a lower number that comes into play if you are not using a WD system. I'm not sure how manufacturers can get away with not putting this critical information front and center, but I've seen this happen more than once. The owner's manual says that the vehicle comes with a 10k tow rating, and then somewhere else in small print, it mentions that, oh, by the way, if you're not using a WD system, it's only 5k.

 

[Xfaxman]

Some more possibilities:

Rumbar Deck:
I have seen a lot of horse and cattle trailers with Rumbar floors.

D&K Trailers - Tiltbed Trailers

 

[Piston]

I don't know exactly what truck and hitch you have (year, make, model, configuration, etc...) but I would bet if you look in the fine print, you will find that the 10k rating of your current hitch assumes that you are using a WD system, and there is a lower number that comes into play if you are not using a WD system. I'm not sure how manufacturers can get away with not putting this critical information front and center, but I've seen this happen more than once. The owner's manual says that the vehicle comes with a 10k tow rating, and then somewhere else in small print, it mentions that, oh, by the way, if you're not using a WD system, it's only 5k.

I do believe you are correct on that, as far as needing a WD hitch, but I can't say for sure.

Is the WD hitch more for a better ride, and safer towing, or is it more so the weight of the trailer doesn't physically damage the hitch itself? As mentioned earlier, I've never been driving the truck and towing and felt any sort of ill effects such as too much tongue weight, too little, or anything like that. The rear end has never sagged any more than level. I have even stiffer springs in the rear than it came with stock, and had an airbag setup but removed it because I never once needed it. I've loaded the back up with just over 3k lbs of concrete and it didn't even sag....


If the WD hitch is for the hitch integrity, then i may be slightly worried about it, but if it's for a better ride, I can't say I've ever felt that I don't have a good ride already. Although, I have certainly noticed differences, and heavy loads of course, but I have never felt unsafe towing, like I have in lesser trucks/setups.

If I go with a larger bumper pull, I do plan on upgrading my hitch and going with a WD hitch, but only because I've read that I "should" on this website, I don't actually understand how they work and why I "need" one?

 

[Piston]

I do like the tilt trailers, but like GN's, it seems like it adds more weight to the trailer, taking away weight that I could use as cargo.

 

[Xfaxman]

I do like the tilt trailers, but like GN's, it seems like it adds more weight to the trailer, taking away weight that I could use as cargo.

I haven't done any research, but for the non powered gravity tilt, I can't see much weight difference. Add two hinge pins, some steel for the hinges and extra framework, a dampening cylinder, then subtract the weight of the ramps no longer needed. Couldn't be much difference. :2cents:



Some don't have a dampening cylinder.

 

[Xfaxman]

I do believe you are correct on that, as far as needing a WD hitch, but I can't say for sure.
..........................
If I go with a larger bumper pull, I do plan on upgrading my hitch and going with a WD hitch, but only because I've read that I "should" on this website, I don't actually understand how they work and why I "need" one?

HowStuffWorks "How Towing Weight Distribution Systems Work"

 

[jejeosborne]

I do believe you are correct on that, as far as needing a WD hitch, but I can't say for sure.

Is the WD hitch more for a better ride, and safer towing, or is it more so the weight of the trailer doesn't physically damage the hitch itself? As mentioned earlier, I've never been driving the truck and towing and felt any sort of ill effects such as too much tongue weight, too little, or anything like that. The rear end has never sagged any more than level. I have even stiffer springs in the rear than it came with stock, and had an airbag setup but removed it because I never once needed it. I've loaded the back up with just over 3k lbs of concrete and it didn't even sag....

If the WD hitch is for the hitch integrity, then i may be slightly worried about it, but if it's for a better ride, I can't say I've ever felt that I don't have a good ride already. Although, I have certainly noticed differences, and heavy loads of course, but I have never felt unsafe towing, like I have in lesser trucks/setups.

If I go with a larger bumper pull, I do plan on upgrading my hitch and going with a WD hitch, but only because I've read that I "should" on this website, I don't actually understand how they work and why I "need" one?

You need to look at the capacity of your hitch. For example, my f150 with max tow package is rated for 500/5000 without WD and 1150/11500 lbs with a WD. This is the case even with some 3/4 and 1 ton trucks of recent history.

Yes it is safer and improves ride quality. Second, it could be because of structural issues but have no proof. The torque from the WD bars apply load to the front mounting bolts on the hitch spreading the tongue weight across the entire hitch. Without a WD hitch, the entire tongue load is supported only by the rear most bolts on the hitch through the truck frame. All that stress is also just applied to the frame at those two locations.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I thought the trailer weight is state by state. I'd go dual tandem over a triple axle anyday. If all your doing is straight than it'll work but start getting into tight areas and its just dragging that rear axle all over the place. Also it is more to replace tires on but Ill take 8 over 6 for heavy loads.

Brett

I had dual tandems. They were 12K axles and I hated them. Brakes, brarings, and a flat along the side of the road is no fun on a inner. I have hadbmy 18K tri axle for 9 years and will never go back.

Chris

 

[Piston]

View attachment 327551
HowStuffWorks "How Towing Weight Distribution Systems Work"

Thanks for the link :thumbsup:

I read through the pages and at least now I understand how they transfer weight to the front of the truck, it seems like it's all about the leverage created by the "bars", forcing a lever arm where the receiver hitch plugs in, to apply a force which transfers the weight forward. I guess that makes sense.

Based on my towing experience, I have to say that I've never felt like I really need one, even now knowing a little more about them. I suppose I should have one however, and would probably notice a big difference. It's probably one of those things that you never knew you needed until you used it, sort of like a grapple. (just not to THAT extent)