dongfeng tractor with y385t wont start help

[Bob Rooks]

hey bob i just ckd and if iso 46 is the same as n46 thats what i have and the iso 46 is has the same weight as SAE 20 or its Equivalent

I keep forgetting that it's not a Jinma. Sorry.
I can't say if n46 is the same as ISO 46

 

[reelnative]

i think the whole system is tied together front axle trans and rear axle and the 2 hyd pumps and steering, well thats what im getting from its book, does that sound normal for these china tractors, i do know it has 2 hyd pumps, cause i found one under the batt box in the front of the tractor and there is one by the starter also, im wondering when i drain this thing tomorrow how many drain holes im gonna have to pop and how many fill holes there are, also i think i fig out my loss of power issue when it heats up, im thinking i have my valves adj too tight, i set them at .30mm and it was a tight .30 and i think they need to be at .35 to .40 do you think that much diff would make it loose power thinking it also might help the starting too

 

[Bob Rooks]

I'm not sure what your book calls for but I would go for .25 mm for the intake and .35 mm for the exhaust. Valve lash affects valve timing. If the valves are too tight the valves will open slightly early and close too soon. However, I don't think this is your power loss problem.
Would it be too much of a problem to inspect one or two of those rod/main bearings?

 

[greg_g]

N46 is the Chinese expression for either ISO46 or AW46. All three are the equivalent of a light 20 weight engine oil. N68/ISO68/AW68 is a slightly "heavier" 20 weight equivalent. But ISO46/AW46 are specifically hydraulic oils, not especially suitable for gear trains. You should be using trans-hydraulic fluid, commonly called UTF or THF. Whatever the name, it too is a 20W equivalent - but is actually formulated for gears AND hydraulics. On your tractor, one common fluid is shared by the transmission/rear diff and the hydraulics. The front differential however, is independent. You can use UTF/THF up there, but personally I'd recommend conventional 80W90 gear oil.

//greg//

 

[reelnative]

I'm not sure what your book calls for but I would go for .25 mm for the intake and .35 mm for the exhaust. Valve lash affects valve timing. If the valves are too tight the valves will open slightly early and close too soon. However, I don't think this is your power loss problem.
Would it be too much of a problem to inspect one or two of those rod/main bearings?

hey bob it would only be about 15 bolts dropping the oil and pan, why what do you think is going on

 

[Ross71]

i think the whole system is tied together front axle trans and rear axle and the 2 hyd pumps and steering, well thats what im getting from its book, does that sound normal for these china tractors, i do know it has 2 hyd pumps, cause i found one under the batt box in the front of the tractor and there is one by the starter also, im wondering when i drain this thing tomorrow how many drain holes im gonna have to pop and how many fill holes there are, also i think i fig out my loss of power issue when it heats up, im thinking i have my valves adj too tight, i set them at .30mm and it was a tight .30 and i think they need to be at .35 to .40 do you think that much diff would make it loose power thinking it also might help the starting too

One hydraulic pump is for the power steering, the other is the standard hydraulic system. Front axle is completely isolated from main drivetrain. The rear to front driveshaft runs in a tube under the gearbox, and has a grease nipple roughly halfway along- bet its never seen a grease gun.

Ross

 

[Rich Waugh]

From the sound of the previous issues, I'd bet none of the zerks have ever seen a grease gun.

 

[reelnative]

One hydraulic pump is for the power steering, the other is the standard hydraulic system. Front axle is completely isolated from main drivetrain. The rear to front driveshaft runs in a tube under the gearbox, and has a grease nipple roughly halfway along- bet its never seen a grease gun.

Ross

yes ross it got grease when i had it out to install the new pistons rings and bearings

 

[reelnative]

From the sound of the previous issues, I'd bet none of the zerks have ever seen a grease gun.

rich i had my 9yr old son hit all of them with my electric grease gun

 

[reelnative]

I'm not sure what your book calls for but I would go for .25 mm for the intake and .35 mm for the exhaust. Valve lash affects valve timing. If the valves are too tight the valves will open slightly early and close too soon. However, I don't think this is your power loss problem.
Would it be too much of a problem to inspect one or two of those rod/main bearings?

bob im still sitting here with my ratchet and a 13mm socket ready to pull off the oil pan and get at those rod bearings but why do you want me to do it and what am i looking for hahahah not really I left the barn about 3hrs ago, we had such a bad storm come up on us it was like a mini hurricane, but in sw fla we are use to those, there were tree limps breaking and they were flying past my home and barn, that doesnt bother me much im kinda use to that but when that lightning starts cracking close by i know its time for me to run inside cause my barn is a 1000sq ft metal quanset hut, bob i also sent you a couple of e-mails