ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please.

[Xfaxman]

Yeah, I've been giving this some thought too. Especially after borrowing my neighbor's drag scraper. I was thinking about the wheels being farther back and hitching the front to the 3pt to gain more flexibility.

Xfaxman, did you build this??

No, but wish I had a patent on it! :laughing:

Found it on Google Images. It is from the UK and seems to be the only one in cyber space.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Travis, how about an option to convert the smaller ones into a drag scraper?

Notice the tongue pinned to the 3 point attaching pins, and the removable wheels.
View attachment 333488 View attachment 333489 View attachment 333490
Pictures from Google Image Search.

Pretty interesting. I'll show it to Ted.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I really like the shank mount setup. I can understand where it is higher cost - material, process, labor - but it does seem to me like it would be a much better design than the common through the tube design you see everywhere.

How thick is the material on that unit again? That is a BIG BB, likely to be used on a big tractor with big HP doing big work.....3/4" - 1" sides?

...

The hitch and sides are 1/2" thick with an extra 1/2" plate welded on the bottom leading edge. The front 6x6 tube is 3/8". This box is designed for big tractors moving lots of material.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

That last picture is definitely worthy of THE BEAST name, even if I still think a fifth grader came up with the name.

Yea, it's definitely worthy.
I think it makes the guy sitting on it look like a 5th grader.:laughing:

 

[Xfaxman]

You can get a larger bite going forward. Some people don't need that capability, others do.

I have seen this comment from many people, but don't understand the physics of it. I know the rear fixed blade is at the same level as the front, so when you tilt the front down with one of Brian's hydraulic top links, the rear fixed blade is higher and won't hold the box blade up.

If you set the angle with the standard adjustable top link, you can completely fill the box, can't get any larger bite than that!

 

[BGigHarbor]

I may be wrong, but I think the reason a hinged box can dig deeper is a combination of the rear floating higher than a fixed when angled but also perhaps because the hinged back allows some spillage. So one could get a slightly deeper bite in front without stalling the tractor.

Might be a small difference, but sometimes small differences are important when doing something enough.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have seen this comment from many people, but don't understand the physics of it. I know the rear fixed blade is at the same level as the front, so when you tilt the front down with one of Brian's hydraulic top links, the rear fixed blade is higher and won't hold the box blade up.

If you set the angle with the standard adjustable top link, you can completely fill the box, can't get any larger bite than that!

You understand that by tilting the box forward, you have just changed the proper cutting angle of the cutting edge, right? :confused3: Just like so many like to do that to get their rippers deeper into the ground. Now instead of having the proper cutting angle for the cutting edge or the rippers, you are putting those edges at a more straight up and down angle and have lost a lot of the capability of the implement. There are different needs and uses for everything. Can it be done without an implement intended for a particular use, you bet. Is it as fast or easy, no. Just as I am a huge proponent of having the float function available for top & tilt cylinders, many people say why? If you have a lot of work to be done, and the conditions warrant it, it can make a huge difference.

 

[BGigHarbor]

You understand that by tilting the box forward, you have just changed the proper cutting angle of the cutting edge, right? :confused3: Just like so many like to do that to get their rippers deeper into the ground. Now instead of having the proper cutting angle for the cutting edge or the rippers, you are putting those edges at a more straight up and down angle and have lost a lot of the capability of the implement. There are different needs and uses for everything. Can it be done without an implement intended for a particular use, you bet. Is it as fast or easy, no. Just as I am a huge proponent of having the float function available for top & tilt cylinders, many people say why? If you have a lot of work to be done, and the conditions warrant it, it can make a huge difference.

I am new to this whole tractor thing. When is the float helpful for the tilt?

I just ordered 3 rear remotes for my new tractor, but only one float. Figured for the top in certain cases but didn't think past that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am new to this whole tractor thing. When is the float helpful for the tilt?

I just ordered 3 rear remotes for my new tractor, but only one float. Figured for the top in certain cases but didn't think past that.

Well, some people use it when raking their fields. The rake follows the ground instead of the tractor. I use it when finish grading-smoothing my roads, especially at intersections where the camber of the road changes as you go around the corners. That way the implement follows the ground instead of the tractor. See a trend? You use it when you want the implement to follow the ground, not the tractor.

If I were you, I would be on the phone and getting 2 of those remotes with the float function.

 

[bcp]

A problem I had with a fixed rear blade: A hinged rear blade will allow you do dig in a concave position, like the foot of a hill or the rear side of a pit. A fixed rear blade doesn't allow the front blade to cut in those positions.

Bruce