My new L4060 HSTC pics!

[BGigHarbor]

Stu, currently running 4-6 weeks. Great for me,:thumbsup: not so good for my customers. I need to automate, :drool: but don't have the time or the $$$$

Brian, don't know if you will see this but:

I will have a new l5460 soon (52hp, cat I,II) and was wondering two things:

What's the backorder time currently on TnTs from you? Still 4 - 6 weeks?

Do you know the specifics of this machine (same last corresponding l40 I guess) in terms of sizing, hoses, etc?

I am a bit squirrely to get TnT installed but thought I'd ask before I buy the OEM ones.

Thanks, Bill

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, don't know if you will see this but:

I will have a new l5460 soon (52hp, cat I,II) and was wondering two things:

What's the backorder time currently on TnTs from you? Still 4 - 6 weeks?

Do you know the specifics of this machine (same last corresponding l40 I guess) in terms of sizing, hoses, etc?

I am a bit squirrely to get TnT installed but thought I'd ask before I buy the OEM ones.

Thanks, Bill

3-5 weeks. If you get the Kubota units, be sure that the side link is truly a mid stroke unit. I know that guys on TBN say that they are, but in reality only some of them are not. I do believe that the units for your tractor would be right though. You don't have to have the tractor to place your order. You can get in line and have the clock start ticking just by placing your order. $650 + shipping cost. Email me if you are interested.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Thanks. I should get the tractor in about a week so my decision will be if I could wait that long (Oct) or have the OEM tnt from the get go.

Got lots of critical work to do before the wet season and think the TnT will make me much more productive overall (and more fun).

If I wasn't so impatient I would for sure order from you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks. I should get the tractor in about a week so my decision will be if I could wait that long (Oct) or have the OEM tnt from the get go.

Got lots of critical work to do before the wet season and think the TnT will make me much more productive overall (and more fun).

If I wasn't so impatient I would for sure order from you.

Get the Kubota units, there only a few $$$ more and be happy now.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Get the Kubota units, there only a few $$$ more and be happy now.

Too bad for me as I had hoped to buy your kit but good news for you that you are so swamped! What a problem to have :thumbsup:

 

[BGigHarbor]

So tell me about the "Rake Master". I've got the same ride as you and I'm jonesing for a grapple real bad. Yours looks like just what I need.

I'm just about to the 50 hour service on my L4060 and I love it. Congratulations!

John or Stu,

My dealer said they are currently looking at the instructions for the 3 rear remotes for my l5460.

Here's an excerpt of his email

This is the order of slots. The two parallel slots are positions one and two. Number one being closest to the operator. Position 3 is one above. The rear remotes plug-ins are stacked 1 to 3 from top to bottom. It looks like you can mix and match the remote valves but you can稚, for example, tie lever one to remote plug-in three. They must stay in order.



I can find pics of older rear remote levers, but not on the lxx60 so I am not quite visualizing it esp if levers are different lengths.

This is the only pic I have been able to find (without levers) and I don't remember the details when I was at the dealers. I am guessing the circled area is the new slots for levers.

Since the lever position determines the rear coupler position, my first thought is to put the non floater valve lever (the other two are for floats mostly for TnT) in the position easiest to get to and just deal with the positions of the rear couplers by hose routing.



Are the levers the same length?

Also I guess the operator would normally be turned to the rear a bit so see what is being adjusted so that might affect which lever is the most convenient.

I would guess #1 or maybe #3 would be easiest to operate blindly but without sitting at the machine with the levers installed I don't know what would work out best esp when turned to the rear.

Any suggestions on which you would choose as the easiest lever for you to operate?

edit: the dealer tells me he likes the #3 position the best for the non float rear valve when he sits at the tractor. I guess I'll just go with what he thinks best given they are at that stage and I can't get in there for a day or two to make up my own mind.

 

[PSDStu]

John or Stu,

My dealer said they are currently looking at the instructions for the 3 rear remotes for my l5460.

Here's an excerpt of his email

This is the order of slots. The two parallel slots are positions one and two. Number one being closest to the operator. Position 3 is one above. The rear remotes plug-ins are stacked 1 to 3 from top to bottom. It looks like you can mix and match the remote valves but you can稚, for example, tie lever one to remote plug-in three. They must stay in order.



I can find pics of older rear remote levers, but not on the lxx60 so I am not quite visualizing it esp if levers are different lengths.

This is the only pic I have been able to find (without levers) and I don't remember the details when I was at the dealers. I am guessing the circled area is the new slots for levers.

Since the lever position determines the rear coupler position, my first thought is to put the non floater valve lever (the other two are for floats mostly for TnT) in the position easiest to get to and just deal with the positions of the rear couplers by hose routing.



Are the levers the same length?

Also I guess the operator would normally be turned to the rear a bit so see what is being adjusted so that might affect which lever is the most convenient.

I would guess #1 or maybe #3 would be easiest to operate blindly but without sitting at the machine with the levers installed I don't know what would work out best esp when turned to the rear.

Any suggestions on which you would choose as the easiest lever for you to operate?

edit: the dealer tells me he likes the #3 position the best for the non float rear valve when he sits at the tractor. I guess I'll just go with what he thinks best given they are at that stage and I can't get in there for a day or two to make up my own mind.

View attachment 334337

I have just 2 remotes, NR1 is for my Side Link, NR2 is for the Top Link.

The one thing I would caution you about is to be aware that with the OEM TNT kit, that your side link may drop down some while being used. I thought that the OEM side link would remain steady in whatever position I set it for......that is not the case....at least for me with the OEM TNT kit.

Just be aware that you may have this same issue.

Good Luck!

Stu

 

[BGigHarbor]

Stu,

Thanks for the heads up on the leakdown.

Some other poster reported the same thing, but he did some other testing that had been suggested by MtnViewRanch. If I recall correctly, he disconnected the leaking side from the coupler and found some of the leaking was happening at the coupler or valve itself.

Hope I don't have that trouble, though. I know some is normal, but how far per hour would you estimate your side link moves?

edit: I looked again and that poster with the leak was you. Bummer. And if I understand correctly, you determined the culprit was the valve or coupler, not the OEM cylinder. Did you have the same leakdown rate when the tilt was plugged into your other rear remote?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

999 out of a 1000 times it IS NOT THE CYLINDER that leaks, but the control valve. Does not matter who's cylinder it is. My opinion is that the OEM control valves should not leak as some of them do and are considered acceptable. If you are a person that will NEVER use the float function, then maybe that person should be looking at HayTools for there "T&T" set or be darn sure that the dealer will stand behind the equipment that they sell.

Just my :2cents:

 

[BGigHarbor]

Curious if there a simple way for a person to determine how much their rear remote valve "leaks" even if they don't have top n tilt installed? Still wondering what is typical for Kubota rear valves.

Guess I'll find out for myself pretty soon if I have leaky rear remote valves with my OEM TnT which was in stock so I (reluctantly - I would have rather gone with Fit Rite but needed them too quickly) went with it.

Since I went with float valves for the TnT, my understanding is I could not have used a POCV cylinder anyway.

Maybe I'll get lucky or maybe I'll just get used to it. I'll give my report at some point.