clemsonfor
Super Member
OK sorry for confusion I saw the model in title but others and you talking 2210 is why I out it there.
ym226d 3 point struggle
- Thread starter Smoody
- Start date
- Views: 6134
OP
Smoody
Platinum Member
Thanks Winston, so if it falls rapidly with drop valve closed it confirms its the o-ring, did I read that correctly?
OP
Smoody
Platinum Member
no problem, just making sure we are all on the same page here.
OP
Smoody
Platinum Member
$1.90 o-ring! how much disassembly is required to replace that? I hate when the cheapest parts are the most annoying to get to!
Checking the pressure would be one other test I probably would do. The pump could be weak or relief set low or damaged relief spring anything is possible. I agree on the rock shaft piston seal being the worst contributor to your situation just referencing the loader comment. 
clemsonfor
Super Member
If you close that screw valve under the seat, and the implement drops any amount your oring is bad, period. Like i said if i just shut my tractor off my implement will drop like an inch a minute or so thats for the Bushhog. BUT closeing that lockout screw it will hold it in the same, i mean measured with a ruler, same spot for days.
So yes if you close valve and measure how high it is, or just can tell by watching and not leaving it, that it falls you need a new Oring.
On my ym2000 it requires removing the seat, and taking the hydro line loose, taking all the bolts out of the top of it. They you pull it off, engine lift is best, i think it weighs 80lbs and is awkward, im no sissy but no weightlifter either. Im 6'2" and weigh 200lbs and its tough for me to do by my self due to the angle. I stood on floor boards reverse and jerked off as i have a ROPS, and then dead lifted it bent over , then i had to get off as i was holding it in my hands!! I rested on side rails and then moved it over and off.
Yours may be bigger or smaller??? i know winstons 2001 is way bigger/heavier than mine i think??
But once that top is off you will need to pull the end cap off, this is the part that faces rearward. Winston and i have come to the conclusion you may be able to fish the piston out the rear with a strong magnent, there is nothing that holds it. its got a domed rear and the rockshaft rests in the bottom of the piston, this is why you dont want to lift and plop your arms down as it slams the piston.
I pulled both ends on mine, the front end where that lockout vavle is also comes off and the rockshaft is attached to it if i remember right, pull it all out and the piston can be tapped out, i think i used a deadblow handle and knocked mine out. Now that i know how to do it i bet i could redo the whole thing in 2 hours or less, maybe less if i had tools out and was not just hanging out taking pics as i went like i was.
If i had time i would run up there and help you, but due to the baby on the way in NOV its crunch time around here. When i am in lancaster i have to cut grass and tend the place, barely time to sit and enjoy it.
Honestly its an easy job, on my 2000, not sure about yours?? Post a pic and look at my post.
Yes.
You can replace the o-ring by removing the front head #14 figure 54 and the top link hinge #12 on figure 54 in your parts manual. The piston can then be pushed out the front. Yours is just like my 2002d. You will note looking at your drawings or this old thread there are numerous o-rings between the front head and piston housing. Also a gasket behind the top link hinge. Just make sure this is your problem before diving in. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/253878-yanmar-2002d-hydraulic-lift.html
clemsonfor
Super Member
That's right, didn't we conclude that you could replace the big boring while the top was on the tractor. Pretty sure we did. My tip was leaking so I accomplished sealing that up at the same time by removing mine.
OP
Smoody
Platinum Member
I did a few test..first I watched the implement and could see it slightly fall 2-3" right before the line surge..it surged every time just as the implement dropped any..so it is leaking down some even while running..
Next I shut engine off and the implement only lowered a few inches and after an hour was still not all the way down..it did leak down I would say 15 inches in 1 hour..based on info in this thread I thought it would go down a bit faster if the o ring was really bad..
Thoughts?
Next I shut engine off and the implement only lowered a few inches and after an hour was still not all the way down..it did leak down I would say 15 inches in 1 hour..based on info in this thread I thought it would go down a bit faster if the o ring was really bad..
Thoughts?
Sounds like most of your leakage is in the control valve section. I left mine well enough alone. Pretty complicated looking in there. You can look at your parts manual and see what I am talking about. Don't take what I am saying to the bank, just an opinion.
When you say "line surge" I am interrpeting that to mean the lift picks up at that point. Am I correct? Mine was doing very similiar to what yours is doing. After changing the lift piston o-ring it is much better but still with a heavy implement it will do as you described, just not near as bad. I would think changing your lift piston o-ring will help you but not completely stop it.
Bottom line, proceed at your own risk. :2cents:
When you say "line surge" I am interrpeting that to mean the lift picks up at that point. Am I correct? Mine was doing very similiar to what yours is doing. After changing the lift piston o-ring it is much better but still with a heavy implement it will do as you described, just not near as bad. I would think changing your lift piston o-ring will help you but not completely stop it.
Bottom line, proceed at your own risk. :2cents:
