ym226d 3 point struggle

[Smoody]

I have a very heavy disc harrow ..first time I have used it on the ym226..it struggle to lift it..it will take a bit and a lot of rpm to get it to the top of the lift...also once there the hydraulic line jerks every 10-15 seconds like its pumping fluid hard on the line that goes from loader valve to rear 3 point..I checked fluid level and spin on filter is not that old..also already cleaned internal screen when I bought it....

Any one know the lift capacity on the 226 and the GPM pump it has...

It doesn't do that will any other implements...maybe its just simply to heavy for it..it pulls it no problem.

Any better hydraulic pumps / upgrades that can work? Maybe the hydraulic line going to rear lift is to small?

 

[kenmac]

My pump is rated at 8.2 GPM. Don't hold me to it, but I suspect your 2210 is the same

 

[284 International]

Yanmar says 1168lbs "at the hitch" in their brochure for the lift capacity. I can't find any information about the pump sells for the 226; it also fits the YM2020-2420 series machines, but not anything else I can find information about. If you can post the numbers on your pump's data plate, we can help out with the volume, and it can be incorporated into Scotty Dive's terrific compilation of data here: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B85YoHWb2pqbWkVqOUdQZXZja2c/edit

I would speculate that if you lift the implement, and then shut down the engine, your implement will sink at a noticeable rate. I think the surging you're observing is the position control of the lift valve having to remain more or less constantly open, at least a little bit, to maintain the implement at a steady height. You probably should be careful operating with a heavy implement out back using the loader until you repair the leaking seals, because it can put pressure on the return side of the loader valve if it is plumbed in series.

 

[Smoody]

I suppose you are saying leaking seals in rear are bad enough to make the surge as it is having to overwork to keep the implement up..does that explain why it is slow to lift it? The loader has never been real responsive and noticeably slower then my loader on the 2210.

So are you thinking the loader valve is the culprit or rear seals?

If those rating are accurate it should lift the disc with no issues..Noway they weigh close to 1000 pounds..more like 600 likely

 

[winston1]

The 226 repair manual says 6gpm at 2600rpm. Pressure relief valve setting 2209 - 2356psi. Safety valve (surge relief valve) 2503 - 2798psi. Lifting capacity 1168lbs at links end and 816lbs 24" behind link end.

Hydraulic cylinder leakage (during 5 minutes): Less than 0.8 inches with 694 lbs load on 24" behind lower link end.

I agree with 284 about your lift continually trying to keep itself at the right height. My 2002d is exactly like yours and it did that with a heavy load until I replaced the lift cylinder o-ring. When you kill the tractor with the disc in the air will it slowly descend on its own?

 

[Smoody]

makes sense, anyone know the seal part # I need? Didn't see it under "Seals" on Hoye's website.

I will do the descend test by turning off tractor this evening, have not tried that. I suspect it will descend giving the info already provided.

That rear seal wouldn't have an affect of loader performance would it?

 

[clemsonfor]

I suppose you are saying leaking seals in rear are bad enough to make the surge as it is having to overwork to keep the implement up..does that explain why it is slow to lift it? The loader has never been real responsive and noticeably slower then my loader on the 2210.

So are you thinking the loader valve is the culprit or rear seals?

If those rating are accurate it should lift the disc with no issues..Noway they weigh close to 1000 pounds..more like 600 likely

Yes possibly. When you lift with weight on some of the fluid is forced by the orings and causes a slower lift. The same reason why a heavy implement will leak down faster or more than say just a boompole on the back.

I totally redid my ym2000 hydraulics part. New orings where they could be put. The big one looked fine but i did gain some sealing ability or less leakdown by replacing the big oring. I still will leak down while off and is faster than i want but its the valve, i can lock it out and stay in the same place for days.
I called HOYE about a used one (valve that is) and i think they either did not have one or i did not want to spend taht on one that may leak as well. I replace all the orings in the valve but i guess the internal is worn larger?? But the guy at hoye as well as steve at Spalding said why worry, it does what you wnat and does not drop while running right, i said correct, he said if it were my tractor i would leave it.

I still have not replaced it, and it still bugs me, but i have replaced everything i can. the valve needs to be replaced but for $300 new and rolling the dice on half that for a used one i just dont want to spend that cash.

So yes a really bad cyl oring can cause a weak or slow lift and bad leakdown with a heavy implement.


My ym2000 can lift my disk that in my estimate, ballasted is 500ish pounds give or take 50. I also will bypass when lifting but i think its cause its near a limit.

thing the 1000lbs is at the lift arms, your disk likely hangs out 4 feet or more past the arms, giving it leverage.

 

[clemsonfor]

no the seal on the 3pt lift will not affect the loader.

I think dont quote me (hoye can tell you) but i think the ym2000 and 2210 are the same?? I know the valves are different though.

I think winston made a thread when he replaced his seal.

I did as well, and put pictures up in the process. Although i beleive that winstons was way more detailed. I used his as kind of a quide when i did mine.

 

[Smoody]

I see a few are referencing a 2210, I no longer own that machine, just clearing that up..this issue is with my ym226d. I mentioned the 2210 only in comparison to how responsive the loader was compared to my newer ym226d.

I'll replace all the seals and go from there.

 

[winston1]

Likely the only thing you need to replace is the lift piston o-ring. Yanmar Tractor Parts: O-RING 1A P-65.0 0 This is reference #3 on your parts drawing #55. Running the drop test might help confirm that. If it does drop pretty quick then kill the tractor with it up, close the drop valve and see if it does the same. If so, that pretty much takes the control valve out of the picture. Make sense?

 

[clemsonfor]

OK sorry for confusion I saw the model in title but others and you talking 2210 is why I out it there.

 

[Smoody]

Thanks Winston, so if it falls rapidly with drop valve closed it confirms its the o-ring, did I read that correctly?

 

[Smoody]

OK sorry for confusion I saw the model in title but others and you talking 2210 is why I out it there.

no problem, just making sure we are all on the same page here.

 

[Smoody]

$1.90 o-ring! how much disassembly is required to replace that? I hate when the cheapest parts are the most annoying to get to!

 

[Car Doc]

Checking the pressure would be one other test I probably would do. The pump could be weak or relief set low or damaged relief spring anything is possible. I agree on the rock shaft piston seal being the worst contributor to your situation just referencing the loader comment.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks Winston, so if it falls rapidly with drop valve closed it confirms its the o-ring, did I read that correctly?

If you close that screw valve under the seat, and the implement drops any amount your oring is bad, period. Like i said if i just shut my tractor off my implement will drop like an inch a minute or so thats for the Bushhog. BUT closeing that lockout screw it will hold it in the same, i mean measured with a ruler, same spot for days.

So yes if you close valve and measure how high it is, or just can tell by watching and not leaving it, that it falls you need a new Oring.

$1.90 o-ring! how much disassembly is required to replace that? I hate when the cheapest parts are the most annoying to get to!

On my ym2000 it requires removing the seat, and taking the hydro line loose, taking all the bolts out of the top of it. They you pull it off, engine lift is best, i think it weighs 80lbs and is awkward, im no sissy but no weightlifter either. Im 6'2" and weigh 200lbs and its tough for me to do by my self due to the angle. I stood on floor boards reverse and jerked off as i have a ROPS, and then dead lifted it bent over , then i had to get off as i was holding it in my hands!! I rested on side rails and then moved it over and off.

Yours may be bigger or smaller??? i know winstons 2001 is way bigger/heavier than mine i think??

But once that top is off you will need to pull the end cap off, this is the part that faces rearward. Winston and i have come to the conclusion you may be able to fish the piston out the rear with a strong magnent, there is nothing that holds it. its got a domed rear and the rockshaft rests in the bottom of the piston, this is why you dont want to lift and plop your arms down as it slams the piston.

I pulled both ends on mine, the front end where that lockout vavle is also comes off and the rockshaft is attached to it if i remember right, pull it all out and the piston can be tapped out, i think i used a deadblow handle and knocked mine out. Now that i know how to do it i bet i could redo the whole thing in 2 hours or less, maybe less if i had tools out and was not just hanging out taking pics as i went like i was.

If i had time i would run up there and help you, but due to the baby on the way in NOV its crunch time around here. When i am in lancaster i have to cut grass and tend the place, barely time to sit and enjoy it.

Honestly its an easy job, on my 2000, not sure about yours?? Post a pic and look at my post.

 

[winston1]

Thanks Winston, so if it falls rapidly with drop valve closed it confirms its the o-ring, did I read that correctly?

Yes.

You can replace the o-ring by removing the front head #14 figure 54 and the top link hinge #12 on figure 54 in your parts manual. The piston can then be pushed out the front. Yours is just like my 2002d. You will note looking at your drawings or this old thread there are numerous o-rings between the front head and piston housing. Also a gasket behind the top link hinge. Just make sure this is your problem before diving in. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/253878-yanmar-2002d-hydraulic-lift.html

 

[clemsonfor]

That's right, didn't we conclude that you could replace the big boring while the top was on the tractor. Pretty sure we did. My tip was leaking so I accomplished sealing that up at the same time by removing mine.

 

[Smoody]

I did a few test..first I watched the implement and could see it slightly fall 2-3" right before the line surge..it surged every time just as the implement dropped any..so it is leaking down some even while running..

Next I shut engine off and the implement only lowered a few inches and after an hour was still not all the way down..it did leak down I would say 15 inches in 1 hour..based on info in this thread I thought it would go down a bit faster if the o ring was really bad..

Thoughts?

 

[winston1]

Sounds like most of your leakage is in the control valve section. I left mine well enough alone. Pretty complicated looking in there. You can look at your parts manual and see what I am talking about. Don't take what I am saying to the bank, just an opinion.

When you say "line surge" I am interrpeting that to mean the lift picks up at that point. Am I correct? Mine was doing very similiar to what yours is doing. After changing the lift piston o-ring it is much better but still with a heavy implement it will do as you described, just not near as bad. I would think changing your lift piston o-ring will help you but not completely stop it.

Bottom line, proceed at your own risk. :2cents: