My new Ford 4000! -First time Tractor Owner

[Kirk-NJ]

Wain Roy was used on the early industrials. I believe ford bought the rights to them so it's basically the same as the ones used on the 4000.
You have a sherman reverser, 4 forward speeds and 4 revese speed. I don't know why you would ever want to put it into 4th in revese. Kind of like a shuttle shift but you still have to stop and use the clutch between forward and reverse.
Brakes,From the rear of the tractor you should be able to see the rubber, or slots on the back side of the drum. Stick a flathead screwdriver in the slot and turn one way or the other. Easy to put your downriggers down so you can spin the wheels to see if you're tighten or loosen the adjuster.

Kirk

 

[Cbrown9064]

That brake adjuster slot is vertical and about 1.5" long on the rear of the backing plate. Has a star adjuster just like drum brakes on a car, though not self adjusting. Stick a screw driver in there and work the star back and forth to adjust. IIRC, clockwise to tighten and ccw to loosen. Like Kirk says, stick the down riggers down and raise rear wheels off ground to adjust. Tight the adjuster until the brake drags a bit.

I would get a shop manual. Do a Google search. If nothing, get one for a 801 series, the PTO, trans 3 point, engine, brakes will be the same. I recommend getting a factory reprint along with an I&T FO-20. Again, they will cover a lot of the basics. Looks like Yesterday's Tractors has a 1841 reprint.

Does it still have the lower 3 point arms, and touch control on right side of seat? Just curious.

Regarding power for the FEL and backhoe, is there a engine driven pump near the front of the engine?

 

[hatch789]

OK I will do what you guys recommend on the brakes and try to get a manual.

I think I took a pic of the little control arm on the right side of the seat. Is that lever (sticking forward at the moment) the touch control?

OK Problem today... I was working on stuff in the yard, had it in first gear and was going down a slight grade. I was letting the engine act as a brake just like a car going down a hill it was working fine and then near the bottom it puttered and stalled. I have checked everything I can think of and still nothing is getting it started. I have plenty of gas I have checked the bowl filter and gas is flowing perfectly.

I have drained the gas out of the carburetor (not sure if this is a mistake or not) but it made no difference. I checked all the spark plugs and they're fine. It fires 2 or 3 cylinders if you leave it sit for a few minutes and then nothing... Almost acts like it's getting no gas. Do I have to prime this or something? Using Ether on the air filter I get it to fire about 4 to 6 cylinders but then nothing again... almost acting like it's getting no gas????

Suggestions? -It is sitting slightly toward the left so the carburetor is on the low side ...but we're talking a very small tilt to the side maybe 3 or 4 degrees at most. Without proper manuals I am at a loss as to what else to try?

The plugs looked dry with a fine black soot on them and some were like a light brown ...they were not wet like I expected. Did it starve the cylinders for gas somehow and this is why it won't start now?

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Check to see if all your linkage is hooked up and work the throotle lever and look on the carb side to make sure everything moves as it should.

Kirk

 

[hatch789]

Everything seems to be working fine from a linkage standpoint. I have not removed the carb yet to see if things are moving properly inside. Perhaps I need to clean the carb out really well? I was reading other threads and perhaps that is the issue?

OBSERVATION: I drained the fuel out of the carb and the sediment bowl. Put the bowl back on after cleaning it out and checking the screen. Replaced the plug on the bottom of the carb, then I opened the fuel line. The bowl did not fill... I thought it would fill up to the top and then proceed to fill the carb up until the float shut off fuel flow. If this is not happening I suspect something is clogged in the carb which is preventing the carb from filling properly. -Am I right?

What's the recommended way of removing the carb?

 

[Cbrown9064]

Everything seems to be working fine from a linkage standpoint. I have not removed the carb yet to see if things are moving properly inside. Perhaps I need to clean the carb out really well? I was reading other threads and perhaps that is the issue?

OBSERVATION: I drained the fuel out of the carb and the sediment bowl. Put the bowl back on after cleaning it out and checking the screen. Replaced the plug on the bottom of the carb, then I opened the fuel line. The bowl did not fill... I thought it would fill up to the top and then proceed to fill the carb up until the float shut off fuel flow. If this is not happening I suspect something is clogged in the carb which is preventing the carb from filling properly. -Am I right?

What's the recommended way of removing the carb?

Yes, sounds like something is clogging the carb or your float is stuck. Carb is simple to take off. Take off hose from air cleaner. Do you still have the metal fuel line all the way? If so loosen the fuel line to carb and then undo the two nuts and take off carb. Undo choke and throttle while slide carb down.

 

[Cbrown9064]

OK I will do what you guys recommend on the brakes and try to get a manual.

I think I took a pic of the little control arm on the right side of the seat. Is that lever (sticking forward at the moment) the touch control?

Yep, I see it now. Interesting that in one of the pictures your PTO lever is in the "engaged" position. Nothing is hooked up to the PTO shaft? Just a cover? I didn't see a picture of that.

 

[hatch789]

My fuel line has been partly changed over to rubber so I can just loosen the hose clamp on that. But I think I need to remove my little bowl filter fitting anyway so I can properly remove the bottom of my carb. Here are some pics.



OK I'm going to Messick's tomorrow to get some gaskets for my carburetor cleaning. I also want to get new plugs. What type of plugs do I want? I guess I'll also get a new air filter. Might as well do it right! LOL.

Hopefully this thing will run like new when I'm finished with it tomorrow!

OK so if my PTO lever is "engaged" ...will I turn it DOWN to disengage it? If I do that will it give me more power for the rest of the tractor? I can try to take a pic tomorrow but yes I think it's just got a cover over it down there. So I can't see anything spinning but I never got that close when my tractor was running to really see that detail.

 

[Cbrown9064]

What type of plugs do I want? I guess I'll also get a new air filter. Might as well do it right! LOL.

OK so if my PTO lever is "engaged" ...will I turn it DOWN to disengage it? If I do that will it give me more power for the rest of the tractor? I can try to take a pic tomorrow but yes I think it's just got a cover over it down there. So I can't see anything spinning but I never got that close when my tractor was running to really see that detail.

Soundguy posted the below info for me earlier this spring. He is a wealth of information on these tractors.

Air filter? You should have an oil bath filter. Has that been removed?

Push the PTO lever rearward to engage and pull forward to disengage. One way to see if your PTO is powering the hoe is to disengage it and see if the hoe still works.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ford-vintage-tractors/278695-thoughts-ford-861-a.html#post3295048

 

[hatch789]

I'll take a pic but yes i think i simply have a normal air filter now. Maybe someone changed it out long ago? Regarding the PTO lever, can you look at my pic and advise please? I stated earlier that the hoe is not running from the PTO. It has 2 very large hydraulic lines that run everything.

My PTO lever is in the 3 O'Clock position now. Do I change it to 6 O'Clock to disengage it?