Best tire chain style for snow?

[CobyRupert]

I find that this site, with a lot of people's experience is a good shortcut to getting an education that would otherwise take a lot of time and money. :banghead:

Summer flew by and I didn't complete all of my land clearing project, it looks like I'll be draging logs this winter with the JD 5075. I'm mostly concerned about traction when we get a foot or two of the white stuff. Is there a chain style, that's best (or a "best-per-$) for snow on these 16.9-28 tires?
Double ring? V-bar? (What does that mean), the type you see on skidders? With/without vertical bars/lattice?

 

[buickanddeere]

Don't see anything except ladder chains here. Many are going every other side link instead of every 4th to get more chain on the ground.

 

[Egon]

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Just some examples. The uglyier they look the better they may work

 

[bobmisi]

I just bit the bullet and bought a set of Aqualine Talon chains for my Branson with 17.5LX24 R4 tires. They are quite expensive (1200 dollars) but I'm getting too old to be sliding down my long 800 foot downhill driveway, and I'd like to spend a few more years on this earth. Google them and I think you'll like what you see. Most tire chains sink between the lugs making them useless. You need some that will keep the tires in traction with the ground. They're not for hard surfaces as you can see. Good luck.......

 

[3930dave]

Best value for my money was with tractor tire chains for farm tractors

aka tirechains.com

I went with the DuoGrip style - best match for my needs. Helps keep the chains out of the valleys when running deep lug tires. Adding Vbars would have made for more aggressive bite, but I left them off for the bit of pavement use they see.

Pics at the above link and what the other poster linked should help you understand the chain styles.

IMO, some key questions:

1) Flat land or hill use ?

2) How much glare ice do you get ?

3) Rear chains only, or are you doing all 4 ?

3) Do you have pavement or concrete ? If so, what level of surface scratching/gouging can you live with ?

Answering most/all of those should nudge you in the right direction.

Rgds, D.

 

[dave1949]

There is really no serious traction in snow. The traction happens after the tire digs to the bottom of the snow and encounters dirt or whatever.

The studded or v-bar chains will give you some serious traction but they also chew up concrete and asphalt, even with no slippage.

Your 5075e might get along okay in the woods without chains if you pick your day for good snow conditions, and keep a lane to the hitch points in the woods cleared so the snow doesn't get too deep. Don't know if that is feasible for you or not.

Other than that, I'd drop and drag trees close to the wood shed now before chains are needed, then work them up later. You should have month or so.

 

[Chilly807]

I've got studded ice chains, pretty much the same as the Aquiline Talons. Great working chain, but as the guys mentioned not good for hard surfaces. Not that the chain won't work on them, but they chew it up. Mine are Norse Super Tractor, made in Norway I think.. by a company named Tellefsdal. They were about $550 for 11.2 x 24 AG type tires.



I run them loose, as recommended by the manufacturer. They've never come off, there's no way they can really unless something breaks. I'm on the 4th winter with them now, no signs of excessive wear yet.

Sean

 

[IXLR8]

I ran the V-bar chains on my Kioti CK30 for plowing snow. For our 1/4 mile dirt road that often got icy, they were a must have. It seemed as long as I waited until the ground was frozen solid, I didn't have any issues using them on my asphalt driveway. If the ground wasn't frozen, the driveway was too soft to handle the chains. YMMV

 

[ovrszd]

The traction happens after the tire digs to the bottom of the snow and encounters dirt or whatever.

This subject usually has huge debate. But actually the best traction in snow is running on top of a layer of snow. the traction is gained by the tire gripping and compacting snow and rubbing it against the layer of compacted snow under it. The friction between the two layers of snow is what creates the traction. I.e., snow tires with very small sipes rather than huge open lugs.

I have 2-link bar chains for my tractor that work very well. Bought them used from the local governmental organization that ran them on a road grader. Very cheap chains indeed.

But as said above, the uglier the chain, the better they work. And as said above, tirechain.com is a good source of information and pricing.

Post when you buy some and show us pics. We love pics.

 

[Chilly807]

Considering the intended use, I should have mentioned that mine have been used in the woods every year cutting firewood, worked well. The trouble with many design is that the chain can hide between the tire lugs and do nothing. Net or ring style chains prevent that, though I wouldn't recommend solid rings (bear paws) because of poor ride quality and their tendency to "slip and grip". The all-chain type conform to the ground profile and grip better.

Sean

 

[CobyRupert]

I think studed or v bar ones are out, I stack the logs next to a driveway where the log truck picks them up, so a lot of back and forth on the pavement. I expect some marring, but trying to keep it to a minimum.

 

[Egon]

If you have to work in crusted or packed snow the vbar type chains or ones with protrusions on them will work the best. Sorta act like a saw cutting through the snow. Especially good for trails where snowmobiles have semi packed the snow and it's frozen into a hard layer.

 

[3v0]

I find this thread interesting. I always thought that chains only work on ice. Packed snow quickly becomes ice if you slip just a bit.

EDIT: I seem to recall using tractor chains in mud too. So I do not know squat.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I've driven through fourty Vermont winters with cars trucks and tractors and have tried most everything. For tractors these are top dog. If you spin the wheels after you get down to the pavement that's your fault.

 

[DABSGT]

I think studed or v bar ones are out, I stack the logs next to a driveway where the log truck picks them up, so a lot of back and forth on the pavement. I expect some marring, but trying to keep it to a minimum.

I put in a new driveway 2012 so I purchased rubber chains didn't want to mark up or damage it. I have a hill and they did a good job with snow but needed some sand if froze under the snow. I recommend them.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[CobyRupert]

I've driven through fourty Vermont winters with cars trucks and tractors and have tried most everything. For tractors these are top dog. If you spin the wheels after you get down to the pavement that's your fault.

Nice rig. Who made that soft cover?

 

[dave1949]

This subject usually has huge debate. But actually the best traction in snow is running on top of a layer of snow. the traction is gained by the tire gripping and compacting snow and rubbing it against the layer of compacted snow under it. The friction between the two layers of snow is what creates the traction. I.e., snow tires with very small sipes rather than huge open lugs.

I am having trouble picturing what you say to be my actual experience as it applies to tractors.

Let's say I'm pushing a loader full of snow bulldozing a trail, or pulling logs. I fully expect my tires and chains to dig down to the ground unless there is packed snow/ice on the surface that the chains will bite into. I do see dirt and grass on my chains when pushing snow out of a lane even though I'm purposely trying to keep the loader cutting edge off the ground.

Whether I get better traction with a layer of snow or not, I'm at a loss as to how I could make the tractor do that. Once the traction need exceeds the snow layer friction, the chains are going to be digging down. Without chains, you probably go nowhere once the tire slicks up the snow.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Nice rig. Who made that soft cover?

Covermytractor.com A good product that fit my tractor right and delivered as promised.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I am having trouble picturing what you say to be my actual experience as it applies to tractors.

Let's say I'm pushing a loader full of snow bulldozing a trail, or pulling logs. I fully expect my tires and chains to dig down to the ground unless there is packed snow/ice on the surface that the chains will bite into. I do see dirt and grass on my chains when pushing snow out of a lane even though I'm purposely trying to keep the loader cutting edge off the ground.

Whether I get better traction with a layer of snow or not, I'm at a loss as to how I could make the tractor do that. Once the traction need exceeds the snow layer friction, the chains are going to be digging down. Without chains, you probably go nowhere once the tire slicks up the snow.

I've found that going into old snow, that has had time to settle and freeze up ,when it gets deep enough for the drawbar cross plate to drag at about 13 inches deep you are about done chains or not. It just means if it is deeper then that you need to load out or plow off the snow on your way to that tree. I never have any trouble with a fresh snowfall as I'm plowing it. The chains with their studs are for the hard ice under the fresh snow.

 

[dave1949]

I've found that going into old snow, that has had time to settle and freeze up ,when it gets deep enough for the drawbar cross plate to drag at about 13 inches deep you are about done chains or not. It just means if it is deeper then that you need to load out or plow off the snow on your way to that tree. I never have any trouble with a fresh snowfall as I'm plowing it. The chains with their studs are for the hard ice under the fresh snow.

I agree with that. That's why I recommended keeping a path cleared to where the trees are, if feasible and the OP would like to try it without chains. I have similar chains to yours, 3/8" studded Telefsdal from Norway.

I learned my lesson about charging off into deep snow without clearing a retreat path behind me. With chains, it just temps you to get stuck worse. :laughing: