Pole barn on plate?

[Mike476]

Sorry, didn't realize when covering up the concrete contractor's letterhead I'd covered up the building size. That quote was for a 30x40 building.

After a few versions of our original plans we ended up building a 28x40 barn. You're right though, the price was very reasonable. I used them to build my house, my 20x30 woodworking shop and they have my plans for my garage that I hope to start in 2015.

At the end of it I had three weeks to be home (work in Ottawa, family in NS) and aside from the cost consideration there simply wasn't the time to do the concrete, as it was I hung the doors on the barn the morning I left to drive back to Ottawa.

 

[Fossil Farm]

My sister and her husband owned a home in Arnprior Ontario built using this method. When they sold it they had to get an engineer's certificate to confirm the sill and log joists were still sound. The rock walls were still as solid as the day they were set and the logs had been treated when they bought the house, they were still sound when they sold it 15 years later. If I remember correctly the house was close to 120 years old then, that was almost 15 years ago.

We have a farm like that. Just remember, timber harvested 100 years ago had very tight grain. That wood is much more stable and somewhat more rot resistant. Much of it was treated with old school methods like turpentine, etc. and then creosote later in a barns life in some cases. Today's treated wood is fast grown pine that is lucky to last 30 years, even on a gravel bed. Dirt, mud, straw, etc. will most likely build up on those timbers which then encourages insect damage. It would be better to build it properly the first time instead of having to rebuild it in a few years due to damage. If you can hold off for a year or two to save up more money, it might be best rather than building something that would be a maintenance headache. Good luck with your barn.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Late last summer, I looked over a local builder's own barn built in a way I hadn't seen before. He first sunk PT poles like a normal pole barn, but then cut them all off above grade, then built a stick-frame barn on the poles. As I understand it, his goal was to get the cost advantage of the pole barn footing (but only putting down maybe 6' of expensive, PT pole) combined with the construction advantages (for him) of raising ground-fabricated stud walls. His barn has a hay loft with about 4' side walls (ie, the studs are about 16' long with 10+ ft walls on first floor and 4' or so second floor wall...I didn't measure it, but that is my recollection).

 

[dave1949]

Late last summer, I looked over a local builder's own barn built in a way I hadn't seen before. He first sunk PT poles like a normal pole barn, but then cut them all off above grade, then built a stick-frame barn on the poles. As I understand it, his goal was to get the cost advantage of the pole barn footing (but only putting down maybe 6' of expensive, PT pole) combined with the construction advantages (for him) of raising ground-fabricated stud walls. His barn has a hay loft with about 4' side walls (ie, the studs are about 16' long with 10+ ft walls on first floor and 4' or so second floor wall...I didn't measure it, but that is my recollection).

That's interesting. The 16' makes sense, I think above that length the cost per foot goes up.

Did you happen to notice or could see the size of the studs, 2x?

 

[Woody65]

Late last summer, I looked over a local builder's own barn built in a way I hadn't seen before. He first sunk PT poles like a normal pole barn, but then cut them all off above grade, then built a stick-frame barn on the poles. As I understand it, his goal was to get the cost advantage of the pole barn footing (but only putting down maybe 6' of expensive, PT pole) combined with the construction advantages (for him) of raising ground-fabricated stud walls. His barn has a hay loft with about 4' side walls (ie, the studs are about 16' long with 10+ ft walls on first floor and 4' or so second floor wall...I didn't measure it, but that is my recollection).

Those type foundations are called pier footings. They are used a lot near the shore here ( Long Island NY) because of the high water table. Most municipalities won't allow you to stick frame a wall higher than 10 feet without a top plate. Then you can start a new stick built wall on top for your second story.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Perhaps "glulams" would be an option? Structure posts made of glued up 2X stock, PT on the bottom, yellow pine above ground, splined joints. Available in long lengths. Not sure about availability in your area without excessive shipping costs?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Perhaps "glulams" would be an option? Structure posts made of glued up 2X stock, PT on the bottom, yellow pine above ground, splined joints. Available in long lengths. Not sure about availability in your area without excessive shipping costs?

I've seen these once up here. Interesting idea, and much stronger too.
Rigidply Rafters Inc.

 

[rd_macgregor]

That's interesting. The 16' makes sense, I think above that length the cost per foot goes up.

Did you happen to notice or could see the size of the studs, 2x?

I don't remember whether they were 2x6 or 2x8, but I'd guess 2x6.

 

[forgeblast]

Just wondering is what the builder suggesting a rubble foundation?Rubble trench foundation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[QRTRHRS]

I've seen these once up here. Interesting idea, and much stronger too.
Rigidply Rafters Inc.

Thanks. I was actually trying to remember the companies name. I hauled a good many trusses and posts out of that place. Really good people to work with top to bottom.