Trailer Lighting and Storage Mods
- Thread starter Panik
- Start date
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Hey guys I am sorry for dropping off the radar for a couple of days - life got in the way of project work. We've been getting ready to go on a weeks vacation to Gatlinberg and well packing for three kids is a effort in and of itself.
In anycase thank you for the explanation about dummy loads, it makes a bit more sense to me now. As well thanks for the suggestion about the converter box, it should be a pretty vital piece in what I am trying to accomplish.
Roger the box I ended up buying was a tractor supply chest:
I'm planning on mounting it on the front rail of the trailer with most of the area projecting out over the tongue of the trailer - that way I don't have to sacrifice deck area or deal with jack knifing the jeep into it if it was mounted directly to the tongue. While I don't have the ability or tools for welding I am going to have a local guy fabricate a frame and struts so that it is fully supported.
I'm an still researching a solution to the mid marker/turn indicator quandary. Apparently round 2" dual function led's are few and far between. I've found one and I am not real keen on being stuck with only one option down the road if/when something needs replacing. So, without recutting the hole I have already made in the fender it looks like my options are:
1) use a resistor as suggested (most likely)
2) cobble together some form of PWM controller (doubtful)
3) Play around with continuous duty relays/solenoids
I think I might have an idea that might work with relays however I need to sit down with some paper and map out the logic involved.
I did take the time and map out the wiring so that laying under the trailer assembling everything I would have guide to keep me from running off into a different direction than I had originally intended: (numbered boxes correspond to junction boxes. Please excuse any nonstandard notations, I can't even claim to play an electrician or engineer on TV
)
In anycase thank you for the explanation about dummy loads, it makes a bit more sense to me now. As well thanks for the suggestion about the converter box, it should be a pretty vital piece in what I am trying to accomplish.
Roger the box I ended up buying was a tractor supply chest:
I'm planning on mounting it on the front rail of the trailer with most of the area projecting out over the tongue of the trailer - that way I don't have to sacrifice deck area or deal with jack knifing the jeep into it if it was mounted directly to the tongue. While I don't have the ability or tools for welding I am going to have a local guy fabricate a frame and struts so that it is fully supported.
I'm an still researching a solution to the mid marker/turn indicator quandary. Apparently round 2" dual function led's are few and far between. I've found one and I am not real keen on being stuck with only one option down the road if/when something needs replacing. So, without recutting the hole I have already made in the fender it looks like my options are:
1) use a resistor as suggested (most likely)
2) cobble together some form of PWM controller (doubtful)
3) Play around with continuous duty relays/solenoids
I think I might have an idea that might work with relays however I need to sit down with some paper and map out the logic involved.
I did take the time and map out the wiring so that laying under the trailer assembling everything I would have guide to keep me from running off into a different direction than I had originally intended: (numbered boxes correspond to junction boxes. Please excuse any nonstandard notations, I can't even claim to play an electrician or engineer on TV
)aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 16,985
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
If you are doing that much work, I would also run a ground from front to back vs multiple grounds...
I would also see about merging boxes whenever possible. Can you run the front marker lights directly from the toolbox? Can boxes 6, 7 and 8 be merged?
Aaron Z
I would also see about merging boxes whenever possible. Can you run the front marker lights directly from the toolbox? Can boxes 6, 7 and 8 be merged?
Aaron Z
bandaidmd
Platinum Member
the tail light converter goes in the tow vehicle before the plug. If you wire up your 7 wire plug to industry standard pin locations (which by all means you should) you wont be able to pass thru 3 wires for turn and brake only the 2 combined brake /turns.
you have front facing brakelights in your schematic?
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
check the above site for a plug and play adaptor to fit your jeep its much better than hacking up the jeeps factory wireing.
you have front facing brakelights in your schematic?
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
check the above site for a plug and play adaptor to fit your jeep its much better than hacking up the jeeps factory wireing.
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 16,985
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
There is also a 2 to 3 wire adapter available that splits them out: Vehicle to Vehicle Taillight Converter Tow Ready Accessories and Parts 118158
Aaron Z
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 16,985
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
He wants to have turn signals (and only turn signals) for a mid marker light on the fender while retaining combined brake/turn signals in the back. Otherwise, the mid "turn signal" would come on when the brakes come on OR he would have to use a non-standard pinout for his 7 pin connector.
Aaron Z
Thank you Aaron for clarifying the point about the 3 to 2 wire converter versus the 2 to 3 wire converter. My jeep is wired for two wire brake and turn indicator. My plan was to use a converter to go to three wires so that I don't have to deal with the issue of the mid- side markers coming on when I pressed the brake pedal.
Very valid point about combining junction boxes. I may be able to in some cases and may be able to run a ground from the front all the way to the back instead of doing frame grounds. The problem I am running into in that regard is wholly due to the materials I have on hand and the physical constraints of their size.
Because I am using SJOOW as well as six position terminal blocks, which is what I have on hand, there are only so many connections that I am able to make inside of a junction box. But as I said at the beginning you have a very valid point. For better or worse in regards to this project I am going on vacation for about a week so I will have plenty of time to think it over and refine the design.
Very valid point about combining junction boxes. I may be able to in some cases and may be able to run a ground from the front all the way to the back instead of doing frame grounds. The problem I am running into in that regard is wholly due to the materials I have on hand and the physical constraints of their size.
Because I am using SJOOW as well as six position terminal blocks, which is what I have on hand, there are only so many connections that I am able to make inside of a junction box. But as I said at the beginning you have a very valid point. For better or worse in regards to this project I am going on vacation for about a week so I will have plenty of time to think it over and refine the design.
bandaidmd
Platinum Member
ok, that would be one of the scenarios, good suggestion.
panik, your still going to need a seperate marker light or a duel filliment one.
I see you stated your jeep is the old style with combined turn/brake wires so you will not need a converter for the jeep.
I suggest you do what ever you have to do, to run ground wires.
Even if you have to run a separate wire for the grounds, and have to run it outside the conduit.
This eliminates one of the most common failure points.
I always run grounds, and solder all connections on a trailer. And, then cover them with shrink tubing. That lasts me the entire life of the lights, and the paint job. Usually > 10 years.
Even if you have to run a separate wire for the grounds, and have to run it outside the conduit.
This eliminates one of the most common failure points.
I always run grounds, and solder all connections on a trailer. And, then cover them with shrink tubing. That lasts me the entire life of the lights, and the paint job. Usually > 10 years.