Shear bolt madness

[rbarker]

I broke another auger shear bolt on the right side of my 2750d blower last night. Still not sure why it broke but that's beside the point. I can't get the old bolt out. I finally gave up at midnight after kneeling in the snow for about an hour. I'm pretty sure I found the right spot because everything lines up right but I can't seem to drive the old bolt out. I tried a Philips head screw driver (an old one that I don't care about) and something that's worked for me in the past a 16 penny nail. It shouldn't be that hard to drive the bolt out, should it? What am I missing here? I must be doing something wrong.

Any help of suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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[pacerron]

Can you try it from the other end of the bolt?

 

[PeterK]

When you put the new in be especially careful not to over torque the nuts and contribute to their early demise. I buy a bag of each (fan and auger) for mine at the dealer.

 

[dsmiley]

Bob, I lost the same shear bolt a few days ago on my 2750D and I found the old shank using a nail. The auger moves side to side quite a bit and I had to slide it to the right, towards the blower center to find the old shank. The old shank came out with ease.

Dean

 

[Thomas]

If your using bolt w/nut try nylon threaded nuts,just snug nut to washer don't over tighten.
try flat punch just hair smaller than bolt your trying to remove from there side..bolt may have bur which catching.

 

[Soundguy]

do you use a hair brush to brush your teeth?


get a set of punches and drifts. event he cheap 9$ set from harbor freight witht he nice fake leather case. comes with chissles and punches from 1/2" down to pin punch size.

well worth the money!!!


once you get the shank out.. look at the hole to see if it is egged.

post back

I broke another auger shear bolt on the right side of my 2750d blower last night. Still not sure why it broke but that's beside the point. I can't get the old bolt out. I finally gave up at midnight after kneeling in the snow for about an hour. I'm pretty sure I found the right spot because everything lines up right but I can't seem to drive the old bolt out. I tried a Philips head screw driver (an old one that I don't care about) and something that's worked for me in the past a 16 penny nail. It shouldn't be that hard to drive the bolt out, should it? What am I missing here? I must be doing something wrong.

Any help of suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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[rbarker]

Can you try it from the other end of the bolt?

I did but there's not enough room to swing a hammer more than a couple of inches.

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[rbarker]

When you put the new in be especially careful not to over torque the nuts and contribute to their early demise. I buy a bag of each (fan and auger) for mine at the dealer.

I did buy a dozen or so auger bolts and a half dozen fan bolts. When I do get the new bolt in I'll pay careful attention to how much torque I tighten it to. I haven't used a torque wrench before but I will now.

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[rbarker]

Bob, I lost the same shear bolt a few days ago on my 2750D and I found the old shank using a nail. The auger moves side to side quite a bit and I had to slide it to the right, towards the blower center to find the old shank. The old shank came out with ease. Dean

Yeah, that's pretty much what was trying to do and I've had success in the past with that technique. I'm hoping that maybe the daylight will help. I at work now but will try later before it gets dark.

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[rbarker]

do you use a hair brush to brush your teeth? get a set of punches and drifts. event he cheap 9$ set from harbor freight witht he nice fake leather case. comes with chissles and punches from 1/2" down to pin punch size. well worth the money!!! once you get the shank out.. look at the hole to see if it is egged. post back

Yeah Soundguy,I deserve that! LOL a set of punches is in the immediate future. Thanks guys for all the suggestions so far. I will update as soon as I get a chance to get back to it.

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[tcartwri]

I did but there's not enough room to swing a hammer more than a couple of inches.

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Rotate the auger by hand until the hole in the shaft is facing you......

 

[xerman]

By using these suggestions you should be able to get the broken bolt out.
I too have certainly broken my fair share of shear bolts. I have a suggestion that has worked for me for years now. The first time I purchased shear bolts from the dealer I was shocked at how expensive they were. I stopped at the local hardware store and purchased half a dozen #5 bolts (soft) of the correct length and diameter. When I got home I put the dealer bolt next to the hardware store bolt and marked the location where the grooves were located. I then took a dermel tool and cut a groove all the way around at the appropriate location. This has worked great for me and if the bolt breaks it breaks where the grooves are and typically just falls out of the shaft. These make shift bolts have worked just as good as the dealer bought shear bolts and are certainly a lot cheaper.

 

[grsthegreat]

just a thought, but with my old snowblower, in addition to the rotation factor there was also a side to side movement. This at times would trap the broken shear bolt inplace. Would drive me crazy.

At times id have to take the tractor into my shop and hit the area with the weed torch to melt off the snow and free up the rotation in order to get the old pin out

im sooo grateful that my new snowblower doesnt have any shear bolts.

 

[dsmiley]

do you use a hair brush to brush your teeth?

I don't think you understand the situation. The BX2750D snow blower uses special shear bolts which have a reduced diameter at the shear points as seen in this photo. This is a 2750D auger shear bolt.


The reduced diameters prevents a bur from jamming up the shank, in theory anyway. I have sheared 8-10 bolts with mine, auger and fan wheel, and have always been able to easily push the shank out with a nail. I use a nail because I think it's easier to find the old shank "feeling" around with the pointed head as apposed to the flat head of a 3/16" or 1/4" punch. The fan wheel hole cannot be seen without a mirror; it's back inside the shroud, so a good "feel" is necessary to find the hole/shank. So while you would not normally think of a nail as being a better tool in a shear bolt situation, I like it better than a punch in this situation.

Dean

 

[SeymourBota]

Move your PTO selector to 'rear' and this will free up the front PTO. You can then reach in and move the fan blade (which will rotate several turns for each turn of a front auger) around until you can get to the other side of the shear bolt.

I also use a smaller punch to remove the old bolt and both the trip around and the side to side motion must be perfect for the bolt to slide out.

Leave the punch in the hole until you are ready to install the new bolt.

 

[pmhowe]

"do you use a hair brush to brush your teeth?"

No, but I use a tooth brush to clean car and tractor parts.

Phil

 

[Soundguy]

I don't think you understand the situation. n

i don't think YOU understand my post.

I sad to use a proper drift / pin punch to punch out the slug.. and not a nail or screwdriver.

diamater makes no difference. matcht he diamater of the punch just under the diameter of the shank.

 

[techman]

I don't think you understand the situation. The BX2750D snow blower uses special shear bolts which have a reduced diameter at the shear points as seen in this photo. This is a 2750D auger shear bolt.
View attachment 350776

The reduced diameters prevents a bur from jamming up the shank, in theory anyway. I have sheared 8-10 bolts with mine, auger and fan wheel, and have always been able to easily push the shank out with a nail. I use a nail because I think it's easier to find the old shank "feeling" around with the pointed head as apposed to the flat head of a 3/16" or 1/4" punch. The fan wheel hole cannot be seen without a mirror; it's back inside the shroud, so a good "feel" is necessary to find the hole/shank. So while you would not normally think of a nail as being a better tool in a shear bolt situation, I like it better than a punch in this situation.

Dean

Actually the diameter reduction forms the shear point and is done to reduce the force needed as compared to a standard bolt. I buy regular grade 3 bolts and grind the grooves in the bolts. Easier to do compared to setting up the lathe.The edge of the grinding wheel makes a nice "V" groove.

I usually bust 0 to 2 bolts on a good snow. Usually due to a random rock which somehow always ends up on my 1/2 mile driveway.

paul

 

[sandyc]

Just a thought...make sure the motor is off....makes my fingers hurt just thinking about that!

 

[dsmiley]

Actually the diameter reduction forms the shear point and is done to reduce the force needed as compared to a standard bolt. I buy regular grade 3 bolts and grind the grooves in the bolts. Easier to do compared to setting up the lathe.The edge of the grinding wheel makes a nice "V" groove.

The shear will always occur where the bolt intersects the driving and driven pieces whether there is a groove there or not. Assuming normal tolerances, it cannot do otherwise. A groove can be 1/8" to one side and it will still shear at this intersection and not the groove. So the groove itself does not dictate where the bolt will shear. However, if the groove should be at this intersection you can control 2 aspects. One, if there is a burr it will not interfere with shank removal. And two, you can control the shear strength of the bolt with a uniformly reduced cross-sectional area.
I worked in a mechanical repair shop for 41 years and never heard of a grade 3 bolt. I'm not saying they don't exist. Just saying I've never heard of that grade (couldn't find my Machinery's Handbook). Speaking of bolt grades, the fan and auger shear bolts are not the same grade so you should be careful what you use if it's not OEM.