Box Scraper Box Blade use question..

Wa11banger · Jan 2, 2014

Hello fellow TBN members and Happy New Year.

Again with the ignorant questions so I apologize in advance

I have a Foton 404 tractor.. It has the wheels turned out so it is 6.5 feet across outer edge to outer edge.. After reading a ton of posts on Box Blades here I took the advice and got a 7' box blade so I could cover my wheel tracks while working with the tool. Santa was good and got me a brand new one although not the heaviest in the line up it comes in at almost 700#

.

Then I was reading around and several other members were talking about how their BB can stop their tractors in their tracks. One member with a 50Hp tractor stated his 6' BB can stop his in place with the rippers down. Now mine is only 40Hp, it is 4wd, and with those posts I am wondering if I have over sized my purchase and should have stuck with a smaller BB at risk of tire marks in my work area. so here are a couple of questions.

Is there a way I can control the digging depth with the rippers down. I think I understand that you set the box blade for the grade depth you need or desire and it should stay there? but do the rippers draw it down naturally due to thier angle

Is there a trick or lesson that applies to the angle of the blade using the top link that can help a newbie like me control the problem? Angle back a little etc? or does it just come from practice?

Lastly, every video I have seen shows the tool being pulled for use. My BB has a blade on the back as well can you go backwards and push? If so is there any particular gotcha moments to watch out for to keep me from damaging it that way?

Thanks all.

/pine · Jan 2, 2014

To start with your last first...a 3PH is not really meant to push backwards...light loads are OK but the arms can be bent or worse...

as for the scarifiers stopping the tractor...it is usually a case of a big root or big rock... remember a tractor is not a bulldozer...

cartod · Jan 2, 2014

I think that that box blade is going to be too big for tractor. If it does pull it, it will take every horse you got. My 33hp 4wd tractor with loaded tires and a FEL is about all the tractor wants, especially if full and pulling up any incline.

sd455dan · Jan 2, 2014

Wa11banger said:
Hello fellow TBN members and Happy New Year.

Again with the ignorant questions so I apologize in advance

I have a Foton 404 tractor.. It has the wheels turned out so it is 6.5 feet across outer edge to outer edge.. After reading a ton of posts on Box Blades here I took the advice and got a 7' box blade so I could cover my wheel tracks while working with the tool. Santa was good and got me a brand new one although not the heaviest in the line up it comes in at almost 700# .

Then I was reading around and several other members were talking about how their BB can stop their tractors in their tracks. One member with a 50Hp tractor stated his 6' BB can stop his in place with the rippers down. Now mine is only 40Hp, it is 4wd, and with those posts I am wondering if I have over sized my purchase and should have stuck with a smaller BB at risk of tire marks in my work area. so here are a couple of questions.

Is there a way I can control the digging depth with the rippers down. I think I understand that you set the box blade for the grade depth you need or desire and it should stay there? but do the rippers draw it down naturally due to thier angle

Is there a trick or lesson that applies to the angle of the blade using the top link that can help a newbie like me control the problem? Angle back a little etc? or does it just come from practice?

Lastly, every video I have seen shows the tool being pulled for use. My BB has a blade on the back as well can you go backwards and push? If so is there any particular gotcha moments to watch out for to keep me from damaging it that way?

Thanks all.

My first question would be what does the 404 weigh, if it is heavy like my chinese tractor - 5400#s before adding the loader or the back blade and if like most chinese tractors the 40 hp is @the pto and rated @12 hours of continuous duty -then I think it will pull it fine.
I run my Gannon 76 inch box -1000+#s on my Rhino and my ford 3000 and it will pull it on both machines although if I get to aggressive the ford will spin and require lifting the box blade if it gets to full and the drag gets to high. I would try it ...

oldnslo · Jan 2, 2014

Ripper/scarifiers depth is controlled by the operator running the controls. If you start spinning lift the 3PH a little, pulling easy lower the 3PH a little. Blade narrower than the tires would potentially cause problems if you are trying to cut a ditch or create a bank of some sort.

Being an odd ball I have a 5 footer than I used on my BX1850 and now on my Branson 2400H. Yes sunk deep it will spin but I have yet to fail on finishing a job by taking a couple more passes.

jeff9366 · Jan 2, 2014

Wa11banger said:
Hello fellow TBN members and Happy New Year.

After reading a ton of posts on Box Blades I took the advice and got a 7' box blade; it comes in at almost 700# .

Is there a trick or lesson that applies to the angle of the blade using the top link that can help a newbie like me control the problem? Angle back a little etc? or does it just come from practice?

Lastly, every video I have seen shows the tool being pulled for use. My BB has a blade on the back. Can you go backwards and push?

For serious Box Blade use T-B-N consensus plumps for 150 pounds (+/-) of weight for every foot of Box Blade width. So 700 pounds is not too heavy and comfortably within the capability of a 40-hp, reasonably heavy tractor with four wheel drive, unless you have beastly soil. It is easiest to peel with a Box Blade when the soil is a little moist, hardest when brick dry, you will not have tire traction in mud or soil conditions resembling mud.

Longer Top Link = more bite from Box Blade, thicker peel.

Shorter Top Link = less bite because blade will be more vertical/scraping rather than peeling. You want shorter Top Link to smooth as you approach job completion.

TRACTORS ARE DESIGNED TO PULL. You can reverse - push, gently, LOOSE dirt, IF YOU HAVE RIGID THREE POINT STABILIZERS supporting two Lower Links of Three Point Hitch. (See picture)

If you have "Turnbuckle" "check chains" you will bend them if you push. (Ask me how I know.)

It takes quite a few operating hours to master Box Blade technique.

LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/285687-kubota-b3300su-rollover-box-blade.html

Stayed in the CCC cabins in Monte Sano State Park during early December. Nice. Quiet.

Poopdeck Pappy · Jan 2, 2014

That may have been one of my posts you mentioned about the Gannon 6' blade stopping the tractor. One thing that will make a difference is the type of soil you have. I have heavy, black, gummy clay. It will definitely bog the tractor down if the box blade and rippers dig in too much.

In loose sandy loam like Jeff has it would not bog down as much, as it takes less force to pull through it.

I looked up your tractor on TractorData.com and it shows it to have 40hp and weigh approx 4,300 pounds. I think your tractor is right on the edge of being ok for that blade, but maybe not. If you don't have the rear tires filled, you should get them filled to help with traction. If you find your tractor a little too light and/or underpowered, just take smaller bites. If your tractor has draft control on the 3point hitch, fiddle with it some to limit the bite.

Poopdeck Pappy · Jan 2, 2014

Oh, and you would not want to be digging or blading with much force going backwards and using the back edge of the blade. It puts too much stress on the 3 point hitch lower arms. That back edge is intended for light duty work such as leveling loose dirt piled up.

Wa11banger · Jan 2, 2014

All thanks for your replies all good info.

Jeff, thanks for the tip about filled tires, I do not yet but will soon. I have a FEL installed so hopefully that helps some as well. I do have rigid style pin adjust links like you show in your pics but they are on the outside instead of the inside and the go back to the axle mounts on each side. Great advice on the tilt to thank you

Pappy, I think it was one of your posts that I was quoting. I do have draft control but am still struggling with how to use it. Hopefully with practice I will figure that part out. I look forward to spending more time in the seat and getting some experience with it soon

Ken45101 · Jan 3, 2014

You just adjust the depth of the scarifiers to fit the soil conditions that you have. Or maybe take out a couple of them. As noted, the tilt also affects this.

Does you tractor have a "draft" control? If so, using it (and the proper toplink attachment point) should cause the 3pt to lift when the pull gets too hard. Sort of automatically adjusting your depth to the load.