Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch

[rfore1]

I have an old John Deere 5 ft Rotary Cutter, I think its a model 127, does a good job and its been dependable for years. It has a disc type slip clutch that i dont see anymore, no bolts holding it together. There is play between the clutch and gear box housing, but it appears that the shaft is ok. It has a large notched nut in front of the clutch( u joint end) and a bolt that runs through the u joint towards the gear box shaft. I dont know if this play is normal. If not how do I get the clutch off.


Thanks,
RF

 

[kebo]

Pictures are worth a 1000 words!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I don't know if your model is the same or not but I worked on a deere rotary mower this summer. I forget the number but the slip clutch came off by taking out the grease nipple and pulling out the ball bearings inside. There's 9 or 11 ball bearings in there. If you go to John Deere Home Page Redirect and look up a parts diagram for your model it should give you clues as to how everything is put together. Parts are expensive.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have an old John Deere 5 ft Rotary Cutter, I think its a model 127, does a good job and its been dependable for years. It has a disc type slip clutch that i dont see anymore, no bolts holding it together. There is play between the clutch and gear box housing, but it appears that the shaft is ok. It has a large notched nut in front of the clutch( u joint end) and a bolt that runs through the u joint towards the gear box shaft. I dont know if this play is normal. If not how do I get the clutch off.


Thanks,
RF

I have that model. It is an extremely tuf gearbox ... 100 or 125HP. I doubt anything is wrong based on the beating I have given mine without problem. That u joint yoke should be held to the clutch cage by 4ea 7/16" bolts. Is it the fingered cage that moves back and forth? Thats normal ~ 1/16"+/- -- a center ~1.125" hexnut revealed under the yoke limits the movement. If it isnt that, remove the center nut and the cage and look around for problems. I have never been inside on mine so I have no direct experience to help out. The big ~2.5" nut on the back of the clutch sets the force on the disk spring to adjust slip point. No movement back there is there? Is the clutch wobbling?
larry

 

[pmsmechanic]

Try going to this page. It'll give you a parts diagram for your mower. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0614.pdf You can even print a copy if you want.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Try going to this page. It'll give you a parts diagram for your mower. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0614.pdf You can even print a copy if you want.

Thanks for posting this link! Virtually complete info on the mower. We bought it used in 62 or 3 and got no info. We tried it vs the 227Gyramor and it was much more solid -- same gearbox I think. Now Ill know as much or more about it as the dealer, altho buying knives and tailtire is about all I shop for. I keep picking up spares cheap at auction that have been poorly maintained and beaten the body apart. This 600 pound cutter outperforms any cutter Iv seen in its class. ... Small and light enuf to operate with our B9200 Kub - - and strong enuf to cut 8" trees moving forward when powered by the JD 2010 tricycle.
larry

 

[rfore1]

I have that model. It is an extremely tuf gearbox ... 100 or 125HP. I doubt anything is wrong based on the beating I have given mine without problem. That u joint yoke should be held to the clutch cage by 4ea 7/16" bolts. Is it the fingered cage that moves back and forth? Thats normal ~ 1/16"+/- -- a center ~1.125" hexnut revealed under the yoke limits the movement. If it isnt that, remove the center nut and the cage and look around for problems. I have never been inside on mine so I have no direct experience to help out. The big ~2.5" nut on the back of the clutch sets the force on the disk spring to adjust slip point. No movement back there is there? Is the clutch wobbling?
larry

Thanks for the info and yes the clutch has slight wobble to it. I got the clutches off today, but can't get the last plate or hub off.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for the info and yes the clutch has slight wobble to it. I got the clutches off today, but can't get the last plate or hub off.

It is important that you communicate what is wobbling. Is it what I called the fingered cage -- the clutch housing [#10 in the diagram in pmsmechanic link]??? Slight wobble there, and thus the connected u joint yoke, is normal. Put grease in the grease fitting on the housing.
larry

 

[pmsmechanic]

For anybody who is curious the link was easy to do. Just go to John Deere's home page. John Deere Home Page Redirect and follow the links to parts diagrams. Type in the number for your implement and open it up. It's a bit time consuming to get there but it works. You then just copy and paste the page address to this forum. Lots of John Deere's older parts books are in pdf already and that makes them even easier to link and download. Glad I could help you out.

 

[rfore1]

It is important that you communicate what is wobbling. Is it what I called the fingered cage -- the clutch housing [#10 in the diagram in pmsmechanic link]??? Slight wobble there, and thus the connected u joint yoke, is normal. Put grease in the grease fitting on the housing.
larry

Here, ill try and attach a picture or two

 

[rfore1]

Like I said I removed the clutch plates, spring, and castle nut. the wobble is this one piece left on the gear box shaft, thought maybe a bad bearing. Maybe I should have just continued to use it until it quit working or maybe like you said, the wobble is normal.

 

[rfore1]

Still cant find this exact model there

 

[SPYDERLK]

Here, ill try and attach a picture or twoView attachment 362167View attachment 362168

Like I said I removed the clutch plates, spring, and castle nut. the wobble is this one piece left on the gear box shaft, thought maybe a bad bearing. Maybe I should have just continued to use it until it quit working or maybe like you said, the wobble is normal.

Still cant find this exact model there

Bummer. From the numbering system described in the link Im betting thats an 001 series, or a related precursor before they beefed it up. They must have changed the gearbox at 002. Yours has a lighter duty gearbox and general build than the 002. That slip clutch is unrecognizable in comparison. I believe youre right that its a bearng, but maybe a bushing external to the gbox. Is it that large threaded portion that has the wobble? Does the stub shaft extending from it drive the blade? Is there a grease fitting?
larry

 

[rfore1]

Bummer. From the numbering system described in the link Im betting thats an 001 series, or a related precursor before they beefed it up. They must have changed the gearbox at 002. Yours has a lighter duty gearbox and general build than the 002. That slip clutch is unrecognizable in comparison. I believe youre right that its a bearng, but maybe a bushing external to the gbox. Is it that large threaded portion that has the wobble? Does the stub shaft extending from it drive the blade? Is there a grease fitting?
larry

Yes, the large threaded portion has the wobble, as matter of fact from the plate next to the gear box all the way to he end of shaft wobbles, but im pretty sure that is one piece. the large threaded portion is connected to the plate. Yes there is a grease fitting that screws in where the large threads are, had to take it off to back off the castle nut. Yes the end of the shaft you are looking at is keyed on one side and the yoke slips over it and a bolt holds it in place.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yes, the large threaded portion has the wobble, as matter of fact from the plate next to the gear box all the way to he end of shaft wobbles, but im pretty sure that is one piece. the large threaded portion is connected to the plate. Yes there is a grease fitting that screws in where the large threads are, had to take it off to back off the castle nut. Yes the end of the shaft you are looking at is keyed on one side and the yoke slips over it and a bolt holds it in place.

Bear with me here; if the pto drives the end of the shaft then the end does not drive the blades directly. The clutch has to act between there and the blades. If you turn that end does the blade turn positively. ... Or does that [ shaped piece of metal drive the blade.?

I am really intrigued with that jd bushog you have. I can find no representation of it anywhere. :confused2:
larry

 

[rfore1]

Bear with me here; if the pto drives the end of the shaft then the end does not drive the blades directly. The clutch has to act between there and the blades. If you turn that end does the blade turn positively. ... Or does that [ shaped piece of metal drive the blade.?

I am really intrigued with that jd bushog you have. I can find no representation of it anywhere. :confused2:
larry

I can't find anything on it either. I think I'm gonna go to the john deere dealership tomorrow and blow some minds. The whole piece spins freely without the rest of the clutch assembly on it. A friend of mine who has bush hogged and farmed for living most of his life is confused as well. There is a number imprinted on the side of the gear box, w14795, still unable to find anything with that number. Oh and when I say it turns freely, it just spins on the shaft coming out of the gear box, the blades do not turn. Maybe there is some type of clip or ring holding it on that I can't see.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Please CHECK. Does the [ shaped piece spin the blades. Thanks.
larry

 

[rfore1]

Please CHECK. Does the [ shaped piece spin the blades. Thanks.
larry

No, not as far as I can tell, it's not separate from what you see there, but there is a metal disc that fits between the clutches that slips over the square piece you see there. It is a square cut out in the center.

 

[raheimdal]

Looks like a 205 gyromower.

 

[raheimdal]

Odds are the bearing is out of the input shaft on the gearbox. I believe he L shaped bracket you are trying to remove is part of the shaft assembly. Take a look on the JD website for the parts catalog to see the breakdown.

The machine looks to be in nice enough shape that it is worth putting new bearings and seals in. It will also keep the gears in the proper mesh. You may need to add some shims to bring the gears back in alignment and take any end play out of the shaft.