Cutting out flooring close to a wall question

EddieWalker · Mar 2, 2014

I started out with the Dremel version of the Multimaster and really liked how easy it was to make plunge cuts. Especially when working around baseboard, but it's also great on sheetrock and plastic. The Dremel blades are the drawback. They cost as much as the better brands, but last a quarter of the time. Fine Home Building did a test of blades and Bosch came out the clear winner. Nothing else was even close. Their version of the Multimaster is twice the cost of the Dremel and quite a bit heavier, but worth it because of how much better those blades are. $99 for the Dremel or $199 for the Bosch. I have both, but doubt I'll ever use the Dremel again.

For this job I think I'd start out with my sawzall and a really long metal cutting blade to cut through all the nails. Then see if the wood will just pull out.

Eddie

downsizingnow48 · Mar 2, 2014

Interesting thread. In remodeling sorta have to go where the job takes you, not always easy to know in advance. What I understand here is that the bathroom floor is rotten saggy and moldy but the utility room adjoining is OK and the problem ends at the wall. What I would do is the easy part first - run around the walls with a skilsaw and take out the subfloor except for the last 1.5". Now you can put your feet on the ground and really check out the joists, and the adjoining subfloor, and what the condition of the subfloor is underneath the wall between them, and then decide what further work you need to do. If it comes to the oscillating tool, I have one of the Bosch tools like EddieWalker and it will pay for itself the first time you really need it.

ben2go · Mar 2, 2014

The subfloor is sagging between the floor joists.I can get under there through the crawl space.I'm trying to avoid pulling all the insulation and covering out.We may still have freezing weather.In another month I will pull the insulation and replace if need be.I'm doing this on a tight budget and as time allows between doctor appointments.Also,this place will be torn down after we finish remodeling my dad's old place and move in there.Fingers crossed it will happen before winter hit at the end of this year.We are stock piling materials and slowly starting on it.You guys have giving me enough ideas to get that subfloor out.I'll probably buy a knock off HF Fien tool and cut the sub floor as close to the wall as possible.If I need to,I will rough in some stringers between the floor joists to help support the new subfloor.I've run into an issue.I measure what I think is a good section of the subfloor.It measures as 7/8ths. :confused3:

newbury · Mar 2, 2014

ben2go said:
Also,this place will be torn down after we finish remodeling my dad's old place and move in there.

If it's going to be torn down in 10 months I'd just cut it next to the wall, put in 2x6 stringers and move on.

I also have a Fein 250 MM, I've been using it today to trim sheetrock. Like a hair clipper.

dave1949 · Mar 2, 2014

ben2go said:
The subfloor is sagging between the floor joists.I can get under there through the crawl space.I'm trying to avoid pulling all the insulation and covering out.We may still have freezing weather.In another month I will pull the insulation and replace if need be.I'm doing this on a tight budget and as time allows between doctor appointments.Also,this place will be torn down after we finish remodeling my dad's old place and move in there.Fingers crossed it will happen before winter hit at the end of this year.We are stock piling materials and slowly starting on it.You guys have giving me enough ideas to get that subfloor out.I'll probably buy a knock off HF Fien tool and cut the sub floor as close to the wall as possible.If I need to,I will rough in some stringers between the floor joists to help support the new subfloor.I've run into an issue.I measure what I think is a good section of the subfloor.It measures as 7/8ths. :confused3:

Swollen 3/4"?

GPintheMitten · Mar 3, 2014

I agree that if it's being torn down in 10 months I wouldn't worry too much about cosmetics. Regarding the thickness sometimes old houses have odd dimensions compared to current practices.

If you want or need to match it you can combine a couple of layers, like 1/2 plus 3/8 or 5/8 plus 1/4.

Soundguy · Mar 3, 2014

Gunny said:
+1, once you use it, you'll start looking for other uses for it. I use HF tools for those jobs that I think I won't be doing again (or much).

yep. cheap tool for a single use ain't soo bad.

like if I'm working in a bad spot in mud, etc, i'll use a 9.99 hf angle grinder.. etc. don't matter if it only lasts 3 months from grit.. etc..

Soundguy · Mar 3, 2014

good luck!

ray66v · Mar 3, 2014

I agree with Eddie, I would use a sawsall. Use the right blade, and the right touch if you need to go over any joists, and you will get'her done.

Those multi-tools put on a nice show, but unless you build bird houses, and doll houses, or have all the time in the world, pass on them, and those little Dremmels too.

However, If you spent the money for a multi-tool, and insist on using it for something: If the joists run perpendicular to the cut, cut between the joists with a sawsall, and over the top of the joists with the multi-tool. Easy peasy.