Is my MF 231 running too hot??

[murphy1244]

How sure are you of this? (only asking)

Your gauge works?

 

[Travis_R]

Your gauge works?

Yes it does.

Do you think a new gauge would read lower, according to the needle? Or will it read the same because this gauge works?

Thanks

 

[TomSeller]

. But what I do know is when I unplugged the wire off the sending unit WITH THE IGNITION KEY ON, the needle on the temperature gauge instantly bottomed out in the green area on the gauge. When I plugged the wire back in the sending unit, the needle jumped up instantly.

I am not trying to be a smarty, but why did you ask if the gauge was mechanical or electrical if you and taken the WIRE loose and saw the gauge drop?

 

[murphy1244]

Yes it does.

Do you think a new gauge would read lower, according to the needle? Or will it read the same because this gauge works?

Thanks

Not to be mean but after reading your responses I don't think you should be taking this Tractor apart. The Gauge will read lower than what?? The gauge reads so the sender works. If you ever want to see if a gauge works take the wire off and touch it to ground for a second no more. The gauge will spike up.

 

[Travis_R]

I am not trying to be a smarty, but why did you ask if the gauge was mechanical or electrical if you and taken the WIRE loose and saw the gauge drop?

Because that was before I found the sending unit and it wasn't sure.
So you think the gauge is good? (Reading correctly?) or can it work and still not give an accurate reading?

 

[Travis_R]

Not to be mean but after reading your responses I don't think you should be taking this Tractor apart. The Gauge will read lower than what?? The gauge reads so the sender works. If you ever want to see if a gauge works take the wire off and touch it to ground for a second no more. The gauge will spike up.

No you're not being mean, I understand.. What I'm referring to about the gauge reading "lower", is, should the NEEDLE ON THE GAUGE be lower than what the temperature actually is?? In other words, if I install a new gauge, will the needle be lower in the green, compared to the old gauge at the same tested temperature. ...talking about the old gauge giving a false reading even though it works... The engine can be completely cold. Like if I start it for the 1st time in the morning.. Well if I ONLY turn the key to the ON position, the needle will rise up in the green some (like the engine is a little warm or something) before I even start the engine. Shouldn't the needle be bottomed out in the cold green?? What I'm asking is "is this normal for the needle to do this", or is the gauge faulty?? This is the main reason I started this thread was because the high needle reading on the gauge. Let me know how many of y'all I've confused...

 

[TomSeller]

1. In other words, if I install a new gauge, will the needle be lower in the green, compared to the old gauge at the same tested temperature. ..

2. talking about the old gauge giving a false reading even though it works... The engine can be completely cold. Like if I start it for the 1st time in the morning.. Well if I ONLY turn the key to the ON position, the needle will rise up in the green some (like the engine is a little warm or something) before I even start the engine. Shouldn't the needle be bottomed out in the cold greed?? What I'm asking is "is this normal for the needle to do this", or is the gauge faulty?? .

1. None of these gauges without numbers on them* are what I would call "accurate". When compared to another there will be variations, that is part of why they don't put numbers on them. But they will be repeatable if in good working order, so learn where yours runs under normal conditions and get concerned if it goes much higher.

2. This is the first I have heard of your gauge going into the green when it is cold and you simply turn the key on. Either the gauge or the sending unit is bad. That is not normal. I am short of spare time, so when this happens to me, I buy a matched set of sender and gauge and replace both.

*and some with numbers.

 

[Travis_R]

1. None of these gauges without numbers on them* are what I would call "accurate". When compared to another there will be variations, that is part of why they don't put numbers on them. But they will be repeatable if in good working order, so learn where yours runs under normal conditions and get concerned if it goes much higher. 2. This is the first I have heard of your gauge going into the green when it is cold and you simply turn the key on. Either the gauge or the sending unit is bad. That is not normal. I am short of spare time, so when this happens to me, I buy a matched set of sender and gauge and replace both. *and some with numbers.

With the key in the "OFF" position the needle is all the way to the left in the green, which is bottomed out. If I turn the key to the "ON" position without starting the engine, the needle will automatically move up to about a 1/4 in the green and the engine isn't even started! Just as cold as can be!

This is why I'm asking if I install a new gauge, will it do the same thing?

 

[TomSeller]

This is why I'm asking if I install a new gauge, will it do the same thing?

Maybe. Unless the sender is bad. That is why I replace both on these low dollar items. Prior to doing that, make sure you have good, clean electrical connections.

 

[Travis_R]

Maybe. Unless the sender is bad. That is why I replace both on these low dollar items. Prior to doing that, make sure you have good, clean electrical connections.

I agree.
But like I stated in previous posts, I'm not going with a gauge that has the numbers in degrees on it. I thought about it at first, and yes I know it would be better, but it would take away from the originality of the tractor. I strongly believe in keeping things in their most original condition as possible. I guess mainly because it's rare to find 'originals' as things get older.
Whether I keep the old temp gauge or buy one identical to it, I'll still have that infrared thermometer with me if I'm ever in doubt.
The tractor came with this gauge and has worked all these years. Besides that, the production started in 1989 on the MF 231 and I'd be willing to bet this same gauge was used from then all the way til 1999 when the production stopped.
Another thing to consider, these gauges are still made! So this tells me they wasn't inaccurate or defective enough to stop making them because of recalls.

But I certainly agree that the numbered gauge would be much more better. It's just the originality side of it for me.

I'm certain I'll end up changing the temp gauge and sending unit. Not much money will be spent, and what I've already bought hasn't costed just a few dollars anyway. I've spent more time than anything. But that was my fault.

I absolutely don't regret changing the thermostat, (well yeah having to do it twice I regret LOL) but if I would have known from the start what I have learned up til now, all I would have done is changed the radiator cap. But I did figure a thermostat would go bad before a cap would.

I wasn't gonna change the sending unit or gauge but have since decided to because I'm already into it and they're both very reasonable in price and easy to change.

Just having a tuff time deciding on aftermarket thermostat and sending unit, or get them from a Perkins Engines dealer about 30 minutes away.