Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points

[RKJeepXJ]

Ha! I see you run his big brother. The end-user modification you speak of is in your future, too. Back up the BB a few times and yours will look just like mine. For awhile I was thinking one of my links was defective as it was bent and the other was straight. Now they're both bent to match without any effort on my part. Bob

Wasn't speaking of the bend in the end of the linkage, mine are like that from the factory, no backing up with a blade needed. The bend forces it to buckle in a controlled direction when the link is put in compression. I was referring to the slop in his linkage adjustment. If the OP would straighten out the linkage at the pivot he could get it a bit tighter and reduce a lot of away in the implement. Underdog's pics show what I was trying to convey.

 

[RG1]

Something else you could do is just go to TSC and buy some Cat 1 pins with the threads and nuts. Mount them so that the shank stick in between the ears and the pins in towards the center of the BB. Similar to what they do on Cat 1/ Cat 1 limited mounts.

For the record- Standard Cat 1 is 26" spread on the lower links.

These are the std pins I am referring to-

 

[YardBikeBob]

YardBike, I have the the exact same tractor as you, here are some pics of mine with a Cat 1 quick-hitch attached. Mine is nice and tight and doesn't sway much at all. I think you just need an adjustment.

Thanks for the pics. Man, that is tidy. So you ever back that thing up? So you got me thinking about how much slop there is supposed to be in those links.

I dropped the BB to pull the tractor in out of the rain. There is only one position on the link where the arm won't clank the PTO shroud or get over into the tire. Here is a pic with full 3-point arm movement each way (nothing mounted).

Note when going towards the tire, the geometry caused by that bent ear adds to a lot of the slop and makes it appear as if the link is out of adjustment -- too long.

Another words, once the 3-point arm is splaying out, the link ear bend causes the link adjustment to look wrong.

Maybe I will take the male section off and try the BFH method of adjustment in the morning. Either way I'm shopping for new Cat 1 pins on the BB.

Bob

 

[YardBikeBob]

Something else you could do is just go to TSC and buy some Cat 1 pins with the threads and nuts.

For the record- Standard Cat 1 is 26" spread on the lower links.

Yes, thread Cat 1 studs poking inside the mount would seem ideal.

But the shroud that bolts on and reaches up for the top link does not give a flat mating surface for torquing down the bolt on pins.

Cat 1 spec is 26" spread? Thanks, didn't know that. Oddly, Woods can claim they are in spec -- at the max end of the spec.

Bob

 

[YardBikeBob]

I think the answer is to get longer pins to mount on the inside.
View attachment 374908

Yes. Exactly what I hope to do. I wonder if that big washer has a special name. . .

Thanks, Bob

 

[YardBikeBob]

Well Bob, Since my 37" rear end is bigger than your 32" (Boy, that doesn't sound right) I guess you'll just have to break down and buy a Cat 1 BB that will fit your skinny rear end and ship the one you have up to me. I'll force myself to take it off your hands.

This is very rocky, hill terrain and I've observed some pretty beat up BBs around here. The irony is that I paid a lot of extra dollars to get "the strongest, heaviest 6' BB that fit behind my new tractor!"

Got that in spades.

Bob

 

[k0ua]

I am going to try one more time.. your last picture shows the link straightned out and then "jacknifed".. but what I am trying to say.. is straighten both out. Then adjust for sway so that the implement does not hit the tire.. when the implement wants to go into the right tire, it is the LEFT stabilizer that prevents it from doing so. IF it is adjusted tightly. And likewise when the implement wants to move to the left it is the RIGHT stabilizer that prevents it from doing so if adjusted tightly, (straightened out not jacknifed).

You are there and I am not, but this is what I think the entire problem is. I could be wrong, I have been before.

 

[RG1]

Yes. Exactly what I hope to do. I wonder if that big washer has a special name. . .

Thanks, Bob

It looks like you could remove the top link tower and remove metal where it impedes putting Cat 1 pins on the inside. You wouldn't have to remove a lot to allow them to fit flat/flush, and it wouldn't weaken the tower any.

Or....
Go to a JD dealer and tell them you need the draft arm mounting pins for a 647 or 655 tiller. They should be long enough for you to do what you want. They are the same thing as in the pic in the post of your I quoted here. You can see mine lying on top of my tiller. The one near the top link tower is for the top link, and is the same basic design, only in the correct diameter for the top link-

 

[YardBikeBob]

Went down to the dealer and longer pins are no problem. They were right there on the rack along with washers. CNH brought them in from India and I brought them home for $11. Using them with the BB brings the outside spread of the lower arms down to 25 inches. At the tires, I now have a 4 1/2" gap between the arms and the tires.

More importantly, now that the lower arms aren't splayed so much, the angle of attack on the stabilizer links are in the sweet spot. No more slop, no bending over the attachment ears, and only a degree or so of sway and a long way from the tires. Happy camper.

As it is a Kioti dealer, I went and looked under the tail of a DK40. Yes, the tires are smaller. This provides 40 inches of separation from the tire lugs. 8 more inches is a lot!

Now I wonder why my inner ear keeps shouting that my LS feels a little tippy?

Thanks to all the contributors talking my way out of this conundrum.

Bob

 

[RG1]

Glad it worked out to your satisfaction.