BX vs B series Belly mower???

[TMR]

Curious how ease of use (i.e. taking deck on and off), mowing quality and maneuverability when mowing compare between a BX Series and a B series tractor. After determining that I would likely spend quite a bit to get the "garden" tractor I might buy for mowing...I am back looking at a combo machine. I like the extra weight, ground clearance and loader lifting capacity of the B series but am concerned wether the B series can mow "nearly" as well as the BX series...which I understand is a very quality and pretty nimble mower??? Much of my current work load is mowing a couple acre rough field, my cabin lot and about a mile of well developed trails. I want "tractor" loader and ground engaging ability to begin to work in my 40 acre retirement obsession...trees and trails to take care of...and maybe other tasks.

Thanks...Tom R

 

[oldballs]

Having owned a BX2660 for three seasons and now a B2620 for three seasons, Id say that the BX with turf tires did a little nicer job with less tire marking or turf damage. However, that is something I can live with because the B2620 (R4 tires) has features that I mean more to me.....such as ground clearance which is not only important with ground engaging attachments but also I find the greater clearance helpful when doing maintenance or hooking/unhooking the MMM. The mowing quality and maneuverability seemed about the same to me, and...the Mid-range HST On the "B" model makes all the jobs go faster. It sounds like your place has some rough to deal with, so I'd recommend getting a "B" model.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[TMR]

Having owned a BX2660 for three seasons and now a B2620 for three seasons, Id say that the BX with turf tires did a little nicer job with less tire marking or turf damage. However, that is something I can live with because the B2620 (R4 tires) has features that I mean more to me.....such as ground clearance which is not only important with ground engaging attachments but also I find the greater clearance helpful when doing maintenance or hooking/unhooking the MMM. The mowing quality and maneuverability seemed about the same to me, and...the Mid-range HST On the "B" model makes all the jobs go faster. It sounds like your place has some rough to deal with, so I'd recommend getting a "B" model.
Cheers,
Mike

Thanks Mike...Is it pretty "easy" to take the deck on/off the B?...what about the BX? easier or harder?

I always seem to think "more is better"...am I correct in assuming the extra 3HP of the 26 helps in deep grass?? Thanks...Tom R

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Copy of PM answered.
I have written a couple of "articles" comparing the B vs BX and BPFick also has done one. Search these and read but bottom line is ground clearance. If your mowing fields and going to go in the woods then the B is preferred over the BX plus B currently has 3 speeds while BX has 2. The BX has the fragile fan and the B doesn't. Woods work of almost any kind, for me, would leave the BX out of the picture.Mowing quality: The BX might mow a bit better for the person with a LAWN vs someone like me with a YARD (some of it a farm field that I just started mowing). I now and for the past 5 years have used the Kubota Fs for mowing and nothing else compares to them especially on hillsides with the 4wd.
I The MMM deck will be easier to remove from a B than a BX since the B sits higher off the ground. Changed oil, oil filter and small HST filter and greased my B2620 FEL BH yesterday at first 50 hours and at 66, almost 67 was able to get under it without any jacks or raising off ground with FEL.
Every size bigger will have stronger FEL lift and maybe 3ph lift but any B will lift about anything it will pull or be able to use. I bought an L one time and it is a great farm tractor, heavy and stable on FLAT land. Scared me on my hillside and wouldn't be much for mowing except for Rotary or rear finish mower and would be great for those but heavy to use around a yard or confined space and to trailer to different location.
You need a B2320 or B2620 or B2920. Get the 50 series if you "need: the heated or ac cab.
Also posting this reply on your open post. John
PS Every day you wait is a day older your getting and a day less that YOU will have the machine assistance for your benefit. Maybe your replacement will be glad you waited. It's time to get off the pot and go get or call Barlows and order a NEW B equipped with what you want on it and start reaping the rewards for the years you've scrimped and worked!!!! :cool2:

 

[bp fick]

The two series are different and targeted to different users primary needs. Love them both, so no prejudice here.

When we were clearing a wood lot and trail working, plus some heavy, rough ground work? The B series fit the bill for over 3 years. When that work was done, went back to a BX as it the superior machine now for my everyday chores and wouldn't have anything else.

No, the B won't likely be the mower the BX is, but it doesn't sound like the ground is golf course quality anyhow. Plus, the deck will be easier to take on/off as you have more room to maneuver under there. Your projects include the woods and trails and the B's superior ground clearance is the likely the right machine for those jobs.

I second John's urge to hurry. Find a 20 series B will they're still available at a reduced price.

 

[TMR]

Thank You John for the great input...I will search for your and BPFrick's articles about the B v BX. When I sent you the PM I tried to explain to my wife your kubota history/purchasing habits...but I also told her that from reading your posts for quite a few years that I feel I "know" you somewhat. Little did I know that we are just about the same age...I turn 67 in October. Also, I told her I felt you were a "good" person and would likely be quite helpful to me as you have actually experienced the products I am looking at...some more than once

Well, turns out you and the others at TBN have passed along quite a bit of your wisdom. Yesterday I was speaking with an old friend that had purchased a BX TLB 6-8 years ago and lives in my a couple of miles for me on 15 acres. He was very helpful and positive about the BX. He did mention he broke a fan underneath. I told him that there are two aftermarket companies that make "guards for the fan and also told him he should be on TBN to learn what he doesn't know about his BX BTW...I did not tell him he might like the B series as he does use it for some pretty rough stuff in the woods.

Now I need to shift to details like 2320/2360 or 2390...all same frame with 1/4 ing valve. Is the 3 and then 6 HP increase valuable and worth paying for...assuming I don't buy and trade like you do and keep mine for many years???

OR...what about the new B2650/3350 with a little larger frame and position control....and likely some new and untested pollution control "irritants"?...and probably a pretty good increase in price vs the xx20 series. IF you were buying today (I guess that is not rhetorical with you Mr Thomas!)...which vxxxx would you buy???

Then I need to configure, add a list of options and attachments and begin to decide where to buy and for how much. BTW...if you haven't guessed...I am a CPA accountant by training...not a troubled business "turnaround guy"...although my wife would tell you that I am not doing much "consulting" at all these days. I guess pretty soon I will need to say...Semi-retired to be generous to myself. I guess it is time for an Excel spreadsheet

Again...John...Thanks you very much for your posts over the years and for your advice. You have been very helpful. Tom R in rural Two Harbors between Duluth and Two Harbors and 5 miles inland from glorious Lake Superior! TMR

 

[radioman]

40 acres? you need at least a B. The BX will do the job, but it take a bit longer. The B has higher ground speed and better midrange. If you plan on getting more then one tractor then you can plan on it that way. A bx for mowing and nimble things and B or L for larger operation land management. this would be your ideal setup.

 

[TMR]

Hi BP...I see you are Beaver Creek in Northern Michigan...we call our 80 acre home property Bear Creek...between Duluth and Two Harbors 5 miles inland from Lake Superior.

You and John are very helpful to an analytical accountant trying to spend some money but having a hard time committing I truly appreciate the time you guys and other TBN members spend "educating" a novice tractor guy like me. Now time to define what I need...maybe you can read my JT response and weigh in on choices...BTW...if more HP truly is better and will hop me "throw the grass/weeds farther...so to speak...then I may do that if it makes sense. If the extra HP just makes your wheels spin sooner...maybe I should skip it?? Also, any early word on the new 2650/3350 series...a bit larger farm than the xx20 series. Not sure when I move past practical on frame size? Pretty sure my use in the woods leads me to the B vs BX for both ground clearance and extra weight benefits...not sure I need to move to xx50 series with new pollution stuff. BTW...are the 2620 and 2920 being phased out due to 25HP pollution rules?? Thanks BP...btw...might you have a link to your (and John's) past "articles on B vs BX? Thanks...Tom R

P.S. I also likely may have obsoleted by HD 6'x10' single axle trailer...I only tow about 20 miles between my home and cabin property. Trailer has maybe 15" steel side walls and a 2"x6" wooden deck so it is quite sturdy/heavy duty. It does have a single axle...I think total Gross weight rating is something like 3200# and I was hoping that I could use current trailer w/o anything on the 3pt...and rest the loader over the front trailer wall??? It has a ramp gate so no extra room in the back. I think the BX would have fit on better?? Your thoughts on the 10'x6'?? Kind of eventually want a larger trailer w/ aluminum to make it lighter to move around. TMR

 

[oldballs]

TMR, I'd like to add that the BX was an amazing machine to me. I couldn't believe the size and amount of rock, gravel and dirt that it moved in my hands. And also, did I mention snow! That first year we had so much snow, whence the FEL and back blade were being used up and down my rural road to help the neighbors. And, BTW, I never broke a fan in the rough when cutting and removing many 40 year old pine trees. The pallet forks made my day there too. I did decide to move up to the B model and got a good trade in to do it as well. The BX had about 300 hours on it when traded, and now the B has 250 hrs, both without any factory problems. I do the maintenance.
Your trailer should be fine for now. I tow mine on a 12 foot commercial, tandem equipment trailer that fits in width and length (with the MMM or FEL). But a backhoe with FEL would be a problem dimension wise.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[aczlan]

40 acres? you need at least a B. The BX will do the job, but it take a bit longer. The B has higher ground speed and better midrange. If you plan on getting more then one tractor then you can plan on it that way. A bx for mowing and nimble things and B or L for larger operation land management. this would be your ideal setup.

Agreed. We have a B7500 and a BX2660. The B has a slightly longer wheelbase, a much better ride and a faster ground speed.

Aron Z

 

[bp fick]

Hi BP...I see you are Beaver Creek in Northern Michigan...we call our 80 acre home property Bear Creek...between Duluth and Two Harbors 5 miles inland from Lake Superior.

You and John are very helpful to an analytical accountant trying to spend some money but having a hard time committing I truly appreciate the time you guys and other TBN members spend "educating" a novice tractor guy like me. Now time to define what I need...maybe you can read my JT response and weigh in on choices...BTW...if more HP truly is better and will hop me "throw the grass/weeds farther...so to speak...then I may do that if it makes sense. If the extra HP just makes your wheels spin sooner...maybe I should skip it?? Also, any early word on the new 2650/3350 series...a bit larger farm than the xx20 series. Not sure when I move past practical on frame size? Pretty sure my use in the woods leads me to the B vs BX for both ground clearance and extra weight benefits...not sure I need to move to xx50 series with new pollution stuff. BTW...are the 2620 and 2920 being phased out due to 25HP pollution rules?? Thanks BP...btw...might you have a link to your (and John's) past "articles on B vs BX? Thanks...Tom R

P.S. I also likely may have obsoleted by HD 6'x10' single axle trailer...I only tow about 20 miles between my home and cabin property. Trailer has maybe 15" steel side walls and a 2"x6" wooden deck so it is quite sturdy/heavy duty. It does have a single axle...I think total Gross weight rating is something like 3200# and I was hoping that I could use current trailer w/o anything on the 3pt...and rest the loader over the front trailer wall??? It has a ramp gate so no extra room in the back. I think the BX would have fit on better?? Your thoughts on the 10'x6'?? Kind of eventually want a larger trailer w/ aluminum to make it lighter to move around. TMR

Get out there and see if you can find a deal. Personally, and this is personal preference, if the 29 was priced right, it would be OK, but normally, it is priced too high. The 26 is well balanced as is the 23. The price point on the 2320 is attractive and 23 hp is plenty good, BUT.. very few will be equipped with the larger loader and bucket that is standard on the 26-29 machines. They all bolt up the same, but most dealers just follow the SOP. If you want a larger bucket with a tad more lifting hydraulic pistons, the B2620 is generally seen as a great "sweet spot" combination.

Don't let it get you all hot and bothered though. See what is still left in stock and what the price is. Any Bxx20 series would suit you and let availability and price be your guide. These are Kubotas "standard economy" tractors. Stepping up to larger B's will get you a stouter machine and a heftier price tag. Before you know it, you'll be considering an L machine. LOL

 

[TMR]

Stepping up to larger B's will get you a stouter machine and a heftier price tag. Before you know it, you'll be considering an L machine. LOL

You must have spoken with my wife My favorite has always been the Grand L. Already looking at a much larger trailer. Tom R

 

[cschulz]

With the things you are planning for I would suggest the B. Ive had a BX for 3 years now and its a great machine as a small garden tractor goes. Its a good mower and material handler. But thats it it doesnt do much beyond this and when its pushed to work hard I feel as if Im going to wear this thing out quick. In other words I regret not getting the B. Mowing would of been the same as they use the same 60" deck and I still end up using a small push mower for around the house detail cuts.

Chris

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Get out there and see if you can find a deal. Personally, and this is personal preference, if the 29 was priced right, it would be OK, but normally, it is priced too high. The 26 is well balanced as is the 23. The price point on the 2320 is attractive and 23 hp is plenty good, BUT.. very few will be equipped with the larger loader and bucket that is standard on the 26-29 machines. They all bolt up the same, but most dealers just follow the SOP. If you want a larger bucket with a tad more lifting hydraulic pistons, the B2620 is generally seen as a great "sweet spot" combination.

Don't let it get you all hot and bothered though. See what is still left in stock and what the price is. Any Bxx20 series would suit you and let availability and price be your guide. These are Kubotas "standard economy" tractors. Stepping up to larger B's will get you a stouter machine and a heftier price tag. Before you know it, you'll be considering an L machine. LOL

You must have spoken with my wife My favorite has always been the Grand L. Already looking at a much larger trailer. Tom R

Agree with BP to try and find any of the B2(3/6/9)20 machine that are available. I had a B7800 and B3200 for the next step up and they are also good sized and capable machines but I also had a Grand L3240 and it was Grand and scary on my hillsides. When it leans or tilts you clench or I did.
I wouldn't go over 200 yards with a B or maybe even a BX on a small single axle trailer but you may be more daring than me. My first job with Ky State Gvmnt was as an Auditor so I to have to make numbers match and the numbers of the weight of a B or BX with FEL on a 10' single axle trailer don't add up with enough safety margin for me. I forgot at one time to add the weight of the trailer to the total and was glad things went well but never did it again. I support 100% trailers with 2 wheels on each side because with only one tire and if it blows then one can be in deep dookie pretty quick. I like that extra safety margin with the extra tires which I think is that old Auditor blood in me.
Don't forget that one can buy a tractor today and use it for doing lots of work and then down the road one can sell/sale that tractor and buy a different one that matches their current needs (as BP and I have done) just like with cars and trucks.
I did an "article" some years ago about your first tractor just being your trial tractor to determine the tractor you really need but that to can be an elusive concept because life circumstances are/can be constantly changing thus I've bought 17 different Kubotas because of those constant changes in needs/circumstances. Lighten up and go spend some of that money or the commitment to spend it on a monthly basis spread out over 60 months instead of just moving it around on a computer screen/ledger.
My first job as an Auditor....I'd go to work every day and the old auditor/accountant that had been there 35 years would come in and unlock and open his center desk drawer and stare down at it for 10 minutes every day. I started noticing him doing this. One day on break I asked some of the other auditors/accountants what he was looking at. They all said they didn't know but that he had been doing it as long as all of them had been there and some of them had been there for over 30 years. Well, the old guy finally retired and the first day after he was gone we all ran over to his desk, one of us got his keys, unlocked that center drawer and opened it...........:shocked::shocked::shocked: there in the center of the drawer was taped a yellowed sheet of paper with, in bold black marker 6 words......debits on the left.....credits on the right. For those of you that are going.....what It's an old, old accountant joke.:laughing::laughing:

 

[TMR]

Hi John...I can relate...CPA/CFO and last 1/2 of career CEO. But ALWAYS the analytical pragmatist .

Little update. I went to our cabin yesterday and mowed about 1/3 of my trails. Maybe 3/8 miles. My trails on this 40 acre piece are quite developed as the property was logged about 30+ years ago. The 40 acres interior to mine were are owned by the county and they also logged their 40 at the same time with the original owner. They cut a main logging road right down the middle and put a turnaround just inside the county 40. This trail is quite wide and very solid hard packed base with some loose sand...not deep however.

The ground in this part of my 40 acres has lots of small rock and some gravel base. The prior owner considered setting up a gravel pit and selling road gravel. So when I mow I have a combination of some nice wide grass based trails and some gravely, hard packed trails. My trails cross and criss-cross the 40 so it is all nicely accessible to my Polaris Ranger for fun rides/tours and morning on my trees.

Yesterday I reminded myself of the HARSH use I make of my mower deck...currently my infamous 10 year old 42"/24HP Sears with wheel weights and chains Most summers seasons I end up with at least one deck breakdown that I need to repair. Blades/spindles or belts. Yesterday was my "breakdown" day . After mowing about 3/8ths miles I started getting a blade slapping noise from the deck. Upon first exam in the field (Hot.humid,buggy day) I found one blade had broken off maybe1"+ of the end of one blade but that was not the one making the noise. The other blade was hitting the deck a small but significant amount. It appears I may have bent the decK at a spindle mounting point. I put back on trailer and took it home with me. Repair will/would be maybe a new deck...$300-$400 for cheaper Sears 42"...but first I will inspect more closely to insure I have damages the deck.

Long story short...not sure I want an expensive deck to treat this way and pretty sure i am going to continue to mow like ti is a demolition derby. I LOVE the look of my 40 acres and trails when they look like a country estate...which they do when I am down. BTW...this is my 4th year of owning and mowing this 40 acres. We also have 40 acres at our home 30 miles away with another 3/4 to 1 miles of trails...not as much deck destructive sand/rock. As a side note...maybe my deck is co clean underneath from the sand blasting it gets on part of my trail...also tough going for the driver as sand files everywhere for a few hundred feet of the trail

I think the best mowing choice may be a 10 year duty/disposable $1,500 Sears or Husqvarna MTD mid 20's HP narrow (42"-48"...likely 42" so it only has two blades) mower with added wheel weights and chains as I have now...and had for the prior 10 years (different but similar mower). I may try to fix my current one but the deck linkage has been damaged and re-bent/repaired enough times I am not sure it is worth fixing at this point.

Assuming I don't change directions again...this makes the "tractor" purchase "cleaner"...w/o the irritation of a mmm to deal with. Main change in plans is realizing that it probably does not make sense to buy a $5K+++ premium GT mower such as JD X5xx series or other and then run it through my harsh mowing routine...it would hurt too much vs a 10 year cycle $1,500 Sears type mower...which I also already have a lot of experience maintaining/repairing. Still think the B series is all the larger I want to go. Yesterday my son and I discussed out next trail addition and today we may begin marking the trail path and maybe cutting (chain saw) and throwing some of the small (3-4") 30 year old "slash" left over from the last logging. I am SURE we would have much use for a B series IF we had one. Trail will go about 1/4 mile through mostly brush and sapling with the old slash mixed in. Once slash is clear my DR Brush mover should be able to cut much of the trail with some chain saw and brush saw (saw blade on a "stick") assistance. Many other project after that.

I spoke with Kubota dealership and he agreed that my 3200 single axle trailer, while very sturdy 2"X6" decking and steel side wall...is both a bit short at 10' and likely no GVWR cushion at all. I called my trailer guy who was out...but I may look at a tilt bed, aluminum 18-20', double axle with GVWR close to 10K. I move my equipment between home and cabin (where the extra 40 acres is) many times a summer and as long as I am buying a new trailer I would like plenty of room for an extra attachment or my riding lawn mower or my DR. Will probably have to deal with trailer brakes in some manner with my truck.

Well...done mowing this weekend...will plan and mark trails, ride my Polaris Ranger, watch the grand kids and their two friends swim and "tube" behind our 1960 runabout and look at my broken down lawnmower next week...hope the humidity and heat drop. Was 80+ and humid and the bugs a bad this summer with all the rain we have had. Also need to do dome shopping.

Thanks again for all the help...Tom R

Agree with BP to try and find any of the B2(3/6/9)20 machine that are available. I had a B7800 and B3200 for the next step up and they are also good sized and capable machines but I also had a Grand L3240 and it was Grand and scary on my hillsides. When it leans or tilts you clench or I did.
I wouldn't go over 200 yards with a B or maybe even a BX on a small single axle trailer but you may be more daring than me. My first job with Ky State Gvmnt was as an Auditor so I to have to make numbers match and the numbers of the weight of a B or BX with FEL on a 10' single axle trailer don't add up with enough safety margin for me. I forgot at one time to add the weight of the trailer to the total and was glad things went well but never did it again. I support 100% trailers with 2 wheels on each side because with only one tire and if it blows then one can be in deep dookie pretty quick. I like that extra safety margin with the extra tires which I think is that old Auditor blood in me.
Don't forget that one can buy a tractor today and use it for doing lots of work and then down the road one can sell/sale that tractor and buy a different one that matches their current needs (as BP and I have done) just like with cars and trucks.
I did an "article" some years ago about your first tractor just being your trial tractor to determine the tractor you really need but that to can be an elusive concept because life circumstances are/can be constantly changing thus I've bought 17 different Kubotas because of those constant changes in needs/circumstances. Lighten up and go spend some of that money or the commitment to spend it on a monthly basis spread out over 60 months instead of just moving it around on a computer screen/ledger.
My first job as an Auditor....I'd go to work every day and the old auditor/accountant that had been there 35 years would come in and unlock and open his center desk drawer and stare down at it for 10 minutes every day. I started noticing him doing this. One day on break I asked some of the other auditors/accountants what he was looking at. They all said they didn't know but that he had been doing it as long as all of them had been there and some of them had been there for over 30 years. Well, the old guy finally retired and the first day after he was gone we all ran over to his desk, one of us got his keys, unlocked that center drawer and opened it...........:shocked::shocked::shocked: there in the center of the drawer was taped a yellowed sheet of paper with, in bold black marker 6 words......debits on the left.....credits on the right. I know just what you are talking about For those of you that are going.....what It's an old, old accountant joke.:laughing::laughing:

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have a few acres of steep hillside behind my brothers house which is beside my house. I bought a RTV1140 (2 rows of seats) to entertain my Grandkids before they get to old to spend time with Papaw. I had a man with a track loader cut trails back and forth from front to back across the hillside for our RTVing. I mow the trails with my 4wd F3080 6' deck. There is a mountain behind me with a logging trail that goes around it, maybe a couple of miles. The trail had grown up. I bought a 4' rotary mower to use on my previous B2320 and mowed the trail then sold the mower and the B2320. I now mow the trail with my F3080. Did bend a blade last year when the deck bounced down on a rock but under $30 replaced the blade and on I go. This past winter a couple of trees fell down and I don't know if they made a sound or not but they did block the trail which stopped my F. Took my B2620 FEL BH up the trail Thursday and the trail is now back open all the way around. I keep clippers with me and my grands and I clip the overhanging limbs on our sides when they start intruding into our cockpit. Lots of the trails have tree canopy over it.
I bought the RTV1140 thinking it would just be for fun with the Grands but use it often and another item that I should have bought sooner and won't go without one again. Grands now twin 9 years old with a 3 year old brother. My 9 year old Grandson has to drive me around when he's here and he's been driving it since I bought it.
Points to ponder. A rear finish rear discharge (to shoot cut items and sand and gravel) Landpride mower built like a tank of 4', 5' or 6' (had one for a couple of years) will cost near what a box mower will cost. Easy on and off and service on a tractor, no lifting with quick hitch. Deck is near indestructible and will last past your mature lifetime. Add a B with FEL and use a cheap lawn mower around trees and the house and your done. I really preferred the REAR DISCHARGE rear finish mower over any mid mount mowers that I was taking off and putting back on. I also liked their quality of cut. They can be lifted for rougher ground if you don't like cutting rocks (I have several limestone rocks that wait for my mowers just above the ground enough to be cut from time to time).

 

[GPintheMitten]

B2620 would be great for your described use. But if you can't find one get either of the other two models.

You should be able to smooth your trails by back blading with the loader. You may want to look into ratchet rake attachment for your loader. A landscape rake would probably help you get the rocks off the mowed trails. Then you can use the mmm.

I like the advice that you have been given to get out there and get your B tractor that you need and deserve.

Don't let analysis paralysis set in.

 

[TMR]

John...I agree - the purchase of my Polaris Ranger 800 XP four years ago was one of the best buys I have made. I use it heavily as a work/transport vehicle when traveling the 1/2 mile from our cabin to our 40 acres and have tools in the back end. Also use it for many tasks around the cabin...like yesterday putting the boat in the lake...much easier with the Ranger than when I had to back my truck down a steep hill through close trees. Also, 5 grandkids...age 11 to 19 are in it often when I go anywhere. Even the ladies drive it a couple of miles to the rural farmer's market. They are legal on highways in our county...other than major highways such as fed roads. You are supposed to stay as far right using the shoulder as appropriate and and safe. Only the side-by-sides...not the regular ATVs.

I looked up the Landpride finish mower and I think you might be on to something. Would take a bit of training to learn to only mow forward but I don't think that would be too difficult. Might have to slightly modify my trails and create moderate turnarounds. Can the rear discharge get rid of tall weeds/grass with a B power source? Most of my rocks are either small loose...or medium and in the ground. With the Sear's I have gotten used to slightly pulling up the deck as I go through a couple of areas that have most of the rock...not very significant part of the trails. Others may just get skimmed occasionally by the blades but nothing serious. Maybe I could skirt the areas with rocks and either weed sap or use the walk behind mower. I will take a look at the dealer. Key question is how they handle taller grass and weeds such as my field which I mow once a year. Probably would mow it 2-3 times if I had the right tool.

Thanks JT Tom R

I have a few acres of steep hillside behind my brothers house which is beside my house. I bought a RTV1140 (2 rows of seats) to entertain my Grandkids before they get to old to spend time with Papaw. I had a man with a track loader cut trails back and forth from front to back across the hillside for our RTVing. I mow the trails with my 4wd F3080 6' deck. There is a mountain behind me with a logging trail that goes around it, maybe a couple of miles. The trail had grown up. I bought a 4' rotary mower to use on my previous B2320 and mowed the trail then sold the mower and the B2320. I now mow the trail with my F3080. Did bend a blade last year when the deck bounced down on a rock but under $30 replaced the blade and on I go. This past winter a couple of trees fell down and I don't know if they made a sound or not but they did block the trail which stopped my F. Took my B2620 FEL BH up the trail Thursday and the trail is now back open all the way around. I keep clippers with me and my grands and I clip the overhanging limbs on our sides when they start intruding into our cockpit. Lots of the trails have tree canopy over it.
I bought the RTV1140 thinking it would just be for fun with the Grands but use it often and another item that I should have bought sooner and won't go without one again. Grands now twin 9 years old with a 3 year old brother. My 9 year old Grandson has to drive me around when he's here and he's been driving it since I bought it.
Points to ponder. A rear finish rear discharge (to shoot cut items and sand and gravel) Landpride mower built like a tank of 4', 5' or 6' (had one for a couple of years) will cost near what a box mower will cost. Easy on and off and service on a tractor, no lifting with quick hitch. Deck is near indestructible and will last past your mature lifetime. Add a B with FEL and use a cheap lawn mower around trees and the house and your done. I really preferred the REAR DISCHARGE rear finish mower over any mid mount mowers that I was taking off and putting back on. I also liked their quality of cut. They can be lifted for rougher ground if you don't like cutting rocks (I have several limestone rocks that wait for my mowers just above the ground enough to be cut from time to time).

 

[dodge man]

I will add a couple of comments. I've owned a BX about 8 years. The truth is it doesn't make a great mower, its good but not great. Its like a lot of mower or tractors, the front wheels mash the grass down and then it doesn't get mowed well. Its just worse on a true tractor like a BX or a B since its diesel, 4 wheel drive, water cooled etc. that puts even more weight out front than a cheaper dedicated lawn mower. That is the reason zero turns cut better, all the weight is out back with the deck hanging out front cutting the grass first.

For cutting your trails is sounds like you need a brush hog not a mid mount mower. I picked up a pretty rough used one for a $150. They will take a lot more abuse than a mid mount mower.

I'd say you are going to want a better trailer. Your current trailer MIGHT be good enough for just the bare tractor, but when you add a end loader and something out back then start to get long, even a BX gets about 14 feet long with end loader and brush hog.

To me it sounds like you need a B. Don't under estimate how much you will use the end loader. I bought an end loader thinking I wouldn't use it that much but probably 40% of my BX use the end loader.

 

[TMR]

Thanks Dave...pretty much decided that a CUT rather than a sub-cut is appropriate for my needs. Also, I think John Thomas may have the best compromise in a Landpride rear discharge finish mower....see post above. I really do no cut any "lawn"...just field/cabin yard/and pretty well developed trails.

The primary need for CUT is ground clearance. I will likely be off trail (so to speak) quite often on my land and both th clearance and the items underneath the tractor point to the B vs the BX...I have lots of nasty sticks, low cut stumps and other items waiting to "poke" at the underside. Thanks Dave...Tom R

I will add a couple of comments. I've owned a BX about 8 years. The truth is it doesn't make a great mower, its good but not great. Its like a lot of mower or tractors, the front wheels mash the grass down and then it doesn't get mowed well. Its just worse on a true tractor like a BX or a B since its diesel, 4 wheel drive, water cooled etc. that puts even more weight out front than a cheaper dedicated lawn mower. That is the reason zero turns cut better, all the weight is out back with the deck hanging out front cutting the grass first.

For cutting your trails is sounds like you need a brush hog not a mid mount mower. I picked up a pretty rough used one for a $150. They will take a lot more abuse than a mid mount mower.

I'd say you are going to want a better trailer. Your current trailer MIGHT be good enough for just the bare tractor, but when you add a end loader and something out back then start to get long, even a BX gets about 14 feet long with end loader and brush hog.

To me it sounds like you need a B. Don't under estimate how much you will use the end loader. I bought an end loader thinking I wouldn't use it that much but probably 40% of my BX use the end loader.