Post frame vs foundation

[sld]

To me, any time you can get the wood structure further away from the ground it's a good thing.

I like the idea of stud wall on poured concrete (my detached garage is this way) or cinder blocks.

You will probably never have to worry about rot and decay. Just figure out a good way to attach the stud wall to the cinder blocks. Maybe fill every 3rd or 4th with concrete, rebar and j-hooks?

 

[kevin37b]

Dig a footing , drill the holes , set the poles . Brace it and put the roof on . pour the floor. Lay the blocks between poles .Just a thought .

 

[LD1]

Dig a footing , drill the holes , set the poles . Brace it and put the roof on . pour the floor. Lay the blocks between poles .Just a thought .

cost of block and footing is expensive. So is PT posts. So why do both? ANd still end up with lumber in the ground?

Unless I am not understanding what you are saying?

 

[LD1]

Something else I was considering was split-face block for the 2-3 rows above ground. But wonder why in the heck they cost 3x's more? Do they really cost more to make, or is it a looks/demand thing?

 

[mjcountrybumpkin]

I am planning on building my barn with block foundation extending 2-3 feet above grade. I have found like you the difference must be in labor. My numbers come out very similar for post steel vs. block and stud wall construction.
My walls will more than likely be 8" block with a bond beam around the top with entire wall poured full of grout.
I plan on building two stories on about half of the barn for storage purposes, the reason for bond beam and grouted wall.
Not to mention i just like the way it looks to have a exposed block foundation on a barn.
Good luck however you decide.

 

[LD1]

I too really like the way a block foundation looks. Both inside and out

 

[farmer2009]

LD I just skimmed through the thread. Have you given any thought to a chain wall. It's a post building with poured concrete around bottom. The concrete can come up as high on the post as needed to raise your OSB off the floor and minimize fire hazards. The key is the concrete is wider than the post. My insurance agent was explaining it to me. He claims it's the best way to build larger buildings. He said it uses 4x6 post for a 6 inch wall. But the concrete is poured like 9 or 10 inches wide. Might be worth some research. Otherwise it's just like building a pole barn.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

just read through your post, went through similar issue 12 years ago, went with the slab, block then stud wall and truss route. Looking back on it, should have gone higher with the block. Don't regret stud framing, it allowed me to side it like the house. What I would think about is steal trusses, you would have to pour piers for them, then you run wood perlin in between the steel truss. Gives you the over head height inside. Can still sheet the roof for shingles, then just stud in between the steel trusses for your walls. Guy down the street did it that way. Its nice wish i would have thought of it sooner. Building pole building now, they go up fast gravel floor.

 

[LD1]

Another design question.

Since I am doing 4' OC trusses for a 72' building, that requires 19 trusses.

BUT, since the endwall trusses are sitting on top of an end wall, do they really need to be trusses?

So here is my thought. Instead of 12' 2x6's for the end wall with a truss on top, why not use full length 2x6'x all the way to the top. The peak will be 18'8" from the foundation wall. Which will require a 20' board cut to length. Then 8" shorter for every 2' out down to 12' for the side walls.

Doing this will save 2 trusses, but at the added expense of longer lumber. End result is saving $50 for each gable. But it isnt really about the savings. My though is having the full length wall will be more like having full length posts (if going post style) to help stiffen up the roof structure and just make a stronger building in general. Besides, Endwall trusses are basically just that. Not really designed to carry a load the way they are designed, since all the roof load gets transferred to the wall.

Thoughts?

 

[mikehaugen]

Doesn't the top plate help hold the other 2 walls together? They should be interlocked. I could be wrong, but I think the trusses are designed for a verticle load and not so much for a "stretching" load. You may not need a truss, but should probably do a top plate and jack studs or some other means of tension between the walls.

Sorry if my terminology is not correct.