Post frame vs foundation

[s219]

Are screws into OSB adequate for holding siding? I'm pretty sure it's not for roofing, but maybe OK for siding. I like the idea of 2x4's mainly because you can use a good treated grade board, but maybe that doesn't matter much if your slab is well above grade.

I think so -- far less grippy fasteners are used to attach other siding products to OSB, so siding/roofing screws would be a big improvement in my eyes.

 

[jejeosborne]

Have you considered just building a standard post frame with the addition of metal on the inside? You could buy a lower grade metal for the interior and it would be both waterproof, and fire resistant not to mention the added sheer strength. You'd have a nice 8.5 inch cavity to fill with cellulose insulation too.

 

[mikehaugen]

I have gone over in my head many times the way that I would like to build a shop if I ever get the funds, and it is very similar to what you are proposing. I like the idea of the block wall around the bottom perimeter of the wall. The only downside I can think of with the raised block on the outside will be getting the walls onto them. Instead of just standing them up, you have to stand them up and lift them, which will require a crane or very creative use of your tractor. Also, you won't be able to build them on the concrete floor, unless you somehow don't build the whole wall at once.

Aside from maintenance, is there a reason not to use something like t1-11 instead of sheathing and steel?

Another consideration I had (since you are already starting with block) would be just to build the entire wall out of block. I haven't put a lot of thought into that idea so I don't know what the disadvantages would be or the cost difference would be.

 

[mikehaugen]

Have you considered just building a standard post frame with the addition of metal on the inside? You could buy a lower grade metal for the interior and it would be both waterproof, and fire resistant not to mention the added sheer strength. You'd have a nice 8.5 inch cavity to fill with cellulose insulation too.

I have metal siding on the inside of my garage, it was there when I bought the house. I really don't like it. It makes it more difficult to hang things on the wall. If you don't run the conduit/plumbing before hand, it makes doing that along the wall more difficult and crappy looking. It does have some advantages I suppose, but I don't think I would do it again. I think I would do osb for the first 8 ft, and depending on cost difference, maybe do drywall the rest of the way. I would also probably consider metal after 8 feet.

 

[Egon]

Screws come in different ratings. Not all are certified for streets conditions in building construction.

 

[jejeosborne]

I have metal siding on the inside of my garage, it was there when I bought the house. I really don't like it. It makes it more difficult to hang things on the wall. If you don't run the conduit/plumbing before hand, it makes doing that along the wall more difficult and crappy looking. It does have some advantages I suppose, but I don't think I would do it again. I think I would do osb for the first 8 ft, and depending on cost difference, maybe do drywall the rest of the way. I would also probably consider metal after 8 feet.

The OP wants something fire resistant and waterproof. I would think steel would be easier than concrete block to hang things from and to run electric behind. Heck, if you need to run electric or plumbing after the fact, just remove the steel with a few screws and put it back up when finished. Osb won't be waterproof or fire resistant which is what he is looking for. The steel also comes prepainted.

 

[LD1]

Have you considered just building a standard post frame with the addition of metal on the inside? You could buy a lower grade metal for the interior and it would be both waterproof, and fire resistant not to mention the added sheer strength. You'd have a nice 8.5 inch cavity to fill with cellulose insulation too.

I dont like metal inside other than ceiling and around the base. Like mike said, too hard to hang stuff, run utilities, add shelving etc.

My two current options are 1. Post frame conventional exterior, and 1 row of liner panel around the bottom of the inside and then OSB up from there. OR 2. Stick built with block foundation.Which I hadn't considered til just the other day when I posted this thread. I just (wrongfully so) assumed it would cost alot more, as that is what everyone says. Given that the cost is only a few hundred more on a ~$25k building, and no wood in the ground, is making me lean that way heavily.

I have gone over in my head many times the way that I would like to build a shop if I ever get the funds, and it is very similar to what you are proposing. I like the idea of the block wall around the bottom perimeter of the wall. The only downside I can think of with the raised block on the outside will be getting the walls onto them. Instead of just standing them up, you have to stand them up and lift them, which will require a crane or very creative use of your tractor. Also, you won't be able to build them on the concrete floor, unless you somehow don't build the whole wall at once.

Aside from maintenance, is there a reason not to use something like t1-11 instead of sheathing and steel?

Another consideration I had (since you are already starting with block) would be just to build the entire wall out of block. I haven't put a lot of thought into that idea so I don't know what the disadvantages would be or the cost difference would be.

I would do the walls in sections so they are manageable. And if needed, I can set with the assistance of the backhoe. Should be no problem. I dont like T1-11 for the maintenance issue. And the fact that it cost as much or more than steel.

As to not going block all the way, several reasons. 1. Harder to insulate. 2. Harder to run utilities 3. Just dont look as good IMO unless maintained and painted frequently. To get to the height I need, It would require another 18 courses of block. For a total of 3600+/- block. Not sure about going 24 row of 8" block. May require 12" block, and larger footer. Plus more expensive lintels, and in the end, would still have to do some type of stick frame to create a cavity for insulation.

 

[QRTRHRS]

The pole barn builder I used to haul for occasionally built one on a foundation. The "L" shaped brackets they used were sourced from some supplier and were made with welded plates then galvanized. I could not tell you the dimensions or what the post centers were. Been too long. They are a wholesale retail operation so I suppose you could contact them. PM me if you want contact info.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

how about wet set sturdiwall brackets, made to install posts on top of concrete?
https://www.permacolumn.com/what-are-sturdi-wall-brackets

 

[LD1]

All those heavy post brackets would make a post wall on top of a block wall just cost too much. I think I am just gonna stick with the conventional stud wall on top of foundation block. 5/8" j bolts in filled core. Sheathing will tie the top of the wall and will to the studs, and hurricane ties for the trusses. Probably use Simpson structural screws also instead of nails for holding power.