Replacement windows from big box store or lumber yard

[Country Geek]

As a home remodeler, I replace windows fairly often for clients. You can go with wood, vinyl or metal. I like metal the best because of how smooth it is. Vinyl has an edge over metal for efficiency, but it's really too small to make a difference in my opinion, and the ease of how metal opens over vinyl is huge. Wood windows are always going to require maintenance, and even the most expensive ones rot and lose their paint at different rates depending on their exposure.

What about metal-clad wood? My experience with them has been good but overall what do you think of them?

I like them because they are wood on the inside, which is the appearance I want, but the metal seems to protect the exterior really well. I had them put in to replace wood windows on a large south-facing wall, the harsh sun and weather had made those window start to bubble and rot after only a few years.

 

[Walkin Horse]

This was a local news topic about a year ago.

Glare from energy-efficient windows can melt siding, vehicles :: WRAL.com

Maybe even set my brush pile on fire without a permit.

 

[JDgreen227]

What about metal-clad wood? My experience with them has been good but overall what do you think of them?

I like them because they are wood on the inside, which is the appearance I want, but the metal seems to protect the exterior really well. I had them put in to replace wood windows on a large south-facing wall, the harsh sun and weather had made those window start to bubble and rot after only a few years.[/QUOTE

As I noted in an earlier post, my aluminum cladded Anderson 400 series have a serious issue with condensation on the wood inner frames and trim...it is really severe and bad enough to mildew and bubble off the varnish on the wood.

 

[Country Geek]

As I noted in an earlier post, my aluminum cladded Anderson 400 series have a serious issue with condensation on the wood inner frames and trim...it is really severe and bad enough to mildew and bubble off the varnish on the wood.

Haven't seen that with my (Pella) metal-clad windows, which are now well over 10 years old. But I'll be on the lookout for it now!

 

[GBOUTDOORS]

So much depends on how long you intend to live in the house...as a former carpenter by trade I installed thousands of windows. The original part of my personal home has Anderson basic quality double hung wood windows installed in in 1976...the sills are badly rotted and all 14 need replacing. My addition was built in 2002-2003 and all the Anderson 400 series casements (14 each) are like new...the real issue with wood windows and doors is that no matter how good the quality may be when new, condensation is a HUGE factor on how long they actually last. My 400 series windows and slider doors have an issue with condensation because winters here can be bitterly cold, and the inner window frames are aluminum which creates condensation. PM me if you want details.

Condensation on the inside of a window only shows that it is doing its job keeping the cold out. The reason for the condensation is way to much moisture in the home for some reason . Do a search online about moisture control and you will see what I mean .

As for Andersen windows they do not have a metal frame on any of their units. They are wood, vinyl clad or their new composite material.

 

[kco]

Can you just replace the glass?

All the seals of our then 32-year old home were leaking when we moved in 11 years ago. They had moisture and dirt between the panes but the wood frames we good. The local window store came out and measured all the windows, ordered sealed glass panes and installed them for a very reasonable price. They removed the outside 3/4" wood strips to take the windows out and cut new strips. As EddieWalker recommends, they put double-sided tape on the new glass panes. They peeled back just enough of the vinyl tape covering on the inside face of the tape strip so it was accessible once they put the window in the house frame. They removed the tape by carefully pulling it out between the inner house wood surface and the glass. Here are some photos:





EddieWalker, I'm curious about your statement regarding reflective glass. Our new windows have some kind of one-way reflective glass on one of the double panes. It is not a coating, and is not noticeable except it is very slightly darker than ordinary glass. I specified we wanted the windows designed to KEEP HEAT OUT in the summer. We find them very effective. They just replaced the living room windows the first day. It was sunny and warm, and we immediately noticed a big reduction in heat.

In the summer we often enjoy cool early mornings on the deck on the east side of the house. When the sun reflects off second storey windows it can generate enough heat that one needs to move, even though 15 to 20 feet from that window. The coating seems very effective and did not add a lot to the glass cost.

 

[caver]

I did replacement windows for a living for many years. Tell me what you have (double hung, slider, etc) (wood, metal) (pics would help) and I'll give you some tips on replacements and buying them.

Wood horizontal sliders about 50x50 give or take a few inches.

 

[caver]

I wouldn't be spending a pile on windows for an old house.

They are all difficult to open and one on the front has a rotten frame in one area on the bottom.
Some of them I need to replace but may not do all of them. The screens are shot too.

 

[KennyG]

So much depends on how long you intend to live in the house...as a former carpenter by trade I installed thousands of windows. The original part of my personal home has Anderson basic quality double hung wood windows installed in in 1976...the sills are badly rotted and all 14 need replacing. My addition was built in 2002-2003 and all the Anderson 400 series casements (14 each) are like new...the real issue with wood windows and doors is that no matter how good the quality may be when new, condensation is a HUGE factor on how long they actually last. My 400 series windows and slider doors have an issue with condensation because winters here can be bitterly cold, and the inner window frames are aluminum which creates condensation. PM me if you want details.

My house was also built in the mid-70's. It originally had Andersen casements, some of which were deteriorating. My contractor said the problem was poor original installation but they still lasted 35 years. I installed new Andersen 400 casements. About 20 windows (1 to 4 units wide) and two sliding doors - close to $20K (gulp) - and I'm very happy with them. I'm not seeing any condensation issues but I have whole house ventilation and only have a limited amount of humidification.

 

[JamesHW]

I was planning on replacing the 1920's double hung windows on my bungalow with a Pella product that you install in the original opening that does not require taking the frame out, but I had a change of heart.

1) The current windows are solid and still functional and other than sash weights that need rehanging, paint and a few broken panes they are still almost as good as the day they were installed.

2) What really needs to be replaced are the old aluminum 1950's era storm windows as they are at the end of their functional life.

3) It will be a major boost in my equity when I sell to not have spent a lot of money (storm window replacement put aside).

4) If I replace the windows and just remove the 1950's storms, I will probably just break even on energy savings

Obviously with sash weight cavities are leaky energy wise, but with the storms closed tight it isn't that bad. I am a fresh air fiend and will open windows during the day when the temps get above 50-60. If I ever get around to building that very tight & energy efficient barn home, a method of introducing fresh air will be paramount in my plans. So a somewhat leaky house for me is an ok compromise.

Double hung windows are a pain to clean and the new windows that tilt in are a real attraction, but if the on an older house if original windows are of good quality and decent condition they should be considered to be kept. The original way double hung windows were used of course was that upper and lower sections would be opened to allow heat to escape the house in the pre AC days (often awnings were part of the equation). If the existing windows are really shot then replacing is in the cards, but whether to go expensive or not on a planned sale needs more info to offer advice. Getting a good, experienced realtor or 3 in to look at the house and recommend what will bring the best ROI before spending a lot of money might not be a bad idea. Of course this is a Rural property so your mileage may vary.

In my case I am going to just replace the storm windows with a better quality modern storm that looks good on an older house and does not stand out like the 1950 aluminum ones. Fortunately I have had a lot of practice over the years re-glazing windows, so finishing up on getting the old windows up to snuff is a good DIY/equity builder exercise.