20 x 18 box frame disk harrow

[Sysop]

Went past a dealer's lot today and stopped to see what they might have some deals on and think I lucked out. He said he had an unused, old/starting to rust 20x18 disk harrow on a HD box type frame. Basically the same type of structure made by KingKutter and sold for $1700 on NorthernTool except it has an easier means of adjusting the angle of the disks.

He told me it was 5 years old, but got put on the back of the lot and had grass grow up through it a few (probably 3) years back and ended up forgot about... It has a bit of surface rust here and there, as well as on the disks. The paint is faded. All the welds look good and none of the rust is what I'd consider severe. Anyone have any qualms about paying $700 for a new unit left in the weather in tall grass for a few years?

 

[snowbelt geauga]

Heck no! That seems like a great price to me. How wide is it?

 

[Sysop]

6.5', same as the KK above. I'll hope to have pics shortly.

 

[downslope]

Price sounds OK, you can always touch up the paint. Be sure it has sealed bearings like the King Kutter, not white metal bearings that you have to grease twice a day, unless you plan to use it very little. You want the 7.5" spacing for finish work. If it adjusts with a screw mechanism be sure it's not froze up with rust. Weight will tell a lot about quality and strength. The King Kutter in your link says 820 lbs. with 20" blades, so the one you're looking at with 18" blades should be only a little less than that assuming it has same 1" axle size.

Good luck if you buy it, sounds like a very good price.

 

[Sysop]

Good catch!,, I didn't pay close enough attention on that KK and was mainly looking at the design of the structure rather than the disc size. Here is the KK with 20 18" discs.. It is listed as 790lbs.

Adjustment is similar to the KK except instead of having bolts in the parts that slide along the center beam there is an extra channel above the main beam with a bar connected to each of the adjustment frames and a single pin holding both. Instead of pulling two bolts to adjust, you just pull one pin. From there the adjustments are the same.

It is sealed bearings, 1" axle, and 7.5" spacing also.

 

[Sysop]

Now with pics to examine and stuff looked up, it is a 400 series Mahindra 20x18" disc. Not quite as heavy duty as the KK as the KK is 3x3 tube and the Mahindra is 2.5x3 and weighs 715lbs. Although not only do I like the adjustment better, the bracing around the lower pins on the KK are just gusseted angle where on the Mahindra it is more of the 2.5x3 box tube as gusseting...

I think $700 is a steal and I'm jumping on it come morning... Anyone disagree?

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I think $700 is a good deal on that. I'd consider that a medium or medium/light duty harrow - better than the angle iron frames but not as heavy as the heavier duty box frames on some of them. But still, at $700 it's a no brainer. You could use it a while and sell it and probably make a little profit or at least get all your money back.

Tractor Supply's box frame disc appear to be a little heavier built, but it's $1,350. Heck, even their 6' angle iron frame one is $900.

Wish I could find a deal like that. Go for it. I would raise it up and spin the gangs and make sure you don't have a bearing or two frozen up from sitting for years.

 

[Sysop]

Your TSC must carry different/better stuff on the heavy end. Here their 6.5-7' heavy duty harrow 20x18 SKU 2128278 is only 2x2 box tube frame and is $1500... I had ruled them out as they're made smaller than everything else.

CountyLine® Heavy-Duty Disc, 7 ft. Cutting Path - Tractor Supply Co.

Here the angle iron models are same as you mentioned, but having broken enough ground engaging tools with my tractor I don't even consider them an option.

Thanks for the input, I'm 99% sure I'm walking away with it in tomorrow. Anyone else have any thoughts or experiences with one like this?

 

[downslope]

Now with pics to examine and stuff looked up, it is a 400 series Mahindra 20x18" disc. Not quite as heavy duty as the KK as the KK is 3x3 tube and the Mahindra is 2.5x3 and weighs 715lbs. Although not only do I like the adjustment better, the bracing around the lower pins on the KK are just gusseted angle where on the Mahindra it is more of the 2.5x3 box tube as gusseting...

I think $700 is a steal and I'm jumping on it come morning... Anyone disagree?

Locate me another one like that and I'll have a $100 finder's fee for you!

 

[jeff9366]

The lever adjust on pictured Disc Harrow is good because adjustment holes are in the lever, a non-structural part, rather than in the frame, which is the norm for clamp plate adjustment of Disc Harrows. See photos of 84" TSC Countyline by Tarter. Most Discs with 18" pans have same 3-bolt clamp plate adjustment.

The first time you lift your implement on tractor 3-Pt., take a mallet and 'ring' the pans. If any sound 'flat' the axle nut on that gang needs to be tightened. This is best done with an impact tool, but you can get the axle nut fairly tight with a big wrench. Limiting factor with a wrench is gang will want to turn, when it needs to be held stationary. Do not grease the axle threads; leave 'em dry.

Check for tightness fairly often at first. Once the Disc settles in, provided you have kept the axle nuts tight during the settling period, they usually remain tight.

More Disc Harrows require eventual pan or axle replacement because the axle nuts were not kept tight than for any other reason.

I inserted NORD-LOCK WASHERS from Sweden under the axle nuts of my Howse 16/18" Disc Harrow which kept the axle nuts tight almost 100% from the start. You can purchase NORD-LOCK WASHERS on eBay.

Monroe Tufline 18/20", twice as expensive as Howse 16/18", has double nuts on axles and the outboard nuts are staked in place. Photo #3.

Rear gangs look a little far apart. If you have a plateau in the field after you pass, slide rear gangs closer together. Lube frame first. I encourage movement of U-bolts with a soft-blow mallet. General rule for spread between rear gangs is pan diameter less two inches, i.e.: 16" spread between rear gangs having 18" pans.

I think $700 is a good deal on that. I'd consider that a medium or medium/light duty harrow - better than the angle iron frames but not as heavy as the heavier duty box frames on some of them. At $700 it's a no brainer.

X 2​

 

[EverythingAttachments]

The lever adjust on pictured Disc Harrow is good because adjustment holes are in the lever, a non-structural part, rather than in the frame, which is the norm for clamp plate adjustment of Disc Harrows.

The first time you lift you implement on your 3-Pt., take a mallet and 'ring' the pans. If any sound 'flat' the axle nut on that gang needs to be tightened. This is best done with an impact tool, but you can get the axle nut fairly tight with a big wrench. Limiting factor is that the gang will want to turn, when it needs to be held stationary.

Check for tightness fairly often at first. Once the Disc wears in, provided you have kept the axle nuts tight during the wear in period, they usually remain tight.

More Disc Harrows require eventual pan or axle repair because the axle nuts are not kept tight, than for any other reason.

I inserted NORD-LOCK WASHERS from Sweden under the axle nuts of my Howse 16/18" Disc Harrow and they kept the nuts tight almost 100% from the start. You can purchase NORD-LOCK WASHERS on eBay.

Good buy.

Great explanation Jeff! Tightness is critical during the break-in period.
Travis

 

[downslope]

...I inserted NORD-LOCK WASHERS from Sweden under the axle nuts of my Howse 16/18" Disc Harrow and they kept the nuts tight almost 100% from the start. You can purchase NORD-LOCK WASHERS on eBay.

Rear gangs look a little far apart. If you have a ridge in the field after you pass, slide them in a little. Lube frame first. General rule for spread on rear gang is pan diameter less two inches, i.e.: 16" space for DH with 18" pans.

Good buy.

Might be a stupid question, but are the rear blades supposed to run in-between where the fronts are running, or does it not matter?

 

[jeff9366]

Over time those generic, zinc-washed U-bolt gang hangers will warp, rust and be impossible to slide along the frame. To remove you will have to cut U-bolt with a Sawzall or a torch. Not a big deal.

Plan A: Search for eventual replacement U-bolts of greater diameter, galvanized rather than zinc washed. A welding shop that does commercial work is a good source. Another is a hardware store near salt water that sells dock building supplies.

Plan B: Substitute strong flat stock connected by bolts. Photo is a Monroe Tufline TH971820B.

 

[jeff9366]

Are the rear blades supposed to run in-between where the fronts are running, or does it not matter?

Not blades; pans, wheels or discs.

Front gangs CUT and throw dirt OUT. Rear gangs SMOOTH and throw dirt IN. Therefore, rear gangs have to be set wider than front gangs, to collect dirt to return inward. This is how soil is mixed with a 3-Pt. Tandem Disc Harrow, a type of TILLER.
{Not a type of PLOW.}

As a start, set rear gang two adjustment holes LESS AGGRESSIVELY (flatter) than front gang. If rear gang is set as aggressively as front gang, you will not accomplish much smoothing. If too flat, you will not gather soil.

Fortunately, with your lever adjust, you can easily play with various gang angle settings until you find the optimum for any day's soil moisture.


LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/308251-disc-harrow-selection-18-45-a.html?highlight=

 

[Sysop]

jeff9366, Great information and thank you so much. Your information helps take a lot of trial and error out of the equation.

I made it mine today! I'll have to go pick it up tomorrow or Friday with the trailer. I hope to get it all cleaned up this weekend and get to use it some next week. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Thanks so much for everyone's input!

 

[bjr]

I agree that's a good deal and I particularly like notched discs all around. I have a question for the fellows with the 3" square tube styled discs. Has anyone found aftermarket replacement plastic end caps. I've lost several of mine and would like some replacements. I'll stick them on them silicon glue and see it that keeps them on a little longer. bjr

 

[Sysop]

One thought for cheap and easy would be a shot of expanding foam cut off smooth, glazed over and painted.

To answer the question the "technical term" for those are "finishing caps" and you can find them many places like McMaster-Carr.

McMaster-Carr << scroll down for square

 

[C4Ranch]

Nope, mine are welded to close the tube.

 

[Sysop]

Got it unloaded off the trailer and took some of it apart and wire brushed it for a little bit of touch up paint. Jeff, I checked as you recommended (thanks again); the big axle bolts were tight as could be and all the bearings seem in great shape. All the disks ring like bells. All gangs spin free and quiet. I'm getting a load of lime pellets next week and I'll use it to churn the lime into the soil some and report back with the results.

 

[jeff9366]

I am happy it is yours and home.

Disc Harrows are one of the most satisfying and versatile implements to use.

When you put it to work the rust on the outer 2/3 of the pans will scour off in short order.