Well problems

[MarkF48]

The 230v hots can be connected either of the two blacks, polarity won't matter. The green wire is a ground which will connect back to "ground" somewhere near where your pressure switch is located (assuming your wiring has the extra wire for a ground).

 

[paulharvey]

The 230v hots can be connected either of the two blacks, polarity won't matter. The green wire is a ground which will connect back to "ground" somewhere near where your pressure switch is located (assuming your wiring has the extra wire for a ground).

Thannks, this is what I thought, but I had a small voice saying, don't wire this thing to run backwards and have to pull it agian.

 

[Carl_NH]

Glad you got it out - 100' isn't too bad to pull, just make sure you tape up the wires to the pipe every 10' or so and when dropping the pump back in the well, I like to do a "test run" meaning when the pump hits water drop another 5' and wire it up and test it for a few minutes before dropping the whole 100' in the well.

Also make sure you have an old towel to wipe off the pipe (grass, dirt etc.) before dropping it in. (The last time guys did mine 365' they replaced the pump 2x due to grass getting into the pump).

As others have said, get an ammeter - you can find Amprobe brand used for $30 or less - they are invaluable in checking these types of problems.

Last make sure your tank pressure id 30-50 switch setting tank should be @ 28 PSI. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[paulharvey]

I probably would have it back together by now but he didn't have a safety rope in it originally and I decided that in case I ever have to do it again I wanted to add a safety rope. I figured $20 worth of rope is better than risking the PVC breaking and dropping the pump into the bottom of the well.

 

[MarkF48]

While were on the subject of pumps, wondering if anyone else has their pump electrical feed from an outlet? I did this back when I put the pump in as a means to totally disconnect/isolate the control box and pump from the the rest of the house wiring when I know a thunderstorm is coming. Figured if it's not connected it's less likely to get taken out if a lightening hit causes a surge in the house wiring. The outlet is keyed to only take a special type of plug.

 

[MarkF48]

As others have said, get an ammeter - you can find Amprobe brand used for $30 or less - they are invaluable in checking these types of problems.

In the post I have with the picture of the control box, the tip of an Amprobe is just visible on the yellow wire out of the control box. I've had low water issues and the Amprobe gives a clue as to how much water is available, so it has a semi-permanent home on the wire.

 

[MarkF48]

As others have said, get an ammeter - you can find Amprobe brand used for $30 or less - they are invaluable in checking these types of problems.

In the post I have with the picture of the control box, the tip of an Amprobe is just visible on the yellow wire out of the control box. I've had low water issues and the Amprobe gives a clue as to how much water is available, so it has a semi-permanent home on the wire.
Also on the lower right side of the control box I installed a neon pilot lamp to show when the pressure switch is closed to run the pump.

 

[Carl_NH]

In the post I have with the picture of the control box, the tip of an Amprobe is just visible on the yellow wire out of the control box. I've had low water issues and the Amprobe gives a clue as to how much water is available, so it has a semi-permanent home on the wire.

Looks like you have a 3 wire 1/2 HP with capacitors and motor O/L in the box. I have my pump on a separate breaker so it's a matter of turning off the breaker - never have seen a plug set up like you have - would it not be just as easy to pull the disconnect above that plug (unless it provides power to other devices?)

Question - how can you tell the water level from the amperage? Usually the amperage at low pressure is higher then as the pump reaches shut off the amperage drops (more water being pumped at lower pressure = higher amperage).

 

[MarkF48]

Looks like you have a 3 wire 1/2 HP with capacitors and motor O/L in the box. I have my pump on a separate breaker so it's a matter of turning off the breaker - never have seen a plug set up like you have - would it not be just as easy to pull the disconnect above that plug (unless it provides power to other devices?)

Question - how can you tell the water level from the amperage? Usually the amperage at low pressure is higher then as the pump reaches shut off the amperage drops (more water being pumped at lower pressure = higher amperage).

Having once had a lightening hit many years ago that managed to jump a few places that had a pretty fair distance between, yes the disconnect does break only the power of the pump, but the gap it has when open isn't that great. Pulling the plug widens the gap considerably and hopefully lessens the susceptibility to a hit on the pump($$$$). I'm particularly paranoid about lightening and besides the pump, all electronics and computers get unplugged when a storm nears.

The amperage is more of an indicator of the volume of water the pump is delivering and if the water gets low the volume rate delivered is lower and also the amps. Mostly concluded this from observation through the day of water usage and a well that recovers not too quickly. Had the well fracked a number of years ago and probably due again.

 

[paulharvey]

Ok, so water is on. Started pulling at 9 am, finished at 4 pm. 1.5 hours going to Lowe's for pump. 30 min to Ace for rope; 30 min too Ace for 1-1/4" to 1" reducer bushing; 30 min back to Ace for some 1" coupling; some 90's.

Few observations: I sure hope those water proof butt splices are really water proof...

I pulled all 100 ft of 1" PVC riser as a single piece (it's thread sch-80 white pvc). Wasn't too bad to pull; but needed wife to walk the end back when I got around half out.

Old pump (.7 hp, 15 gpm) has smaller outside diameter then new one (3/4 hp, 10 gpm) and for some reason didn't sit as low in the casing as the old one. Kinda wonder is the old smaller diameter was in silt and sand, and new one set on top of that? It was most definitely sitting onb bottom... hope this doesn't come back to bite me in the butt, or at least doesn't for a long time. I've always had issues with sand and sediment in the well.

As a general question; what does the bottom of the casing look like. Obviously the casing is a 4" pvc pipe, probably basic DWV sch-40; but does the bottom just sit on the native sand, or is there a 4" well point on the bottom; or a piece with slits like a french drain?

Edit: actual pulling was about 15 minutes, and changing pump was maybe 30; had to do a lot of calling around, 2 TSC's, 2 Aces Hardware, Home Depot, and 2 Lowes'.

Re-edit: $369 plus tax for pump, $5.99 for water proof splices (baught two packs, just in case), 1-1/4" to 1" galvanized reducer bushing (could get one out of old pump) $5; pipe dope $5; 100 ft 1/4" nylon rope $9.99; 2 ea 1" 90' and 2 1" couplings at like $0.69 each.

Prices I got on phone; "$1,000 best case" and $950 plus $1/lf.